GEN 3 radiator size for Swap?

[hulmule]

My son and i are doing a father /son on a 72 Cuda. Trying to decide and get things in order to make decisions on the choice of 360 magnum or Gen 3. He started a post but this came to my mind. It has a 22" radiator opening. Can a Gen 3 motor go in with a 22" radiator? Or is this another thing to fix? car on rotisserie now and trying to look at everything and cost before i start body work. Will a gen 3 -6spd manual fit in ?

 

[MoparLeo]

Open up to 26" . Now is the best time. You will need to get your trans first and then modify the tunnel. Go Gen III . Great availability and low prices. The Magnum heads had a bad problem with cracking between the seats. Aftermarket heads are a must to even stay with a stock rebuild. Been out of production for 15 years now. Gen III, lower weight, more power, better gas mileage. Lots of aftermarket support.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Tunnel will have to be modified for a 6-speed. 22" radiator will work great. I used a 22" radiator from Griffin with an automatic and air. It never overheats even on 100 degree days in Alabama. It came with the dual cooling fans. I am running A/C and automatic with 165 degree thermostat and it never fluctuates. There is no reason to modify the core support for a larger opening, just use a quality radiator.

 

[thegreatgazoo]

I used a 26" champion with dual electric fans. Behind a 22" opening. Yea I know but I didn't want to cut into my radiator support. I also installed vintage air so I do have their condenser core mounted in front of it which hides it so you can't tell. Driving home from the Carlisle show in the rain at 95 degrees weather a/c blasting ice cold with a 195* thermostat in bumper to bumper traffic the temperature never hit 200 .
That's what is working for me

 

[hulmule]

Thanks for the updates !! , one less think to worry about. Now to figure out 360 magnum or 392. need cost vs 360

 

[Darius]

I put a 5.7 in my GTX and I used the radiator from the donor 07 Charger. Works fine and has never overheated. It IS hard getting used to the fact these motors run very hot, 205+or-. I double checked this against my '13 Charger with a 5.7 and it runs inn the exact same range as the swap does in the GTX. I did have to make a custom cover and "puke tank" though as the o7 overflow would not fit anywhere due to it's shape.

 

[70chall440]

Id like to resurrect this thread as I am looking for a radiator for my 71 Charger that I am putting a 5.7 into. I have looked at all the usual places (Champion, Griffin, Frostbite, etc.) but cannot help but notice that a stock Charger/Challenger radiator is like $60 off Rockauto and thats pretty hard to beat.

I am looking for some input from guys running GIII hemis out there.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Due to the inlet/outlet configuration you will probably have to go with a custom radiator.

 

[70chall440]

Due to the inlet/outlet configuration you will probably have to go with a custom radiator.

I don't think this is true since from the factory all the new Hemis have the lower on the drivers side, they have a hose that makes the connection (like $6 on RA). That said, there are plenty of radiators out there that have the inlet and outlet on the pass side; its just a cost thing. My point being this, if a sub $200 radiator (range from $60 to like $196) is ok for a factory car I would think it would be fine this application from a function standpoint. It may not look as sexy and would require a "custom" mounting apparatus but I am thinking it would work.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I don't think this is true since from the factory all the new Hemis have the lower on the drivers side, they have a hose that makes the connection (like $6 on RA). That said, there are plenty of radiators out there that have the inlet and outlet on the pass side; its just a cost thing. My point being this, if a sub $200 radiator (range from $60 to like $196) is ok for a factory car I would think it would be fine this application from a function standpoint. It may not look as sexy and would require a "custom" mounting apparatus but I am thinking it would work.

All I'm saying is I had to go with custom radiators on both of mine, as you already know the answer why ask the question? Long story short, you get what you pay for. On neither of mine, are the inlet or outlet in any stock location. If you intend to buy off the shelf hoses for connecting them you better consider that going in also. I'm sure there are many more options now for your situation as this swap is more common today and many new parts are available. Mine were both built over 10 years ago and 90% of everything had to be custom or modified street rod parts.

 

[70chall440]

All I'm saying is I had to go with custom radiators on both of mine, as you already know the answer why ask the question? Long story short, you get what you pay for. On neither of mine, are the inlet or outlet in any stock location. If you intend to buy off the shelf hoses for connecting them you better consider that going in also. I'm sure there are many more options now for your situation as this swap is more common today and many new parts are available. Mine were both built over 10 years ago and 90% of everything had to be custom or modified street rod parts.

Gotcha and no I don't really don't know the answer per se, I have just been doing research and seeing what others have/are using. That said, I realize when you did you cars there wasn't a lot (if any) aftermarket support like there is now. I have no doubt that when you did your cars you had to go with custom radiators to get the job done. What I am saying is that there are a number of options now and I am asking what people are using; what has worked but more importantly what hasn't worked.

As an example, Champion has a radiator specifically for Hemi swaps that fit A, B and E bodies. I have read where some love them, state they work great and yet a few others say the opposite. I've read posts by some who used the stock wedge radiator with success and others who have tried it and failed. I have read a number of posts on forums where people have used the radiator out the donor vehicle they have (i.e. 07 Charger) and swear it works well (which I guess it should since it came on 5.7 equipped car from the factory), however mounting one of those in a vintage muscle car obviously takes a little fabrication (not a bad thing).

I have a factory 26" 3 core radiator which presently I am thinking I am going to try to use along with an electric fan. I will have to deal with the inlet/outlet situation but that isn't a big deal. If it doesn't work to my liking, then I can go to plan B. I do not see any need to spend $1000+ on a radiator especially when one known to work such as a factory GIII one is less than $200. The upside to using one of those is that they can be had at any parts house, so thats a good deal. Would just have to develop the mounting.

 

[furious70]

A thing to consider is the modern car has a much more scienced out aero package and fan package. The oem rad itself may or may not cool based on your aero and fan.