Help with '69 RR Ignition and charging

[bird blaster]

New to MOPAR with my 1969 Roadrunner, 4spd 383.

I have been so pleased with getting my first muscle car! I have been working on a few visual exterior upgrades and the car had been running well. Sometimes hard to start when warm, but I read that isn't necessarily specific to my car.

My 383 has a pertronix ignitor II ignition system. The car died and would not start. I have been trying to diagnose and fix the problem. First I found that the battery was died and I replaced it. This the battery I got the car with and I can't speak to the overall health of it. With the new battery the car will turn over and "start" in the ignition 2 position. I can even get it to rev up some with my foot on the gas. The CAR MUST STAY in the ignition 2 position with the starter engaging the engine to have it run. As soon as the key is dropped into position 1 the tach immediately drops to zero and the engine ceases to run.

I have replaced the ballast resistor and that has not changed anything (a few folks suggested that this was the issue).

I have a few parts on order and they should be here next week. I ordered a new alternator (as I don't know if that is why the battery originally died), voltage regulator, 2 additional ballast resistors and a new ignition switch.

I am just looking for some help from the board on what to do, where to look to get my car running again! My thought was that it is the ignition switch, but I don't really know.

Thanks
BB


EDIT --> ignition problem seems solved. New issue with charging.

 

[dvw]

Ignition 1 powers thru the dark blue wire. It runs from the igntion switch to the input side of the ballast resistor. Then thru the ballast resistor iself to the coil. My bet is the ballast resistor has failed. Ignition 2 is a brown wire from the ignition switch that attaches on the output side of the ballast resistor and then to the coil.
Doug

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Get yourself a service manual here: Service Manuals – MyMopar
Use the wiring diagram to help troubleshoot. It sounds like you don't have power at ignition 1, so check for voltage at the ballast resistor and trace it back from there.

 

[4mulas]

Is the ignition switch sloppy or loose?

 

[Don Frelier]

Check the bulkhead connector. That's my thought.

 

[4vnut]

My X died at a red light one day and would not start. Raising the hood I could see nothing wrong so i started checking all the ignition connections and low and behold one terminal connector on the ballast resistor was not making good contact and not "pushed" onto the spade blade properly. A little push on the connector and she fired right up and been running happily ever since.

 

[Don Frelier]

My X died at a red light one day and would not start. Raising the hood I could see nothing wrong so i started checking all the ignition connections and low and behold one terminal connector on the ballast resistor was not making good contact and not "pushed" onto the spade blade properly. A little push on the connector and she fired right up and been running happily ever since.

Most people are happy when their ex dies.

 

[R413]

Pertronix, do they want you to eliminate the ballast resistor?

alternator won’t cause this. Run the car and check voltage. somwhere 14-14.5 is great.

See if you have power on the dark blue wire on ballast in run position. if not wiggle the connectors on the bulkhead Connector while watching the meter.

 

[4vnut]

Most people are happy when their ex dies.

Not sure, may depend on how hard the plug pushing was?

 

[bird blaster]

Sounds like I have some more work to do following wires. June 5 before I get a replacement ballast (I borrowed one from my girlfriends uncle).

The "blue" wire that goes through the bulkhead. Does this come direct from +ve on terminal?

I have a large gauge wire coming off terminal that is blue and has an inline fuse, clearly aftermarket. The fuse looks ok. I have to test across it again, make sure it is. Then trace wires.

Overall the ignition seemed solid and the ignition switch before I pulled them from the dash to follow wires.

Thanks
BB

 

[bird blaster]

Woohoo!!!! Got it running!!!!!

Pulling the ignition switch was key. I was feeling around on the back of it and just pushed in on it....blue wire (?) and it allowed car to run.

I will probably still change the ignition switch out.


ANOTHER Question.

At idle or rev with the ammeter sit in the middle, or go into CHARGE, or stay in discharge?. Mine is sitting slightly left towards discharge. I still have questions about my alternator.

 

[LowBikeMike]

If securing wire fixed problem do not trplace ignition switch. The originals are much better.

Ammeter should settle to center of gauge.

 

[RJRENTON]

New to MOPAR with my 1969 Roadrunner, 4spd 383.

I have been so pleased with getting my first muscle car! I have been working on a few visual exterior upgrades and the car had been running well. Sometimes hard to start when warm, but I read that isn't necessarily specific to my car.

My 383 has a pertronix ignitor II ignition system. The car died and would not start. I have been trying to diagnose and fix the problem. First I found that the battery was died and I replaced it. This the battery I got the car with and I can't speak to the overall health of it. With the new battery the car will turn over and "start" in the ignition 2 position. I can even get it to rev up some with my foot on the gas. The CAR MUST STAY in the ignition 2 position with the starter engaging the engine to have it run. As soon as the key is dropped into position 1 the tach immediately drops to zero and the engine ceases to run.

I have replaced the ballast resistor and that has not changed anything (a few folks suggested that this was the issue).

I have a few parts on order and they should be here next week. I ordered a new alternator (as I don't know if that is why the battery originally died), voltage regulator, 2 additional ballast resistors and a new ignition switch.

I am just looking for some help from the board on what to do, where to look to get my car running again! My thought was that it is the ignition switch, but I don't really know.

Thanks
BB

Perhaps, you could consider REMOVING all the electronic ignition stuff and return to the origional points ignition system. IMO....you will loose nothing in performance by returning to the origional system as nothing was added by going to the Pertronix system......except failure and an inoperative vehicle. What Mopar installed origionally will perform just great.......
BOB RENTON

 

[bird blaster]

If securing wire fixed problem do not trplace ignition switch. The originals are much better.

Ammeter should settle to center of gauge.

OK thanks I will leave as is then!

So I might have an issue with the alternator then still....I have to test that.

 

[bird blaster]

Perhaps, you could consider REMOVING all the electronic ignition stuff and return to the origional points ignition system. IMO....you will loose nothing in performance by returning to the origional system as nothing was added by going to the Pertronix system......except failure and an inoperative vehicle. What Mopar installed origionally will perform just great.......
BOB RENTON

I am starting to think you are RIGHT!!!!

 

[RJRENTON]

I am starting to think you are RIGHT!!!!

One thing at a time....fix the ignition issues first then, then we'll tackle the alternator/charging problems....which are relatively simple to diagnose and fix.....
BOB RENTON

 

[bird blaster]

Firstly, THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

I am pretty new to this and new to own car maintenance. I do really enjoy the problem solving and trying to get it to work on my own. I have two follow-up questions.

I need some further help.

The wiring doesn't seem ideal in the car (new to me this year) and it has the electronic ignition. The battery is new and holds 12.6+V. When the car is running (yay!) it is 12.5V and not 13+V. The alternator has two field tabs and the terminal. There is only 1 attached (green). There is a black and purple smaller gauge wire coming off the terminal. See first attached picture.

I can trace the purple and black back to this part (see second picture) --> also what is the name of this junction box?

First question --> should the alternator not just have 1 field tab? Is this part of the issue? I do have a 1 field tab alternator arriving next week.

The second question I have is regarding this white wire that comes from the bulkhead that has been spliced into with the black wire that goes to the modular plug (it is the wire with two kinks and missing the outer plastic insulation) (see 3rd picture). What does this wire do? I clearly need to fix this. Just wanted to know if it would be involved in the charging or running of car.

Again thanks for all of you help.

 

[bird blaster]

One thing at a time....fix the ignition issues first then, then we'll tackle the alternator/charging problems....which are relatively simple to diagnose and fix.....
BOB RENTON

Car is running now after fiddling with the wires on the back of the ignition switch. I guess one must have been loose. It fires up just like it did before and idles nice right away.

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Some suggestions so that you can limit the electrical gremlins...
Put one of these over the stud on the alternator where the black and purple wire are. It will help protect from accidentally grounding the battery

That 'junction box' is the starter relay. I don't know what the white wire is but you should trace it back and use the service manual to help with the function of that wire.
Any wire with the insulation broken like that allows corrosion to form on the wire=increased resistance. At the very least tape it off, but you should look at replacing it.

 

[Norv]

It might be good to install a new starter relay switch.