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Gluing on quarter skins

mtbase

FBBO Gold Member
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I'm buying parts for the 2019 portion of my 66 Barracuda re-furb/restore. I took advantage of the Layson's Fall discount and ordered the rear quarter skin. Truthfully, I never considered gluing, preferring to cut and weld old school. The car is in storage til March, so I'm asking for opinions on how best to attach. The car is a "keeper" for me, so I don't want any regrets
 
Old school for our old cars
Gluing devalues your ride
 
Cut & Weld to fit. Is the only way to Go. Thats what im doing on my 68 Form.S , 383/4speed Notch. Resto. Both sides !
P.S.never heard of gluing. WoW

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Panel bonding is commonly used in new cars. The adhesive is amazing and very strong.
I'm not against new stuff if it is a legit improvement.
 
Panel Bonding would work pretty good on a car with a 10 year life expectancy. That is why is is used on new cars.
 
What scares me is if you get a good set of slicks to really bite, POOF! Instant eject button.
 
Has anyone here ever tried to detach a panel which was bonded ?
 
Try to remove one properly bonded. Supercars use this technique at lot, and they see 200+ mph.
 
That panel bond is STRONG. I didn't believe it until I was at a friends body shop. He glued a piece of metal tubing to a piece of sheet metal. He said "When we come back tomorrow I want to see you break them apart" The sheet metal tore but the bond never broke.
 
But, it has to be a lap joint. Not a Butt joint. O.K., you can try it and tell us how things work out!
****'s too expensive to be experimenting with our cars. I'm a scardey cat!
 
IMO panel bond should be reserved for cars that were factory bonded. The engineering may be different for overlap and amount of area bonded. I've used panel bond before and I think it's good stuff. On these old cars I would still weld full quarters on I think. It could be a good idea if your overlapping skins though. Won't have to worrry about warping.
 
I just replaced mine, God that was a lot of welding...warpage was always a worry...if I had it to do again I would use panel bond..
 
The factory welded them on, so will I. Just wondering, why is this a Gold Member discussion? I am sure that a lot of members will chime in if this was moved to General.
 
The factory welded them on, so will I. Just wondering, why is this a Gold Member discussion? I am sure that a lot of members will chime in if this was moved to General.

My mistake, but I've no idea how to move it
 
There are some areas and situation the would benefit from crash durable adhesive technology.
Cowls and the bottom of the lower quarters for example.
Someone has already mentioned corrosion.
Welds can be subject to that when exposed to moisture.
There are "weld through" primers and adhesives.

But to spot weld through a "weld through" crash durable adhesive would require very expensive spot welding equipment.
And according to the manufacture that is unnecessary for "our" typical applications.
(I've asked)
Personally on a quarter, I would consider a combination of the two.





Spot weld verses crash durable adhesive.
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The mining industry qualified 3M VHB for various bonding. I have performed environmental and shock vibration on the material and it works great. Temperatures of -40 to +85C, humidity for 70 hours, shocks of 50g in all axis, and random vibration of 6g for many hours. Not sure about panel bonding applications, but the material is robust.
 
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