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Hotter ignition

Daly

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:46 PM
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
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Location
Ontario
So I have a few more questions to ask...

The first is, has anyone done this and was the outcome worth it?
http://www.designed2drive.com
I'm wanting to upgrade the ignition and starter systems on my Coronet and someone had mentioned this swap to me. It allows a GM HEI upgrade to the resistor style Mopar distributor. It piggy backs the resistor with a stock coil or replaces it all together with a 1.0-2.0 ohms performance coil...

The next question is, to run a new ram pick up "mini" starter, is it a direct swap or do I need to change any wiring or such?

And lastly, I bought new gauges for the car and the kit came with a Volt meter instead of an ammeter. Do I need to by pass the ammeter still for other systems or delete it all together and run new wires for the volt meter? I'm just getting into wiring and just need answers to confirm my thoughts. Which is to bypass...
 
a few months ago i went to an FBO HRR688 ignition kit on my '65 coronet. very simple and straight forward to install. allows for 12 volts to the coil. so far i'm very happy with it.
 
As for the mini starter, it's 95% straight forward. I think on my 440 I had to "very slightly" modify a terminal end at most. That was one of the best modifications I've made I think. It didn't cost very much and my engine cranks/starts much, much better. My motor used to eat the stock starters for lunch (gone through 4-5 of them).
 
Before going gunghoo with the starter, check the new one against the old one for the distance of full throw-out on the drive gear, terminal location and clearance to the block for the cables and mounting hole center. Do a tooth count on the new starter compared to the old one because if it's different so is the diameter of the starter gear and engagement can be somewhat disastrous. I recommend attaching the wires and then setting it in place because the lead to the solenoid is easy to over tighten and spin internally thus breaking the connection on the inside. You can leave your amp gauge if you wish but connect the source for the voltmeter at a distance from the battery voltage source to get a true reading when accessories are turned on - The ignition switch is a good spot because it experiences all variations in voltage.
 
I don't really care to keep the Ammeter, I'd rather get rid of it and it's wiring if it's not needed. I don't want to have random wires just hanging around...
 
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