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Having an issue with my 64

Red63440

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most of you know I’ve been working on my 64 fury and it’s gotten to the point where it’s ready to be used. Last fall the car developed an issue with just running. It starts fine. It runs for about 30 to 40 seconds and then just quits. With the help of Don , we switched carburetors just to make sure that it wasn’t an issue with the carburetor. My carburetor ran fine on his car and his carburetor didn’t make any difference on mine. It appears that it’s losing vacuum, which would explain why there’s an issue with the power brakes. I guess the question I have to ask is after a run that I made to get my head pipes made, and installed on the car. I found that I had lost oil, but at the same time it didn’t end up in my water and I ended up with no coolant in my oil. So my question is if you end up with a leak in your intake pan gasket what can the outcome be? If the gasket is leaking Could it lose vacuum and could it pull oil from the engine. The secondary issue I noticed was the fact that the car seemed to overheat. It’s got a new water pump and a newer aluminum radiator new thermostat new hoses so the only thing I could come up with would be if that intake manifold gasket is leaking then it could be running lean, which could cause an overheating issue. I’d like to say everything‘s been checked but apparently it hasn’t because I still have this issue. I just don’t have a clue where to look right now it’s got new wires. Everything is new granted the engine is a low mileage used 1970 383, the heads are also fresh with new rocker assemblies and new pushrods. The fuel pump has been checked. There’s plenty of fuel, filter has been checked, new plugs are installed. It was running fine and all of a sudden it just turned to **** really need some help on this one guys.
 
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You can feather the engine with the gas pedal once it’s running, but if you leave off on the accelerator it dies. That also wouldn’t explain the oil usage.
 
Try plugging the brake booster hose?
 
I plugged all (3) vacuum hoses with no change.
 
Pull the valve covers and make sure all 16 rockers are working correctly. If ok run a compression test or a leak down test.
 
Once it warms up, I’ll pull the valve covers it takes about 30 to 40 seconds for the vacuum to leak down using a gauge I think the gauge read 12 inches of vacuum.
 
I think you may be trying to chase 2 or 3 problems all at the same time. First I'd like to know how much oil the engine lost in that short drive. Even if it's close to a quart with no oil in the coolant I'd not worry about that for the moment. Likewise if there's no increase in oil level (from coolant getting into the oil pan) ignore that too for the time being. I'm more concerned about if you have spark after the engine quits? It's obvious by what you say that the engine is CAPABLE of running properly. If it isn't flooding itself for some reason I'd bet on a spark problem.
 
question is if you end up with a leak in your intake pan gasket what can the outcome be? If the gasket is leaking Could it lose vacuum and could it pull oil from the engine.
Yes this can be a oil loss problem. But you should see blue /gray smoke from the tail pipes.
Remember water is heavier than oil. Did you pull the drain plug? Water will be the first to come out.
 
Bad intake gasket could cause vacuum leak and siphon oil out of lifter valley.
 
Yes this can be a oil loss problem. But you should see blue /gray smoke from the tail pipes.
Remember water is heavier than oil. Did you pull the drain plug? Water will be the first to come out.
No water in the oil and I was way too busy trying to keep it running to watch the rear view mirror.
 
Bad intake gasket could cause vacuum leak and siphon oil out of lifter valley.
Could it cause over heating, no water loss in the radiator.
 
Overheating can be caused by so many things....[ assuming rad is not blocked ]
- rust scale in the water jackets
- retarded ign timing
- lean mixture
- too much clearance between w/pump blades & pump body. Water escapes past the gap, does not get captured to pump through the block
- & many more.

When the engine quits after 30-40 secs: watch the carb pri throttle bores while you activate the throttle arm; you should see fuel squirt into each bore from the acc pump nozzle. No squirt indicates no fuel in the carb. Make sure the nozzle DOES squirt fuel when the carb has fuel.
 
This is a mixed bag of symptoms and it is confusing as to what is really going on. A car wont overheat in 30-40 seconds, so I assume this was an issue before it had the no-run problem. Same for the oil usage. Perhaps you could clarify the timeline.

If I was to throw a wild guess without further clarification, I would say you have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold that has gotten worse creating the run problem. When the leak was smaller it may have caused the oil use and contributed to overheating.
 
Not quite what I said.

Coil???? Not bad coil. Lol
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This is a mixed bag of symptoms and it is confusing as to what is really going on. A car wont overheat in 30-40 seconds, so I assume this was an issue before it had the no-run problem. Same for the oil usage. Perhaps you could clarify the timeline.

If I was to throw a wild guess without further clarification, I would say you have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold that has gotten worse creating the run problem. When the leak was smaller it may have caused the oil use and contributed to overheating.
The car had been run with no issues and then one day out in the driveway I reved the engine up not over maybe 3000 RPM and I noticed that the problem got worse after that it would still start. It would still idle fine but toward the end, when I drove it home from having the head pipes put on it is when it overheated. Let me state that the bathtub gasket had been on that engine before with a different intake. I put sealant on it and put it back on this newer engine with the newer heads. My thought is is it some of the sealant has been sucked into the engine and blown back out, but by doing that it’s allowed a vacuum leak. It’s also allowed the oil to be pulled out of the oil valley and it’s also allowed the engine or caused the engine to run lean which is mentioned in another post. It all comes up to the perfect storm. The water pump, housing and correct thermostat is brand new. It’s an aluminum high-performance unit prior to this issue car ran perfect. As far as cooling thermostat opening and closing no high temperatures everything was fine it all hinges on this one problem which like I said I think it’s coming from a bad bathtub gasket. I have a new one so once the weather warms up I’m going to change it .
 
This is a mixed bag of symptoms and it is confusing as to what is really going on. A car wont overheat in 30-40 seconds, so I assume this was an issue before it had the no-run problem. Same for the oil usage. Perhaps you could clarify the timeline.

If I was to throw a wild guess without further clarification, I would say you have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold that has gotten worse creating the run problem. When the leak was smaller it may have caused the oil use and contributed to overheating.
This was noticed over a 25/30 min drive from the muffler shop. Air temps were cool, radiator is fairly new, new hoses, water pump and thermostat. NO wiring changes were made from the first start of this install until this problem was noticed which was an approximate eight month period.
The engine turned over maybe three revolutions and started right up on the first start up no oil usage no abnormal noises no leakage, coolant flow to the radiator could be seen fluctuating with the opening and closing of the thermostat. Plenty of airflow, mechanical pump on the water pump, mechanical fan no electric fan. It just got so the end of the year I was so frustrated with it and with everything else that was going on I was just I was just done with it. I ended up going in for surgery right after Christmas and I didn’t really know what the outcome was gonna be , and at that point really didn’t care. If I had to pick one item that could’ve changed everything that I’m seeing right now I would have to say it’s the intake manifold gasket.
 
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