Heat Shrink End Cap for Door Switch?

[JR_Charger]

One of my door switches has a rubber coating on it, but the other is missing -

I found these end caps on eBay -

They're not quite right but they might shrink down o.k. The thing is, they all ship from China, and I'd rather not pay $6-8 for something that only costs pennies to make. There's got to be something similar or better in the U.S., I just haven't hit on the magical search term yet. Any ideas? Someone out there must have a box of these sitting in their work van.

 

[kiwigtx]

One of my door switches has a rubber coating on it, but the other is missing -

View attachment 1570225

I found these end caps on eBay -

View attachment 1570226

They're not quite right but they might shrink down o.k. The thing is, they all ship from China, and I'd rather not pay $6-8 for something that only costs pennies to make. There's got to be something similar or better in the U.S., I just haven't hit on the magical search term yet. Any ideas? Someone out there must have a box of these sitting in there work van.

From my account on my local Electrical Supply company here in New Zealand.

They might cost more than a few pennies to make, but they are good.

I used some on the end of the seat levers of my truck.....before installing a set of OE seats.

Try Raychem as the brand search local to you. I use their stuff all the time.
I have a really big one to replace the worn out rubber handle grip on my 3-ton floor jack....just waiting to bring the 'group' blow torch home to shrink it on.

 

[kiwigtx]

 

[kiwigtx]

Just be sure to cut off any excess glue that runs out during the heating process....and don't burn the stuff while heating.

An electric heat gun would be best for the smaller shrinks.

 

[493 Mike]

As an alternative idea, I have found that the liquid rubber that comes in a can (marketed as a coating for pliers handles) works well for plug wire holders (on bare steel), recoating on valve cover wire clips, hood latch handles, window glass stops, etc.
Mike

 

[moparedtn]

As an alternative idea, I have found that the liquid rubber that comes in a can (marketed as a coating for pliers handles) works well for plug wire holders (on bare steel), recoating on valve cover wire clips, hood latch handles, window glass stops, etc.
Mike

Plasti Dip. Yeah, some knuckleheads "dip" their entire cars in the stuff these days...

 

[R413]

Those switches don’t have a rubber end, the metal end is factory.

 

[dadsbee]

They're ground wires, so Chrysler certainly didn't waste any money putting an insulated wire spade down there. That said, I find them with tape on them all the time from the last guy in there....

 

[JR_Charger]

Those switches don’t have a rubber end, the metal end is factory.

Here's the driver's side -

Passenger side again -

The driver's side switch certainly looks factory. Could it be a replacement switch? At any rate, if the passenger side is correct I won't bother looking for an end cap to shrink over it.

 

[R413]

What year is your Charger? Jamb doesn’t look like a 66-70.

you may have a replacement switch, or the factory had a batch with a rubber tip and you got one of each. We will never know.

most mopars (meaning millions of cars) came with metal ends on the switches.

 

[RemCharger]

Here's a replacement I had laying around

 

[493 Mike]

As stated above, all the jamb switches I have ever seen were bare but, a rubber cap/covering would be easier on the paint.
Mike

 

[JR_Charger]

What year is your Charger? Jamb doesn’t look like a 66-70.

you may have a replacement switch, or the factory had a batch with a rubber tip and you got one of each. We will never know.

most mopars (meaning millions of cars) came with metal ends on the switches.

72.

You're right, I'll likely never know what happened but the most likely explanation is that the driver side switch wore out and the one with the rubberized end is a replacement.