Helpful tips for Hedman header installation

[Budnicks]

I've had several sets of Hedman's over the decades
on Low-deck B engines, shorty block huggers & long tube 1-7/8"
never had any issues, none like described anyway


must be the RB raised blocks higher wider block causing issues/clearances
pushes the headers up higher & the RB headers usually angles the headers
off the heads slightly which inturn, make them closer to the starter

the Low-deck B engine headers
don't usually hug the block as tight they go straighter down
or don't always have such a tight angle/bends immediately after
exiting the exhaust ports

most my headers now are a custom build anyway,
properly routed & sized/length with 4-2-1 merge collectors
for my specific build needs/combos

I have had some Schumacher Creative Industries,
that were really nice, breeze to install, but far more $$$,
like the TTI's & Dougs are $400+ - $800+ range

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

I find it funny sometimes that,
why put thousands of $$$ in your engine ?
& just bolt on a set of $150 cheapo headers ? {Than complain}
makes no sense to me & it never has, never will...

especially any 2" header & 3.5" collectors
are going to be an issue on these cars, regardless who makes them
especially if the stock K-member, power steering or completely different steering boxes
or quick ratio arms etc., or just worn out & saggy/squised eng. oe style mounts,
{they make shims for them, even when new, Schumacher Creative Services}
{use the stock starter} & torsion bars are retained or add larger dia. torsion bars...
When it all effects & take room away from the exhaust...

most mass produced header mfgrs have extensive fitment notes too,
some people just ignore them too

one size doesn't fit all,
it is never intended to either & it shouldn't

IMO Some people get really cheap in the wrong places...

 

[dieseldazzle]

That'sy problem with Dougs. 2" primary tubes are way too big for a warmed up 440

You are splitting hairs it's not gonna be some huge loss of hp or torque at all

 

[Kern Dog]

The 2" TTIs fit my 440 with no clearance problems. THEN I decided to swap in a different K member, one that I had reinforced and painted up nice.
The new K member somehow resulted in the left side header making contact with the steering box.
I don't envy header companies when they try to make stuff for our cars. The Mopar engineers surely never cared to make things easier for anyone. Look at the left side for example. There you have the steering chuck, starter, shift linkage, speedo cable, ATF lines or clutch linkage and a torsion bar. Why didn't they try to even stuff out a bit?

 

[GetX'd]

Don't think I've ever used that brand but have used plenty of 'offbrand' stuff like Blackjack and others....but seems the Blackjack name is now owned by Dynomax. Don't remember the Dynomax name back in the late 60's early 70's.

Had a set of Hooker SC's on a 71 340 Cuda that lasted more than 15 years and one of the good things about them was I could remove and replace the stock starter without unbolting them. It was a tight squeeze but if you held your mouth just right, it was doable.

I had the old "thin walled" Hookers that I bought 40 years ago for my GTX. They fit okay but I had to loosen a motor mount and pull off the drivers side header to get a starter in. But after a few times it went like clockwork. I now have Hooker SCs - ceramic. I hope I never have to replace my mini because it looks to be a major pia. The headers went in okay with a minimum of hammering - but the mini is tight as hell in there.....headers are indeed a hassle

 

[Kern Dog]

When you are a Baller, you have to be ready to deal with these problems.

 

[Super Rob]

Do you have the part number......there are so many different ones on their site for Mopars.

It's 78038:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hed-78038
Maybe I should add, that I use a Mini-Starter and manual steering.

 

[Super Rob]

Last pic before final installation, you can see the only ding I had to make on tube #3.

 

[rumblefish360]

The Mopar engineers surely never cared to make things easier for anyone. Look at the left side for example. There you have the steering chuck, starter, shift linkage, speedo cable, ATF lines or clutch linkage and a torsion bar. Why didn't they try to even stuff out a bit?

Senseless whine ^^^^

The engineers didn't care about us, make things easy for us or even things out because;

There not paid to consider our feeling for a possible, POSSIBLE, group of guys hot rodding or racing the car. The placement or routing of parts is done for a reason and maybe there own ease. Working within the limits of the space of the car and the bean counters, the did what they did.

IF you or I were to design a hot rod or race car, it sure as hell wouldn't look like anything the factory put out that needed to survive a warranty, safety crashes, EPA smog rules, or have seat belts for ... gasp!
Passengers!!!!

The thing truly to whine, complain and bitch about are the header companies that have the worlds most lax (if actually the have any) quality control as well as care or concern for there product and end users ease of installing there product. And yes! I include dealing with and living with crap factory tolerances.

TTI & Dougs have been he best report back from customers that I read from the boards. Two header companies (?) I have had ever fit directly OOTB.

Hooker Super Comp's for my small block 4spd '73 Cuda which also fit in my '79 Magnum. Awesome fit, except the Cuda's Lakewood scattersheild. (Minor dent!)
And, the most unlikely, IMO, Summit headers. In like flint without so much as a scratch on the paint from car body or mechanical interference.

 

[fwi]

The saga continues.......found a used pair made by Chrysler, they are identical to the Hedmans. Driver side fits like a glove, however, passenger side is a different story....tried underneath, torsion bar is in the way just enough to not let header through, from above I have the inner fender well and valve cover blockage.....

 

[mopar 3 B]

The saga continues.......found a used pair made by Chrysler, they are identical to the Hedmans. Driver side fits like a glove, however, passenger side is a different story....tried underneath, torsion bar is in the way just enough to not let header through, from above I have the inner fender well and valve cover blockage.....

Save some time and pull the drivers side torsion bar.
No need to remove starter or jack the engine up.
I used MP headers 1 7/8" prinaries 3" collector on BB. Only real problem was a hole for a flange bolt that was not drilled.

 

[fwi]

It's the passenger side that is resisting my efforts, however, I have beaten the header into submission where it needed it, now it looks like if I remove the center link it will go right up.

 

[65Fury440]

Just ordered a set of D452s from Autozone,
20% off, free shipping.
http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/exhaust-header/dougs-exhaust-header/438120_263151_7656_5281/