Hemi selfbuild
- Thread starter Haflinger
- Start date
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
Yep. All the parts to build one are available one at a time. But much like building an entire car piece by piece, it's cheaper in the long run to buy a crate......IF you can afford it.
As far as "best place to buy from" goes, that will come down to cost, location, and reputation. I personally wouldn't buy **** from Ray Barton because of the screwin he gave a friend of mine. But Anyone who sells M.P. parts will have what you need.
Most people who work for a living can't afford to buy restored cars, or crate motors.
As far as "best place to buy from" goes, that will come down to cost, location, and reputation. I personally wouldn't buy **** from Ray Barton because of the screwin he gave a friend of mine. But Anyone who sells M.P. parts will have what you need.
Most people who work for a living can't afford to buy restored cars, or crate motors.
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
Just my situation, can never save up 15000$ for a crateHemi but if you
split the purchases over 2 years the wife will not feel it that hard.:grin:
Checked Mancini and they seems to have the most parts. Did hear that the
complete rockeassembly though is a PITA concerning price. Maybe worthwhile
looking for a used?
Which of the blocks fits in the BB K-frame?
split the purchases over 2 years the wife will not feel it that hard.:grin:
Checked Mancini and they seems to have the most parts. Did hear that the
complete rockeassembly though is a PITA concerning price. Maybe worthwhile
looking for a used?
Which of the blocks fits in the BB K-frame?
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
I understand and will be facing the same thing when it comes time to load the front end of my "J".
The rocker gear (complete) is about THE most expensive part of the entire motor. I would almost bet you could find some nice roller tipped rockers for about the cost of the ductile iron ones.
I haven't checked the book lately to know if they are still making the block with a wedge type mount or not. Those require some different exhaust to clear properly. It might be more cost effective to have your standard "K" modified into a "J" mount piece. There are people out there doing it. That way you can use the "regular" Hemi mounts and the OE manifolds or any "off the shelf" headers you want.
(edit) I forgot. You can use a regular 440 crank in place of a Hemi piece, but it will have a 6 bolt flange instead of the 8
The rocker gear (complete) is about THE most expensive part of the entire motor. I would almost bet you could find some nice roller tipped rockers for about the cost of the ductile iron ones.
I haven't checked the book lately to know if they are still making the block with a wedge type mount or not. Those require some different exhaust to clear properly. It might be more cost effective to have your standard "K" modified into a "J" mount piece. There are people out there doing it. That way you can use the "regular" Hemi mounts and the OE manifolds or any "off the shelf" headers you want.
(edit) I forgot. You can use a regular 440 crank in place of a Hemi piece, but it will have a 6 bolt flange instead of the 8
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
Been doing some research and I seems to get the best prices at
ricksixpack (Rick Casselt). Would end up to 11600$ for the parts
sitting on a complete crate engine, ofcourse machining has to be added.
Now I see Jegs sells them for 13500$ so it will be almost the same
in the end. Question is, have the crate engines become any better
then before? I read horrorstories about what some people have experienced
but because you only are on Moparforums you don't know how other
crateengines are. I know before it was always recomended to tare the
crateengine apart to be sure.
ricksixpack (Rick Casselt). Would end up to 11600$ for the parts
sitting on a complete crate engine, ofcourse machining has to be added.
Now I see Jegs sells them for 13500$ so it will be almost the same
in the end. Question is, have the crate engines become any better
then before? I read horrorstories about what some people have experienced
but because you only are on Moparforums you don't know how other
crateengines are. I know before it was always recomended to tare the
crateengine apart to be sure.
Patrick
Well-Known Member
Go here http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Gateway.html they have everything you need to put a hemi on a LA or B engine K frame in a kit.
hemirambob
Active Member
It's my understanding that Barton is taking all of the hemi crates that Ma' Mopar sells and is rebuilding/machining for for better fit and finish? Anybody else hear this?
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
Some hotrod show was putting a Hemi in one of their builds and got their motor from Barton. They said Barton was building the crates.....
which is a good reason for me to not buy a crate
which is a good reason for me to not buy a crate
696pack
Well-Known Member
If I were looking to build a Hemi over time I would looking for original used parts. Blocks, heads, rocker gear.
There are still a lot of original parts out there that are good. You just have to be careful and insist that the seller have both the block and heads sonic tested and magnafluxed by a reputable shop and get a machine card telling you what you are purchasing. If the seller is not willing to do that just keep shopping.
I don't know what your intentions are but you probably want a stroker engine so the rotating assembly is something you want to buy new.
As previously stated, buy a roller cam and aftermarket rockers.
If you do it this way you will likely come out ahead of buying a crate motor. From what I have been hearing you need to take the crates apart and check everthing anyway as the quality has been less than good.
The other thing is, if for some reason you ever need to sell the engine it is not just another crate engine and the original numbers will ALWAYS be worth more to someone.
There are still a lot of original parts out there that are good. You just have to be careful and insist that the seller have both the block and heads sonic tested and magnafluxed by a reputable shop and get a machine card telling you what you are purchasing. If the seller is not willing to do that just keep shopping.
I don't know what your intentions are but you probably want a stroker engine so the rotating assembly is something you want to buy new.
As previously stated, buy a roller cam and aftermarket rockers.
If you do it this way you will likely come out ahead of buying a crate motor. From what I have been hearing you need to take the crates apart and check everthing anyway as the quality has been less than good.
The other thing is, if for some reason you ever need to sell the engine it is not just another crate engine and the original numbers will ALWAYS be worth more to someone.
- Local time
- 5:36 PM
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2008
- Messages
- 4,613
- Reaction score
- 2,211
- Location
- Southeastern, PA
DING DING DING We have a winner !
65DODGE
Well-Known Member
I am also doing a hemi self build for the 65 coronet i thought it would be easier to build it a piece at a time instead of forking over a huge wad of cash up front that i dont have, i just got a mp block for 2618.00 i should have the short block finished this year and next year at this time i hope to have it finished and in the car again i hope thats how it will go.
q-ship
Well-Known Member
Not to get off topic, but unless you want the RB style Hemi for originality sake, I would go with a 6.1 based 426 for performance.
You can save 300+ pounds with the "new" hemi (which is worth about 100 Hp), and get around 20 MPG on the highway.
A 6.1 based 426 will produce far more low end torque than even most stroker G2's (generation 2), and can be had for about half what the G2 hemi can be had for.
Arrington engines can provide you a crate G3 426 that produces 600+ HP (equivalent to 700+HP on a G2, and the G3 is about 110% more fuel efficient at that power rating and much more tractable.
You can save 300+ pounds with the "new" hemi (which is worth about 100 Hp), and get around 20 MPG on the highway.
A 6.1 based 426 will produce far more low end torque than even most stroker G2's (generation 2), and can be had for about half what the G2 hemi can be had for.
Arrington engines can provide you a crate G3 426 that produces 600+ HP (equivalent to 700+HP on a G2, and the G3 is about 110% more fuel efficient at that power rating and much more tractable.
Similar threads
