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Has anybody here switched to a newer heater control valve?

AZMoparJoe

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I’m beyond tired of the factory A/C style heater control valves on these 66-70 b-bodies. The design of it is completely ridiculous to me, as the only seal that blocks coolant flow is a small rubber “washer”. The most recent one I used was an NOS piece, and it failed. Originality and/or factory appearance is not a concern of mine, as the car has a 451 stroker, and is modified in appearance. Has anybody here converted to a later B-body style valve, such as H2994? I’d obviously need a longer cable to actuate it. Below is a photo of what I’m thinking of converting to.

IMG_6321.jpeg
 
I’m beyond tired of the factory A/C style heater control valves on these 66-70 b-bodies. The design of it is completely ridiculous to me, as the only seal that blocks coolant flow is a small rubber “washer”. The most recent one I used was an NOS piece, and it failed. Originality and/or factory appearance is not a concern of mine, as the car has a 451 stroker, and is modified in appearance. Has anybody here converted to a later B-body style valve, such as H2994? I’d obviously need a longer cable to actuate it. Below is a photo of what I’m thinking of converting to.

View attachment 1969807
Go for it!
Mike
 
The design of it is completely ridiculous to me, as the only seal that blocks coolant flow is a small rubber “washer”
Agreed.

Anyone use something different for non a/c?
Actually find it to work.

I've seen people use plumbing valves for non a/c.
 
I bought a generic valve used for motor homes.

It was made of engineering plastic (a kind of black nylon) and it was only 12 bucks.

It works great, but the swing of the actuating lever is quite a bit longer than the factory one, and it can only be operated about 80%, meaning I have to manually fully open or close it.

...at least until I figure out a mod.
 
I bought a generic valve used for motor homes.

It was made of engineering plastic (a kind of black nylon) and it was only 12 bucks.

It works great, but the swing of the actuating lever is quite a bit longer than the factory one, and it can only be operated about 80%, meaning I have to manually fully open or close it.

...at least until I figure out a mod.
Make a bellcrank device with a 1.2 advantage to utilize the full throw of the valve.
 
To the ones that ARE using a different heater control valve than factory, what did you do with the hole in the firewall that accommodated the original valve. I’m thinking of just making a block off plate.
 
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