How about a sticky on proper windshield install?

[747mopar]

Having my share of problems sealing mine and seeing so many others why don't we find a pro and have them show the process. I know the 68-70 Have a horrible setup that's prone to leak with tricks that today's glass installers have no clue about so what say you?

 

[Glenwood]

I'll be installing mine in my 64 before long and I'm dreading it. No clue how to seal it properly. A sticky would be great.

 

[miller]

I put my 64's glass in myself, both front and rear, of course using new rubber. Only sealing I used, went in the groove to body seam. Lots of fun doing it alone, but needs to be done carefully anyway.
Used the normal nylon wedge 'tool', to move the glass edge into the groove, with the top edge pushed up into place. Then moved toward the outer edges. The bottom 'corners' are the critical areas, since it's easy to break the glass there! Then, just finish up on the bottom. That's how I did mine...just take your time, use that tool, and don't get too heavy-handed.

Might be a different deal, on the later models. Think some take a locking 'bead' that has to be forced into place.

 

[65-440]

No leaks on my car (68 coronet ) ... new front seal, liquid butyl in the grove on the seal before it goes over the pinch weld, 2 beads next to each other on the bottom lip where the seal lays. Also put a bead inside the groove of the seal where the glass goes into. Been in some nice down pours and stayed nice and dry !

 

[threewood]

Proper way? Probably not. Fly by night? I'm your huckleberry lol.

Biggest issue I can contemplate is the sealant used and where it is placed on the windshield frame. The entire lower portion of the windshield weatherstripping just sits on the frame whereas the sides and top are pushed into the weld seam. So the entire bottom and sides up 4" need to be sealed. Same for the top corners.

I have heard to never use urethane because it doesn't allow the unibody to flex. However, people have had success using it. The preferred sealer is 3M 08509 Bedding and Glazing Compound.

In red is where the sealant needs to be put...

Close up of the transition of the gasket from "sitting on" to "tucked onto" the pinch weld seal. Sealer goes up past this a few inches...

The gasket gets put on the car first. This pic shows the bead lock (very easy to tuck in after the windshield is in place. Notice the sealant before cleaning up...

Tools...

Use a lot of windex...it helps lubricate the rubber and glass so it slides easier. Place the bottom of the windshield into the gasket and tuck both bottom corners into the gasket. From here, move on to one of the top corners. These are a B!@#$ and need to be worked in with the plasctic tool. Don't expect it to slide right in and don't start cussing the manufacturer for an out of spec gasket lol. You will need to work side to side, back and forth. Use the plastic bone to open the window channel while pressing the windshield into it. All the time working the tool, sliding and pressing. No pictures of this as I was busy sweating and cussing!

Glass in! Bead not locked.

Glass in, bead locked. Put some more sealant in the open pockets at the end of the bead lock channels...

Make sure your trim clips are installed!!!!!

 

[747mopar]

Proper way? Probably not. Fly by night? I'm your huckleberry lol.

Biggest issue I can contemplate is the sealant used and where it is placed on the windshield frame. The entire lower portion of the windshield weatherstripping just sits on the frame whereas the sides and top are pushed into the weld seam. So the entire bottom and sides up 4" need to be sealed. Same for the top corners.

I have heard to never use urethane because it doesn't allow the unibody to flex. However, people have had success using it. The preferred sealer is 3M 08509 Bedding and Glazing Compound.

In red is where the sealant needs to be put...
View attachment 426428

Close up of the transition of the gasket from "sitting on" to "tucked onto" the pinch weld seal. Sealer goes up past this a few inches...
View attachment 426429

The gasket gets put on the car first. This pic shows the bead lock (very easy to tuck in after the windshield is in place. Notice the sealant before cleaning up...
View attachment 426430

Tools...
View attachment 426431 View attachment 426432

Use a lot of windex...it helps lubricate the rubber and glass so it slides easier. Place the bottom of the windshield into the gasket and tuck both bottom corners into the gasket. From here, move on to one of the top corners. These are a B!@#$ and need to be worked in with the plasctic tool. Don't expect it to slide right in and don't start cussing the manufacturer for an out of spec gasket lol. You will need to work side to side, back and forth. Use the plastic bone to open the window channel while pressing the windshield into it. All the time working the tool, sliding and pressing. No pictures of this as I was busy sweating and cussing!

Glass in! Bead not locked.
View attachment 426436

Glass in, bead locked. Put some more sealant in the open pockets at the end of the bead lock channels...
View attachment 426437 View attachment 426438

Make sure your trim clips are installed!!!!!
View attachment 426440

That's how mine when in this time... little extra sealant tossed in for extra measure. It would have been nice to know 3 years ago though which is why I'd like to see a sticky, had I known about the bedding compound I probably never would have had to revisit it.

 

[Speedbird]

I have used polyurethane on some A Bodies.
It's nice because I can change the glass without the gasket moving.
But I'm never planning on taking the gasket out.
I don't know how that could even be done. It's really stuck and has never leaked.

I put a Charger in and used the 8509.
If we leave sealant exposed I'm thinking that the trim will stick to it and be hard to ever remove.

So since I'm planning to have some in the channel like this picture, I'm going to put thin PTFE tape on the bottom of the stainless before I put it on the car to keep it from touching the sealant and getting stuck.
Do you see any problems with that?
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...gclid=CNnT0LXChNQCFRZXDQodJuAE7Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[65-440]

To "onlyone" : the trim will still come out fine if it were ever to be removed again, that 8509 and the liquid butyl are non-hardening. Will be stringy and gooey but the trim will come off ! When I did my coronet 2yrs ago I didn't have any trouble getting the trim off, the factory butyl was like really old bubble gum, helps when its warm outside also !

 

[threewood]

I have used polyurethane on some A Bodies.
It's nice because I can change the glass without the gasket moving.
But I'm never planning on taking the gasket out.
I don't know how that could even be done. It's really stuck and has never leaked.

I put a Charger in and used the 8509.
If we leave sealant exposed I'm thinking that the trim will stick to it and be hard to ever remove.

View attachment 426696

So since I'm planning to have some in the channel like this picture, I'm going to put thin PTFE tape on the bottom of the stainless before I put it on the car to keep it from touching the sealant and getting stuck.
Do you see any problems with that?
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...gclid=CNnT0LXChNQCFRZXDQodJuAE7Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

View attachment 426728

No problems, but you can either clean the channel after you get it in or place masking tape around the perimeter of the opening do when you peel it up the extra sealant comes with it. I cleaned mine up by digging it out with a finger (inside a latex glove) and wiping down with solvent.