Good Street set up for my 64 383??

[PT64POLARA]

So my 64 Dodges' 383 is all original with 62k on it. Put and Edelbrock carb and Mopar electonic iginition on it. Runs very well, but starting to feel a little tired. This winter it may be time to pull it and freshen it up. I was wondering what you guys would recommend for a nice street set up? I want to keep stock heads and intake on the car. So I am thinking about just a small cam upgrade, port the heads and intake, and a upgrade the valve train a little bit. Any specific cam you guys like? I want to keep it as stock looking as possible, but be around 400hp. Thanks.

 

[IQ52]

If you are looking for a power increase and you want to keep the stock intake manifold and port it, consider this:

Ported 906 head 2.14/1.81 valves: 71cfm @ .100", 150cfm @ .200", 209cfm @ .300", 257cfm @ .400", 292 cfm @ .500", 313 cfm @ .600", 321cfm @ .700"

Now install a ported stock '69 cast iron 4bbl manifold and a '69 Carter AVS: 69cfm @ .100", 131cfm @ .200", 172cfm @ .300", 187cfm @ .400", 199cfm @ .500", 203cfm @ .600", 204cfm @ .700"

Use a box stock 383 Victor and the Carter AVS: 69cfm @ .100", 143cfm @ .200", 203cfm @ .300", 234cfm @ .400", 259cfm @ .500", 273cfm @ .600", 273cfm @ .700"

It is certainly okay to use a stock intake manifold if you want that look. But sometimes people change their minds when they see how much horepower they will throw away with the stock manifold. You can gain as much as 30cfm @ .300" and 47cfm @ .400" over a stock manifold. That'll go along way in getting you to your 400hp goal.

Now I'm not recommending the 383 Victor for a mild street engine, but it does show the vast difference between a ported factory manifold and a good aftermarket aluminum manifold. I'm not the sharpest tack in the box, but I personally wouldn't hesitate to use the 383 Victor if I had the hood clearance.

 

[PT64POLARA]

If you are looking for a power increase and you want to keep the stock intake manifold and port it, consider this:

Ported 906 head 2.14/1.81 valves: 71cfm @ .100", 150cfm @ .200", 209cfm @ .300", 257cfm @ .400", 292 cfm @ .500", 313 cfm @ .600", 321cfm @ .700"

Now install a ported stock '69 cast iron 4bbl manifold and a '69 Carter AVS: 69cfm @ .100", 131cfm @ .200", 172cfm @ .300", 187cfm @ .400", 199cfm @ .500", 203cfm @ .600", 204cfm @ .700"

Use a box stock 383 Victor and the Carter AVS: 69cfm @ .100", 143cfm @ .200", 203cfm @ .300", 234cfm @ .400", 259cfm @ .500", 273cfm @ .600", 273cfm @ .700"

It is certainly okay to use a stock intake manifold if you want that look. But sometimes people change their minds when they see how much horepower they will throw away with the stock manifold. You can gain as much as 30cfm @ .300" and 47cfm @ .400" over a stock manifold. That'll go along way in getting you to your 400hp goal.

Thanks for the info! I may change the intake and just grind down the logos on it and paint it to match. It does seem like an intake would really help with power.

 

[black64]

I used a lunati 292 duration cam, performer intake, 906 heads mildly reworked, 750 cfm carb and the whole thing balanced. Used hooker headers and a 2800 stall convertor in my 383 and had great performance. The only thing I might change is use the performer RPM intake instead.

 

[PT64POLARA]

I used a lunati 292 duration cam, performer intake, 906 heads mildly reworked, 750 cfm carb and the whole thing balanced. Used hooker headers and a 2800 stall convertor in my 383 and had great performance. The only thing I might change is use the performer RPM intake instead.

Sounds like a nice set up. Doing a little cam shopping now. What gears are you running?

 

[coronet66]

I just did what u want to. The cam I used is a comp XE274H-10, I bought the package that comes with cam, lifters,springs,seal,retainers and locks also timing chain set. I was told it was the most lift I could get without altering valve train.Duration is 274-286,Lift is 488-491

 

[black64]

Sounds like a nice set up. Doing a little cam shopping now. What gears are you running?

The gears were 3:55 had all the low end I needed with those gears.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'm running low 13's @ 109 with a factory iron intake on a 440 so the intake may not be the bottleneck as most would think. Certainly, I have no where to go but up in terms of performance by changing the intake, but even as it is it's pretty impressive. This last weekend with slicks and 4.30's I went 12.80 @ 105 through the mufflers and with the air cleaner installed.

If you want 400 HP out of 383 inches you have only one choice and that's to rev it higher, and with that you will need a bigger cam, more compression and deeper gears. Or you can drop in a 440 crank and rods and make a low block 426 and get to your target relying on more cubes without the stress of high RPM. The last 383 I ran was in my 68 RR and it was impressive for what little was done to it. It was maybe 400 HP at the crank and pushed 3700 lbs to a 12.65 @ 107 with 4.88's and slicks. Same car with a DP4B and a factory AVS from a 440 it went 12.98 @ 104.

Most important is to match the cam with your compression and that should be decided on what fuel you want to run. My iron head 440 is 10.1:1 and has 190 PSI of cylinder pressure and will not run on pump 91 without pinging under high loads. However if I had 9.5:1 CR I might get away with it.

For any street / strip BB MoPar I recommend using the iron adjustable rockers and 3/8" push rods, or I suppose you can use a quality roller tip rocker as long as it doesn't deflect under higher valve spring pressures. Oiling system mods should include a windage tray. If you use iron heads be sure and pocket port them and have a proper three angle valve job done. Not much reason to put big valves unless you plan to do a lot of port work.