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Holley Sniper and HyperSpark install.

OK that makes sense... Thanks man... Ill give it a go hate to spend 88 bucks though. lol But on that same note. Why cant I just come off the negative side of the coil straight to the tach like it was before? Does it have something to do with the ECU and tach signal? Trying not to be annoying but also trying to make sense of it too.

It's a bit off my head too but from what i understand is that the "modern" ignition an coils have a different type of pulse wave like shown as below sample.
The modern systems have the square wave type where the old system work with the top one and are not able to give a good indication due to this.
I might have them backwards as well, but that is what i understood from it, i think you get the idea though. :)

Edit: There is another type of adapter, which is the #8910, but this is to be used for systems with a ballast resistor.

Schermafbeelding 2022-02-17 om 20.27.44.png
 
Ok for shits and giggles I went out and tied the tach lead directly to the - coil. It worked but was reading 3k rpms. So I took it off and hooked it to the brown lead from the sniper harness just to double check. I got nothing on the tach. No movement at all. I guess I will buy the tach adapter and give it a shot.
 
Just ordered the 8920 I got it from Amazon for 61 bucks.. 27 dollars cheaper than Summit. wow.
 
You've got to give that good ol tach some grief, none of them probably are accurate all the time.
But it is nice to have an indication on the dash and you can determine rpm's by a quick look at the dash instead of looking all the way down to the handheld screen.
I put my sniper handheld in the same spot, at times a notice i spend too long looking at it instead of the road. :)
When playing with fueling adjustments for example you want to see the AFR reaction when you step on it so your eyes are on the screen, but i found a nice quiet road near me where i can play with that without becoming a danger.
 
You've got to give that good ol tach some grief, none of them probably are accurate all the time.
But it is nice to have an indication on the dash and you can determine rpm's by a quick look at the dash instead of looking all the way down to the handheld screen.
I put my sniper handheld in the same spot, at times a notice i spend too long looking at it instead of the road. :)
When playing with fueling adjustments for example you want to see the AFR reaction when you step on it so your eyes are on the screen, but i found a nice quiet road near me where i can play with that without becoming a danger.
Yea I just used a piece of metal strap to mount the hand held to. I need to fab up something that looks better. Its all just temporary until I figure out a good place for everything. Want to mount stuff to existing holes I don't want to mount cut up things to make it mount.

I still have to pull the cluster out and install the new circuit board. I have lots of little things I need to do to the car. The chrome under the windshield got messed up when I was trying to fix a leak. Also broke a retaining clip that holds the chrome down in that area. Have new windshield and gasket already to go. Just need to get it done. The windshield in it is new but had some added help that I didn't ask for and he cracked the upper driver side corner of the glass. Luckily its in the tinted section and you really can't see it from the outside.
 
The "ecu" for the Sniper is inside the front bowl of the unit. Your "high voltage" coil is inches away. Personally, I wouldn't like that. Also, coils are susceptible to fail from heat and vibration. Thus one of the reasons we try to get all that stuff off the motor.
 
The "ecu" for the Sniper is inside the front bowl of the unit. Your "high voltage" coil is inches away. Personally, I wouldn't like that. Also, coils are susceptible to fail from heat and vibration. Thus one of the reasons we try to get all that stuff off the motor.
Yea... I had already moved it to the fender. Good point though.
 
Happy to find this out, while my cluster is out. I'll mount this under the dash with the rest of my modified Holley Sniper Stealth EFI and Hyperspark harness.
Did anyone else modify a ballast to a non ballast, so it still looks factory?
 
I left the old ballast resistor on the firewall as well as the wiring. Everything else is wired separate from the old stuff. The main reason I left the old ignition stuff less the ECU in tact is because I have a brand new ECU and the electronic distributor in a box along with a ford style cap and rotor. So If something fails you can just swap back to the old stuff and not miss a beat.
 
I left the old ballast resistor on the firewall as well as the wiring. Everything else is wired separate from the old stuff. The main reason I left the old ignition stuff less the ECU in tact is because I have a brand new ECU and the electronic distributor in a box along with a ford style cap and rotor. So If something fails you can just swap back to the old stuff and not miss a beat.
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Almost done rewiring everything and made a separate harness for the EFI so it’s not affecting the new OE harnesses. I want to change out the fuel line with 3/8 stainless OE looking with the brass T.

E1761F12-8DA4-44B6-9470-1EA9DF711F69.jpeg
 
Almost done rewiring everything and made a separate harness for the EFI so it’s not affecting the new OE harnesses. I want to change out the fuel line with 3/8 stainless OE looking with the brass T.

View attachment 1254134
3/8" Stainless is a complete bitch to flare if you don't have one of the hydraulic flaring tools. The stainless laughs at my $75 kit.
 
Almost done rewiring everything and made a separate harness for the EFI so it’s not affecting the new OE harnesses. I want to change out the fuel line with 3/8 stainless OE looking with the brass T.

View attachment 1254134
Yours looks good. Mine.... Not so much I have to contend with the Hyperspark box as well as the extra harness from the sniper. So I have a gob more wires to try and hide.
 
Mine is all hidden inside.
I’m finishing up a relay/fuse bracket. mom waiting for Amazon to deliver my MSD 8920
MSD 8920 Magnetic Pickup Tachometer Adapter, black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029JMLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_X3WRP9FVATJ18HB7ZVK0

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I like that install.. I may move it all inside too. This is the first time I have done the Hyper Spark so its trial and error.
 
I like that install.. I may move it all inside too. This is the first time I have done the Hyper Spark so its trial and error.
Same here.
Are you using a factory tach?
I started with the Sniper square coil https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-152
Found it a bit of a challenge to mount, and wanted the stock appearance, so I went with https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/performance_street/parts/556-153
 
Same here.
Are you using a factory tach?
I started with the Sniper square coil https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-152
Found it a bit of a challenge to mount, and wanted the stock appearance, so I went with https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/performance_street/parts/556-153
Yes factory tach I have that fixed with the tach adapter. I have an ACCEL Super Coil I could use. But for now I have the square one mounted to the fender.
 
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