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Help bleeding brakes

I'm so EFFING Peed. No fluid out rear port still. Bench Bled great. Bleeding rear of car great. Bleed front no go. No fluid coming from rear port again. WTF Only spits little bits of fluid.
 
Wow. Good luck. I went to the car show Sun.
and pedal sank to the floor. Guess what I need. A master cylinder. Man I am scared after all your problems.
 
Got it off same issue as before So much for wanting to drive it next week

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From your recent photos, the MC piston is hung up again. The way those things work, of course your not getting fluid through the rear pot, since the pistons need full travel.

You'll hate reading this, but...if you want it done right, do it yourself!! There's something wrong inside the master, dirt, wrong part, or just rough assembly.
Suggest you get a parts diagram for THAT particular MC. Then, bust the MC down. Simple...pull the snap ring...and carefully use low air pressure, at each port to blow the pistons and other parts out. Look at each part carefully, make sure everything is clean, and using the diagram, re-assemble it. If some part does not seem to fit right, take a harder look why.

The bore in the master needs to be fairly good shape, too. When it's right, the rear piston should be sitting against the snap ring...and each time pistons are moved in the bore, it should return against the ring.
 
That is my next step. My Arthritis is really bad today so I will mess with it later in the week. Thanks
 
I'm going to try a different Master Cyl. I've got one coming from Mancini Racing. If it dosen't bind up I know it's the Master Cyl. If the new one does the same thing then the Booster is maybe forcing the piston in too far and binding it up.
 
While I'm waiting for the new Master Cylinder to arrive. I found another company that Rebuilds Boosters and Master Cylinders. I'm thinking about contacting them about this issue to see if they can help me. Has anyone used them before. Karps brake service

Power Brake Boosters
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Karps Power Brake Service
Rebuilding, Remanufacturing, Restoration & Sleeving
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(909) 985-0800
(909) 985-5120 fax

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Karps Power Brake Service 66 N. Central Ave Upland, CA 91786 U.S.A. (909)985-0800

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Nope, not me.

But, I have a poor opinion about 'rebuilders'.

My personal fix was buying an actual new MC from Napa, even able to get the correct application for my converted set-up.
The 'fix' was replacing a rebuilt MC, that was supposed to be the right one. Don't know who the damn drunk was who 'rebuilt' that MC, but had to guess from dirt, or the like, it contaminated my entire new system. Also noticed when I pulled that MC, the snap ring just inside the bore was the wrong size. Suppose I (being real stupid) assumed it was right, as an excuse for not finding that when I mounted it. The snap ring was too big, and pretty much had to be forced into the groove. No telling what the rest of the piece of junk looked like inside.
That MC, off the car, went straight to the trash can!

Funny thing is...it's real easy to overhaul one of those things, if you've got the right parts.
 
Put the Master Cylinder I got from Mancini Racing on. Got fluid to the front brakes now. Yea. Finish bleeding tomorrow. The Master Cyl on the car is from Mancini. One on Dryer is the one I've been having problems with.

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Did you get your Master Cylinder rebuilt? I did not know you could do that, if so if rebuilds them?
 
I sent the Master Cyl out the first time to get rebuilt. Whe I got it back ad put it o the car the rear piston got stuck in the bore. So I sent it back. When I got it back followed the Service manual on bench bleeding like the last time and put it on car and as soon as you step on brak e pedal piston for front disc brakes got stuck again. So I said ef it and got Mancini Racing cast iron one. When I get a chance I will take the other one apart. You can do it yourself they make kits to do it. Try contacting Karps Brake Service. I sent my Calipers, Booster, Brake valve and Master Cyl to someone else and couldn't get the Master cyl to work right. All other items came out ok.
 
Sounds like a painful experience. Just switched from manual to disc. Hope I don't encounter similar problems. If I do - you'll be the first one I ask.....
 
Put the Master Cylinder I got from Mancini Racing on. Got fluid to the front brakes now. Yea. Finish bleeding tomorrow. The Master Cyl on the car is from Mancini. One on Dryer is the one I've been having problems with.

Good deal! Glad to hear your getting it fixed.

Hey, GetX'd...Main thing on these brake conversions is to get the correct master for the particular application. On mine, went to disc/drum, manual brakes...so, at Napa, ordered a new master for a 67 (I think) Coronet, since it's a B body. Just had to find the right year master, for my type of brake set-up...manual, power, etc. Think I paid around $45 for it. This was for my 64 Fury.
Also must have the right distribution block, when going to disc/drum.
 
I found a couple of leaks. I thought I had the lines tight But I had to tighten up one to the right rear wheel and one to the brake valve. Waiting for evening so it's a little cooler in Garage Bleed a little more and it should be good. Make sure you bench Bleed Master before putting on car
 
Make sure you bench Bleed Master before putting on car

I never really understood why to do this before putting it on and then doing it after at the four corners. My main thing is getting fluid on my freshly painted surface is all. If I have to, guess I'll have to take it off and do it.
 
Good luck. Have been following this since I just put on a new master cylinder myself.
 
Personally, I've done the master both ways, with good results. Just takes good parts. Main thing is to get fluid into both sections of the master, if a dual type.

My set-up is manual disc/drum, with adjustable valve to the rear.

First rebuilt master I put on my 64 was a piece of junk. Crap inside it contaminated my then new (besides the master) system.

Also wound up with a blockage at the rear brake hose, and fluid that looked like dirty water. Figured was going to have a time flushing the system. But, while back opened all my hard lines, and drained all the fluid out, including at the rear wheel cylinders. Even blew out all the rear lines with low air pressure. Front disc were good.

Surprised me how quick I was able to bleed the rear system. Just used one of the one man bleeding cups, and real slowly worked the brake pedal, getting air out, fluid in. Only took around ten minutes.
 
Well got the car off the jackstands Took it for a drive It stops I have a steering issue now So it was a short trip.
 
Heck yeah! We having fun yet?

Just hope I get mine going down the road...if I live long enough.
 
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