HELP!!!! Starting Issues!!

[74Satellite]

Ok I have 3 hours till my Medical Terminology final and for the first time ever my car wont run.

Vehicle in question: 1974 Plymouth Satellite 225/904

here is scenario:

First sign of any problems was when I was backing it into the parking space yesterday the engine kind of stumbled a little bit, nothing that alarmed me but was like "That was strange"

This morning I get in, pump the pedal and hit the key...it fired right up at high idle but quickly idled down and died (Less than 2 seconds). With messing with the pedal I was able to get it to fire up 3 more times and no matter what I did with the gas pedal or the carb it quickly idled down and died again. Now it just cranks and doesnt even attempt to fire.

Anyone have any ideas....I have about 3 hours to get this fixed as of 10:00 AM CST.

 

[74Satellite]

also it has a 1/2 tank of gas so its not out of fuel

 

[72Satellite440]

That sucks-3things to make her run are spark-fuel-air

Pull a spark plug out with the wire still atatched and see if theres spark when you crank

...Im not sure if you have someone that can watch while you crank
((If theres no spark Id clean the contacts in the distributor with some steel wool))

If you have a ok spark then its most likely a fuel issue (pump or clogged filter)

 

[72Satellite440]

Worst case scenario- call a taxi-fix this later-

 

[74Satellite]

That sucks-3things to make her run are spark-fuel-air

Pull a spark plug out with the wire still atatched and see if theres spark when you crank

...Im not sure if you have someone that can watch while you crank
((If theres no spark Id clean the contacts in the distributor with some steel wool))

If you have a ok spark then its most likely a fuel issue (pump or clogged filter)

Got my neighbor to hit the key..I have spark...so that means fuel problem then? Would it starting and then quickly dieing be a symptom of a failing fuel pump...and then now that it wont start at all be that its failed completely?

Could it be something more sinister like a bad head gasket?

 

[72Satellite440]

To check:
I think in ur /6 theres a fuel filter inbetween the pump and carb-Id unhook after the filter and see when you crank a bit that theres fuel coming out-

at least you will know theres the problem


Ive read a few articles of the 1 brl carbs possibly leaking internally- may be time to upgrade -

"One thing I noticed about the 1 bbl holleys is the carb body screws like to get loose, which lets fuel leak everywhere. Of corse, you can only tighten the carb body screws with the carb off the manifold, because some genious decided to put the heads on the bottom of the carb Might want to try snugging those up first."
"

 

[74Satellite]

To check:
I think in ur /6 theres a fuel filter inbetween the pump and carb-Id unhook after the filter and see when you crank a bit that theres fuel coming out-

at least you will know theres the problem

Yep, the filter is right on top about 8 inches from the carb. So if I disconnect carb side of filter and hit key..if fuel pours out then pump is working.

Will the fuel pump off a 74 318 work on the slant six? They look pretty darn close.

 

[brandon64]

pull the air cleaner off and look down the carb while pumping the gas and see if any fuel is squirting in when you pump it.

 

[brandon64]

The pump arm is different on the 318

 

[74Satellite]

its getting fuel into carb when I pump gas...I am strating to think its the head gasket...cause when it does try to run its smoking like crazy like a grey smoke...not blue, not black or white..but a grey...and I just pulled the radiator cap off and its foaming inside the radiator

 

[74Satellite]

any other way to confirm a blown head gasket? Oil is clean, oil cap is clean...but antifreeze is murky and foaming...so I think oil is getting into the antifreeze??? Anyone confirm or deny a blown gasket? And if so, someone point me to a writeup on head replacement for the 225 slant six?

 

[moparstuart]

most auto parts stores will selll you a head gasket leak down detector kit

 

[shadango]

any other way to confirm a blown head gasket? Oil is clean, oil cap is clean...but antifreeze is murky and foaming...so I think oil is getting into the antifreeze??? Anyone confirm or deny a blown gasket? And if so, someone point me to a writeup on head replacement for the 225 slant six?

Do you have a compression tester gauge? Remove spark plugs, screw tester into one of the holes and crank...repeat for each cylinder.....see what the numbers look like.

I cant see how a head gasket could be OK and fine one minute then be blown just after sitting.

You sure you have GOOD spark? Do you have a spare ecu and/or ballast and/or coil to swap in and try?

 

[74Satellite]

I just picked up a compression tester from a parts store.. I have pulled out ALL 6 spark plugs and screwed the tester into the 1st hole. Dont have anyone to help me at the moment to read gauge while cranking. How long do you crank? The engine turns over extremely fast without the spark plugs in.

 

[brandon64]

any other way to confirm a blown head gasket? Oil is clean, oil cap is clean...but antifreeze is murky and foaming...so I think oil is getting into the antifreeze??? Anyone confirm or deny a blown gasket? And if so, someone point me to a writeup on head replacement for the 225 slant six?

several ways to confirm head gasket. 1: pull all of the plugs and see if any of them have antifreeze on them. 2: leave the rad cap off and crank it, usually if the gasket is blown coolant will shoot out when cranking. 3: as mentioned above you could do a compression test or a cyl leak down test if you have the proper equipment.

Check for moisture in the tail pipe, you said it was smoking grey you may have just flooded it somehow. Usually it will smoke white if it is burning coolant.

 

[brandon64]

I just picked up a compression tester from a parts store.. I have pulled out ALL 6 spark plugs and screwed the tester into the 1st hole. Dont have anyone to help me at the moment to read gauge while cranking. How long do you crank? The engine turns over extremely fast without the spark plugs in.

The gauge should keep the reading on there until you let the pressure out. Crank the engine over until the reading on the gauge quits rising. It should take about 3 or 4 revolutions. You should have at least 100 psi in each cyl. Cyl 1 and cyl 6 are the most likely to blow.

 

[74Satellite]

several ways to confirm head gasket. 1: pull all of the plugs and see if any of them have antifreeze on them. 2: leave the rad cap off and crank it, usually if the gasket is blown coolant will shoot out when cranking. 3: as mentioned above you could do a compression test or a cyl leak down test if you have the proper equipment.

Check for moisture in the tail pipe, you said it was smoking grey you may have just flooded it somehow. Usually it will smoke white if it is burning coolant.

Pulled all the plugs and they are all wet but cant tell if it is fuel or antifreeze...There was defientely pressure in the radiator and when I pulled the cap it had white frothy foam and antifreeze gushed out. Which I dont think should have happened since it only ran a couple seconds. Soon as I find someone to help with the compression test I will report back with the numbers and see if that gets me somewhere.

I did stop at a mechanic shop on my way to school and asked a general ballpark price to have the head gasket replaced on the 225 and he looked it up in his computer and said it would be about a $650 just in labor plus parts plus the head would have to be resurfaced and a valve job done...so he guestimated $1200.

:spam dragon: dont have that kind of cash at the moment....

 

[74Satellite]

I dont think I am doing this right....Should all the plugs be out at the same time while doing a compression test? Or just the one Im checking? Cause on this first cylinder when I crank it over with all 6 plugs out the needle on the guage very quickly jumps up to 120 then back to 0 and the engine doesnt sound right at all. Can someone explain how this works and what I should be looking for on the guage. Do I need to put the plugs back in before hitting ignition on all cylinders not being tested.

 

[GTXKen]

Yes, all plugs should be out at the same time while doing the compression test and the throttle plates on the carb should be open as well. The gauge holds the pressure so you shoule be able to do it alone. After you read the pressure there should be a pin or button to release the gauge. make sure you screw the gauge in far enough to get a good seal. read the compression on all cylingers and compare.

 

[WileE]

If the radiator cap is off & your engine is running, you should not see anything other than coolant in the radiator, moving slowly after the thermostat opens. .. if there's bubbles... compression air is entering the coolant passage... while the engine is off, the coolant leaks into the cylinder...