Green axle bearing collar

[Mysons68 dart]

Got a set of Green axle bearings from doctor diff A while back had my I axles shortened and resplined just got those back whet to install the bearings they fit fine but the collars are really tight .
I am a maintenance mechanic and have installed hundreds of barings high speed low speed repaired many shafts and I know that a collars like that should only be 2 to 3 thousands under size but These collars are 8 thousands undersize, Going to call Cas tomorrow but if you guys have any information for me today I would appreciate it.

 

[tonysrt]

Why do we always run into a problem when help is never around? I know I always have problems on Friday night and have to wait till Monday to reach out for help.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Hmm, never had that problem. Maybe a bad batch? You could use a brake cylinder hone and get them to size.

 

[Mysons68 dart]

Hmm, never had that problem. Maybe a bad batch? You could use a brake cylinder hone and get them to size.

My thoughts exactly 5.7 just talked to sgbarracuda and roy thinks .004 to .005 i was thinking .003 to 4 welp better get to honin cause the only thing my sm machine shop dosen't have is a lathe.

 

[5.7 hemi]

At least you’ll get it done and be able to move on instead of waiting for new collars to show up.

 

[bm02tj]

put the axles in the freezer and collars in the sun or oven
put it together with your press tomorrow unless you have dry ice

 

[Ron H]

While checking my rear brakes come to find metal shavings on the right rear wheel. Installed green's on my '63 Plymouth about 3 years ago (has '65 Coronet axles/housing). Odd that I didn't hear anything akin to bearing noises. So wondering if the bearings were crap or issues with the installation. Left looks fine. If I had my choice, I'd have stayed with the original bearings but too late now unless I can find the old adjuster plate. Have read a lot of varying comments on green bearings from great to crap! Anyway have to replace the bearings...if anyone has run into what I'm describing great to hear. Thanks

 

[RJRENTON]

Got a set of Green axle bearings from doctor diff A while back had my I axles shortened and resplined just got those back whet to install the bearings they fit fine but the collars are really tight .
I am a maintenance mechanic and have installed hundreds of barings high speed low speed repaired many shafts and I know that a collars like that should only be 2 to 3 thousands under size but These collars are 8 thousands undersize, Going to call Cas tomorrow but if you guys have any information for me today I would appreciate it.

The old rule of thumb (millwrights thumb) that is generally adhered to is: shrink fitting a retainer collar or retainer ring, or a bearing race, the ID is generally 0.0005" - 0.001" less per inch of shaft OD. The collar is heated (using an induction bearing heater) a minimum of 350°F - 400°F (use a Templ Stick) to expand it uniformly and install the collar on the shaft forthwith b4 it cools off. Do not use any lubricant or anti seize material on the shaft where the collar is to reside. If, at a later date, the collar or retainer ring is to be removed, it will need to be cut off with an abrasive cut off wheel not a torch. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[Ron H]

The old rule of thumb (millwrights thumb) that is generally adhered to is: shrink fitting a retainer collar or retainer ring, or a bearing race, the ID is generally 0.0005" - 0.001" less per inch of shaft OD. The collar is heated (using an induction bearing heater) a minimum of 350°F - 400°F (use a Templ Stick) to expand it uniformly and install the collar on the shaft forthwith b4 it cools off. Do not use any lubricant or anti seize material on the shaft where the collar is to reside. If, at a later date, the collar or retainer ring is to be removed, it will need to be cut off with an abrasive cut off wheel not a torch. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

Thanks - I had wondered if the shop that pressed the collar on for me might a set it wrong...

 

[bm02tj]

Expansion and contraction is huge
When I was still selling part a customer was upset because no one would press a ring gear on
When I explained how to heat and install he looked at me like I was nuts
Came back the next day to tell me how big it got
So heat is ticket with cold if you wish

 

[Ron H]

Expansion and contraction is huge
When I was still selling part a customer was upset because no one would press a ring gear on
When I explained how to heat and install he looked at me like I was nuts
Came back the next day to tell me how big it got
So heat is ticket with cold if you wish

I don't have a press so over the years have had shops with one do collar install. Always worked fine but about to pull my axle in a minute here to see what's causing the chips and shavings...not what I had in mind for today's chores. Our two nice late car shows are next week and week and about it for around here. Hope I can do the repair in time.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Another thing to consider which most people don’t.....axle housing bent. Every single housing I’ve narrowed has had some bend to it (8 3/4). They will eat the Green bearings up! The thicker Dana 60’s (tubes) not so much. May want to check housing to see if it’s straight.

 

[RJRENTON]

Ron,
As I mentioned, the collar is expanded to be able to be slipped in place to its intended location (which should have been marked ahead of time). Generally, retaining collars / retaining rings are not pressed on but shrink fitted to insure it not moving. Bearing races are generally pressed in or lightly driven in, like tapered roller bearing's cups for example, front wheel bearing assemblies. Just my opinion of course.
In addition, this Forum has discussed the pro's and con's of Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters vs Green non adjustable axle bearing assemblies. There are many proponents of the Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters as well as the Green bearing assemblies. Its roughly 50% both ways....my opinion is: i use the Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters in my car as well as Timken froht wheel bearings as this is what Mopar designed and installed. You pay your money and take your choice.....just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[Dipstick]

The retaining collars for both the original and Green bearings are intended to be pressed on.

 

[RJRENTON]

The retaining collars for both the original and Green bearings are intended to be pressed on.

Do you know the difference between shrink fitting and press fitting? In case you do not, shrink fitting is expanding the fitting, collar or bearing race uniformly, by heat, to allow it to grow in I.D., So it will slide over the shaft to its intended location. Once it cools off it will not move. Press fitting is using a mechanical means, hydraulic press or brute force and an arbor or hammer and drift pin to force the collar, fitting or bearing race to it's intended location. With this method, you run the risk of damage to part being driven in place, especially if its a high carbon steel composition bearing race, which is likely to crack. For my preferences, the old Army method of "Brute Force and Blind Ignorance" has no place in my work. Its simply easier to use the shrink fit method. Use what ever method you like. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[Dipstick]

Like many things, to each his own but the FSM shows pressing the collar and that's the way just about any shop does it; no epidemic of "cracking".

 

[RJRENTON]

I've seen and used this tool....once. i realise it draws the bearing jn place evenly by turning the draw bolts....but how many of us "shade tree mechanics" have this tool at their disposal? I do not. What the FSM pix shows is the cup and cone being drawn on the axle. The component behind the bearing cone assembly is part of the pressing arbor that pushes the cone into position. Not shown is the retaining ring that holds the bearing cone in place. This method along with the heat to expand method all but eliminates damage to the components.
I would hazard a guess that most guys do not have this tool and use a hammer and drift pin to put the bearing cone and retaining collar in place. My choice is to heat the components to expand them for a slip fit installation....so...who is correct? Its up to to installer to determine the "best way"....just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[khryslerkid]

Lot's of over thinking going on...just press the sucker on. Biggest thing is to never make contact with the outer part of the bearing, especially a sealed bearing. The locking collars are mostly of a soft material that has no problem expanding. If it won't start at all there might be a error in manufacturing but that's unlikely. Simple procedure with a shop press.

Go ahead and heat up a sealed bearing and see what happens to the grease and the seal. Never heard of such a thing.

 

[dadsbee]

 

[Dipstick]

This method along with the heat to expand method all but eliminates damage to the components.

Why do you keep assuming that the components are "damaged" during installation? No evidence to support that.