• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Fusible link

milit73

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
6:16 PM
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
566
Reaction score
397
Location
Vacaville, Ca
I thought I had this fixed but it blew the fuse again. I am running a 25 amp fuse. Should it be higher than 25 ? I replaced the voltage reg. and things seemed to be good until yesterday when I reved the car and it blew the fuse again? Any thoughts? Thanks 1968 Superbee 383
 
I assume you have thoroughly inspected the wire to assure it is not melted or crack and grounding out blowing the fuse yes? I mean I realize this is a bit of a stretch but reving the car with a non viscous fan will throw a lot of air back across the motor and with the hood closed maybe the air is enough to cause the wire to be pushed around causing it to ground out if there is exposed wire.
 
If it calls for a 25 amp fuse, i would stick close to what it calls for, I would check where this is connected and make sure there is no way it can ground out. Sounds like you had this problem before so im assuming you have checked all your ground connections and making sure its not putting out more then it should. Also you may want to check all wires involved with this one, any grounding would blow it.. What Brian said is a good possibility, it may have burnt thru or melted the wire somewhere before it blew the first time.
 
I thought I had this fixed but it blew the fuse again. I am running a 25 amp fuse. Should it be higher than 25 ? I replaced the voltage reg. and things seemed to be good until yesterday when I reved the car and it blew the fuse again? Any thoughts? Thanks 1968 Superbee 383

Are you using a actual "fuse" or the fuseable link.
A "fuse" will open very quickly at the rated current.
A fuseable link is really just a smaller gauge wire with flame proof insulation, it can take extra current for a short time before it overheats and melts.

The fuse/fuseable link should be sized to protect the wiring of the circuit, so the actual size depends on what the wire size/rating is?
 
I am using a fuse that powers the inside dash, lights etc. I am sure that this is not stock so I am not sure what size fuse to use. Thanks I will take a picture and add it to this link.
 
I am using a fuse that powers the inside dash, lights etc. I am sure that this is not stock so I am not sure what size fuse to use. Thanks I will take a picture and add it to this link.
If it is 10-awg wire then it could take 40-amps in free air at 60 degrees C.
The bulkhead connector connections are the weak point, only good for about 30-amps max.
 
Thanks for all of the help. I think I have something going on behind the cluster as I just put it back in. I pulled it back away from the frame grounding it with a ground wire and all is good so I will have to find the problem. Good to know that 30 amp fuse is max.
 
I'm running a 30a in my 71 bee in place of the fuse link. no problem for years
 
forgot to add it was a converted amp lead with the large style fuse
 
I think that is what is on my car now and I will put a 30 amp in the next time I work on the car. Thanks
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top