High powered 165 amp alternator and engine wiring help

[bmopars4life]

Im trying to get my 69 charger wired,

It has an old electronic conversion distributor

It does not have a rotor on it under the distributor cap for some reason,

I have tried to install a rotor I purchased for electronic ignition and it goes on easy till the last part, should I lube with a little motor oil, and bottom it out or what am I doing wrong?

Are all points and electronic rotors and distributor caps the same or are they different?



How does the ballast resistor wire in or is it needed?

Do I need to use a voltage regulator and an electronic ignition module?

Module I have is SL205G would an orange one be better it’s a 440 engine



My goal is to install a 165 amp Power master Alternator

Trying to determine the correct way without frying things

And improving power loads

Will this diagram work or will it not?

I appreciate Any input or advice ive been stuck on these areas

Im hoping im not the only one and we can all work together to figure this out.

For all who are in the same situation.
this is what i am working on


My thoughts in chicken scratch form

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Maybe this will help.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Alternator won't fry anything by itself. Amperage is given by the alt as far the accesories and car itself demands for that.

If you accesories and car demands 45, 50, 60 amps, you can get a 500 amps alternator, but it will source just the 45, 50, 60 amps required.

Is the same than your 900 amps battery, which is able to source a 200 amps starter motor, the same than a 0.5 amps cluster bulb and won't fry the bulb!

You charge your cell phone on same AC wall outlet than you feed a hair dryer or an iron, and won't burn the cell phone charger, just because the power network is able to feed the iron or dryer.

Wiring and terminals must be upgraded according with the car equipments to be sourced more than to the source itself

The advantage on get a 165 amps alt is be sure will feed everything at any speed without any battery assistance, so it won't get a discharged battery ever. Having a battery allways charged it guarantees you'll be saving from extra 20-40 amps load rate running throught the wiring to recharge the batt.

This has been discussed since ever ( there are no less than 3 or 4 threads about this latelly ) and is amazing how ppl still don't understand this.

You can even still keep the ammeter in place. It will be in fact safer with a higher alt output than with the stock alt.

Need to add and note the main source splice for the car is between ammeter and alternator, unless you make some "heavy" mods to the harness Inside the cab, so is not safe to remove the stock wiring route between alt and cab.

 

[bmopars4life]

Ok thank Nacho-RT74 you so i should be good with the new stock mmt wire harness, and the internally regulated alternator will be fine with out the firewall regulator and just adding a 2 gauge wire to the alternator leaving the other wires stock including the headlight switch wires and still using the stock amp gauge all cab wires run through correct?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

There are some nice upgrades to consider about wiring, like if you get new harness, it could be complemented with parallel paths out of the bulkhead to help for the loads requirements, since packard terminals are weak above 30-35 amps. Ammeter will be fine but the bulkhead terminals not so fine. Make a quick search on board about that

The wire between alt post and batt will virtually bypass the ammeter. Really, no need for that. Damn! 2 gauge? Not even 6 gauge is needed LOL! A FULLY discharged batt don't suck more than 40-50 amps on the initial moments of the charge cycle, then begins to get down up to 20-30 amps. So, why use a wire gauge able to feed 500 amps? LOL.

And don't feed anything from batt post if planning to keep the ammeter in full working order. Everything must be sourced from alt side

 

[MoparLeo]

At first when reading your post I was waiting for the punch line... Did you just get this car ? Has it ever run since you had it ? What is the history if you don't know what rotor fits...Seriously, find a friend with electrical experience to help you. You can get into trouble quick if you do something. wrong.

 

[Shorthorse]

Ok thank Nacho-RT74 you so i should be good with the new stock mmt wire harness, and the internally regulated alternator will be fine with out the firewall regulator and just adding a 2 gauge wire to the alternator leaving the other wires stock including the headlight switch wires and still using the stock amp gauge all cab wires run through correct?

As Nacho-RT74 said, amps are a measurement of consumption, not pressure. The weak link in Mopar's early electrical system is the the bulkhead terminal. While your doing this change, be sure to thoroughly inspect and clean your bulkhead terminal. Pay special attention to the black and the red wires on the middle plug. Those are the leads that support the ammeter.

 

[bmopars4life]

thanks guys, i have to do more studying, im starting will all new wire harnesses so just was not sure on a few things, yeah drove the car before taking it to the custom shop i thought i could count on, so when i finally got the car back it had no wires in it no class, it was pretty much a rolling painted shell with the motor and trans kind in it, didn't expect to open the distributor cam and see no rotor, figured that out though so now just need to figure out the electronic ignition module and if i need a voltage regulator (since the power master 1 wire says it has a built in) one for this piece of the puzzle. im thinking 75/75 charger will be closest to the wiring i will need for the electronic ignition portion anyway. thanks for any comments and help, good luck to all of you and you projects.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

75 and lates Mopars ( except A bodies what began on 76 ) got shunted ammeter systems, so the charging network from these is completely diff