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Holley ultra hp dominator issues

Cape

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#305524107/02/22 12:59 PM
Cape
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member
C
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 170
Canada
Hey everyone. I’m having issues with my 1350 ultra hp dominator. It’s was new when I bought it and sent it to Gary Williams to get it set up more for my car. 69 charger 478 hemi that makes 850@8000rpm, Gforce transmission 4 speed with a rob Youngblood twin disc clutch and 4:88s in the Dana out back. Car is full weight as well. So I just got the carb back and put it on and it started up nicely but when it was out for a test drive it fell flat on its face, I tried to put it up to 5000 on the 3 step but couldn’t even make it to full rpm. It’s like it’s dumping too much fuel.
I haven’t had time to mess with it or call Gary because of work, the carb has 106 square jetting, not sure on the air bleeds and the float on both front and rear seem way to high, over 3/4 of the sight glass. I know the carb is big but I really want to make it work. A buddy that has a dyno tried my carb on a 572 bb dodge and it wasn’t good compared to the 1250 that was on it. So my buddy let me try his fried and true 1050 dyno carb which wasn’t tuned for my car and it made a world of difference, complete different car. I’m just wondering besides jetting it way down is there anything else I can do? I never received a build sheet from Gary stating what size air bleeds or emulsion bleeds are in the carb. It’s also a 3 circuit carb and both power valves are plugged. Just looking for any suggestions in case I can’t get a hold of them anytime soon Thanks for any help you can give.
 
#305524107/02/22 12:59 PM
Cape
Offline
OP
member
C
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 170
Canada
Hey everyone. I’m having issues with my 1350 ultra hp dominator. It’s was new when I bought it and sent it to Gary Williams to get it set up more for my car. 69 charger 478 hemi that makes 850@8000rpm, Gforce transmission 4 speed with a rob Youngblood twin disc clutch and 4:88s in the Dana out back. Car is full weight as well. So I just got the carb back and put it on and it started up nicely but when it was out for a test drive it fell flat on its face, I tried to put it up to 5000 on the 3 step but couldn’t even make it to full rpm. It’s like it’s dumping too much fuel.
I haven’t had time to mess with it or call Gary because of work, the carb has 106 square jetting, not sure on the air bleeds and the float on both front and rear seem way to high, over 3/4 of the sight glass. I know the carb is big but I really want to make it work. A buddy that has a dyno tried my carb on a 572 bb dodge and it wasn’t good compared to the 1250 that was on it. So my buddy let me try his fried and true 1050 dyno carb which wasn’t tuned for my car and it made a world of difference, complete different car. I’m just wondering besides jetting it way down is there anything else I can do? I never received a build sheet from Gary stating what size air bleeds or emulsion bleeds are in the carb. It’s also a 3 circuit carb and both power valves are plugged. Just looking for any suggestions in case I can’t get a hold of them anytime soon Thanks for any help you can give.
Street driving/tuning will be a challenge with 3 circuit dominator....2 circuit is much less street challenging /tuning
 
Definitely contact Dominic Thumper of Thumper carbs...thank me later

Kirk
 
#305524107/02/22 12:59 PM
Cape
Offline
OP
member
C
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 170
Canada
Hey everyone. I’m having issues with my 1350 ultra hp dominator. It’s was new when I bought it and sent it to Gary Williams to get it set up more for my car. 69 charger 478 hemi that makes 850@8000rpm, Gforce transmission 4 speed with a rob Youngblood twin disc clutch and 4:88s in the Dana out back. Car is full weight as well. So I just got the carb back and put it on and it started up nicely but when it was out for a test drive it fell flat on its face, I tried to put it up to 5000 on the 3 step but couldn’t even make it to full rpm. It’s like it’s dumping too much fuel.
I haven’t had time to mess with it or call Gary because of work, the carb has 106 square jetting, not sure on the air bleeds and the float on both front and rear seem way to high, over 3/4 of the sight glass. I know the carb is big but I really want to make it work. A buddy that has a dyno tried my carb on a 572 bb dodge and it wasn’t good compared to the 1250 that was on it. So my buddy let me try his fried and true 1050 dyno carb which wasn’t tuned for my car and it made a world of difference, complete different car. I’m just wondering besides jetting it way down is there anything else I can do? I never received a build sheet from Gary stating what size air bleeds or emulsion bleeds are in the carb. It’s also a 3 circuit carb and both power valves are plugged. Just looking for any suggestions in case I can’t get a hold of them anytime soon Thanks for any help you can give.
Your intermediate air bleeds are way too lean.
Do you know what size they are?
 
Thanks everyone for the help. I know what air bleeds came with it but not sure what they changed them to. I got the bill that says what they did but not what sizes they put in and I took a couple out and there’s no numbers on them. I’ve asked for the specs but haven’t heard back yet. I did end up putting in 94s square in them and set the idle mixture screws at 1 full turn out which seemed to help, it ran 100% better. I think I gotta get it to the track now and fine tune it some more. Not sure if it’ll need more jet at the track, the tracks DA is usually around 4-5000 feet so not the best. Thanks again for the help.
 
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