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Hard Pedal

The one with the MC is cheaper at $199. The same one with no MC is $249. I don't understand?
 
The one with the MC is cheaper at $199. The same one with no MC is $249. I don't understand?
The $199.00 one says it is for 70-74 cars while the $249.00 one says for 1966-70 B body cars. I was not aware that there was a difference but there may be. They appear to be the same. Maybe one of the vendors can explain it.
 
I just got my tranny back and it is now in place. Tomorrow I will remove the power booster to see if auto zone will let me return it. Then I will purchase the correct dual ballast booster for disc brakes. Small steps.
 
The power booster is out. I took it back and was able to get a refund. Now I have to make some phone calls to see which is the best direction to acquire the right booster.
 
Yatzee what is a hydro boost system? Who makes it and what is the cost? I am just enquiring for now until I get the information needed on Monday.
This one is off 2000 Ford Mustang
Dodge , ford, chevt disel trucks
Chevy Astro Vans
just it look, $100 max for one junkyard.

Engine-bay.jpg
 
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Did you ever resolve this issue? Curious on your findings.
 
As stated I bought the booster from Dr. Diff and it fit just right. The results are less efficient that I had hoped for. It does not matter how many times I bleed the brakes, it just does not help. The pedal is still hard and the brakes are just not up to my standard. Sad!
 
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If this was already suggested forgive me but make absolutely sure your rear drums are properly adjusted...too loose/too tight can screw up the whole system..some time ago my pedal would get progressively squishier, I would re-bleed, be fine and after about a week my pedal would start sinking again(pedal dropping to the floor at 40mph--NOT cool!!) Turns out the rear drums were too loose...tightened 'em up and no problems since...too tight can give a hard pedal. Worth a look...and free if you can do it yourself!
 
I wonder if this is a case of the actuation rod being too long? I'd place a help email to Dr Diff for any other ideas.
 
I will take a look at the rear brakes again. I like the free stuff. Dr. Diff suggested I buy another MC. I already bought two. They all look the same to me. What if a take one that I already have and drill a larger hole in it? Will that allow more fluid to flow through the lines? That sounds too easy. Maybe someone can suggest if these MC's can be modified?
 
I will take a look at the rear brakes again. I like the free stuff. Dr. Diff suggested I buy another MC. I already bought two. They all look the same to me. What if a take one that I already have and drill a larger hole in it? Will that allow more fluid to flow through the lines? That sounds too easy. Maybe someone can suggest if these MC's can be modified?
Yeah, when I had the problem everybody swore it was the master cylinder too including myself... Tried a new one and still had the problem... may or may not be your issue, but worth a look. Personally I don't know that I would try drilling any holes in the master, you shouldn't have to do that to get it to work properly
 
I adjusted the rear drums today, but did not get a chance to take it out as it was raining. Maybe tomorrow.
 
I was thinking, is it possible the old brake lines are restricting the flow in some way? Or maybe the old proportioning valves? When I bleed the brakes I get a moderate flow in the rear, but a gusher in the front calipers. Does that mean anything? Should it be gushing in the rear also?
 
So here we are two years later me with the same issue what did you do bro I'm sitting here going what the? With a car with the same problem if you're out there please respond
 
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