Well I have my GV kit and was wondering if anyone has some tips or advice for installing it? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Gear Vendors
- Thread starter Eric Pearson
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j-c-c-62
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Just hurry up. 
wish4hemi
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I did a GV install sometime back in 2011 or 2012. I bought mine from a guy that converted his car to a Tremec 5 speed.
At that time, I wasn't that active on the car forums. My installation had a few snags. My GV was a first generation unit with NO mounting boss to mount a factory floor shifter. I used a bracket that the previous owner had made. He supplied a crossmember that he modified, it put the tailshaft too low.
I didn't know that the bolt on yoke could be removed to allow a traditional slip yoke so I had a clumsy slip/spline drive shaft made for it. The electronics of mine were unreliable. Instead of engaging at 47 mph and disengaging below that, mine sometimes stayed engaged, leaving me in overdrive in all gears, even reverse. I didn't like the way the speedometer cable was attached either.
The general theme that I remember was that TWO dimples were needed for clearance in the trans tunnel, one at about 10:00 and the other at 2:00. You may need to dent the floor for speedometer cable clearance too.
Good luck.
At that time, I wasn't that active on the car forums. My installation had a few snags. My GV was a first generation unit with NO mounting boss to mount a factory floor shifter. I used a bracket that the previous owner had made. He supplied a crossmember that he modified, it put the tailshaft too low.
I didn't know that the bolt on yoke could be removed to allow a traditional slip yoke so I had a clumsy slip/spline drive shaft made for it. The electronics of mine were unreliable. Instead of engaging at 47 mph and disengaging below that, mine sometimes stayed engaged, leaving me in overdrive in all gears, even reverse. I didn't like the way the speedometer cable was attached either.
The general theme that I remember was that TWO dimples were needed for clearance in the trans tunnel, one at about 10:00 and the other at 2:00. You may need to dent the floor for speedometer cable clearance too.
Good luck.
Doorkicker
Well-Known Member
I put mine in about 2 years ago. I ended up using an air hammer to massage the tunnel a bit to get it to fit (66 charger, known issue). Also, be very mindful cocnenring the use of shims with the coupler... if too much the drive shaft will impact the GV and it will be unhappy pretty quickly. Other than that, it's pretty easy install franly.
Than all of you for your help
j-c-c-62
Well-Known Member
First, that is a gorgeous Charger
And I agree with your second failure assessment, caps departed for whatever reason, which led to the gross vibration which led to the rear u joint boom and separation and the loss of propulsion obviously. Interesting how the x pipe mitigated the outcome.
Nice helpful video and thanks for sharing.
j-c-c-62
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BTW, what ever became of the DS inertia(?) ring?
dfrazz
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Only 2 small dents
dfrazz
Well-Known Member
I ended up getting a new driveshaft with no ring, the old one was too dinged up to save.
j-c-c-62
Well-Known Member
I would have thought your very nice ride would have been a good candidate for a new alum DS, or is it painted black?
I added a GV to my 67 R/T this past winter. Even after relieving the trans mount holes an 1/8” to lower it, I still had to dent the tunnel way more than they stated. I have an Accurate exhaust system, which I had to substantially modify to get some clearance. Denting pipe wasn’t enough. The hard shift takes a little getting used to. Mine has introduced a driveline vibration which I haven’t been able to solve. But I drove it 225 miles on the NY State thruway today.
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To repeat, mine was a first generation unit and it had to be rebuilt before I got it.
I also had vibrations but I blamed it on the 4wd type of drive shaft that I used. Maybe for me it was a combination of the transmission angle being down too much and the drive shaft combined.
In theory, the add on overdrive is a great idea. You can maintain a heavy duty transmission and just add the additional gear. It is not that intrusive and relatively easy to install while being reversible. With column shifted automatics, it seems to fit and work well.
In reality, the overdrive ratio is not that great. The electronics of mine were unreliable. The GV office had LONG delays on replacement parts. I needed a 90 degree speedometer adapter since mine was bad. They didn't know if or when they could get them.
I also had vibrations but I blamed it on the 4wd type of drive shaft that I used. Maybe for me it was a combination of the transmission angle being down too much and the drive shaft combined.
In theory, the add on overdrive is a great idea. You can maintain a heavy duty transmission and just add the additional gear. It is not that intrusive and relatively easy to install while being reversible. With column shifted automatics, it seems to fit and work well.
In reality, the overdrive ratio is not that great. The electronics of mine were unreliable. The GV office had LONG delays on replacement parts. I needed a 90 degree speedometer adapter since mine was bad. They didn't know if or when they could get them.
Is this the same car you replaced the GV with a Tremec TKO?
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It is.
The red car has had a 2.71 8 1/4” axle, (original) 8 3/4 with 3.23 open, a 3.91 SG, 4.10 SG, a 2.76 open, back to a 3.91 SG and now a 3.55 SG.
When I had the Gear Vendors, I had the 4.10.
I friend had the GV in a 71 Challenger with a 4.56 Dana 60.
That guy….
He built the car in weird ways. He didn’t like how the 8 3/4” Sure Grips felt so he blew over $3000 for a Dana 60 with an air locker. Now this was over 20 years ago so imagine the cost to do that now. A Dana 60 for a stroked 340. Yeah.
With the GV engaged, the 4.56s acted like 3.55s. He bought the unit USED off of eBay and didn’t think to check the oil in it. He drove the car around town a couple of months but his first distance trip was approximately 550 miles. The overdrive just quit on him on the way TO the show, leaving him with deep 4.56 gears for about 800 miles of driving.
The red car has had a 2.71 8 1/4” axle, (original) 8 3/4 with 3.23 open, a 3.91 SG, 4.10 SG, a 2.76 open, back to a 3.91 SG and now a 3.55 SG.
When I had the Gear Vendors, I had the 4.10.
I friend had the GV in a 71 Challenger with a 4.56 Dana 60.
That guy….
He built the car in weird ways. He didn’t like how the 8 3/4” Sure Grips felt so he blew over $3000 for a Dana 60 with an air locker. Now this was over 20 years ago so imagine the cost to do that now. A Dana 60 for a stroked 340. Yeah.
With the GV engaged, the 4.56s acted like 3.55s. He bought the unit USED off of eBay and didn’t think to check the oil in it. He drove the car around town a couple of months but his first distance trip was approximately 550 miles. The overdrive just quit on him on the way TO the show, leaving him with deep 4.56 gears for about 800 miles of driving.
That sucks a lot of gas
ckessel
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In the video, it looked like your tach wasn't working. What was the rpm drop when the GV engaged?
dfrazz
Well-Known Member
Ya, that was before I had the tach repaired. It drops about 720 RPM. On the GVOD site you can see what the OD gear ratio equivalent is for the gears you are running. I have an 8 3/4 3.55 SG, so OD is like running 2.77s. Dodge 3-Speed Auto - Gearvendors
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