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How bad is it doc? Follow up after disassembly

Mr. Belvedere II

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So my engine is covered in yuck...now what.
I haven’t taken off the oil pan yet but I’m guessing it’s more of the same. Can I just spray it down with mineral spirits and then spray atf on stuff or what am I to do??? I really don’t want to remove the whole rotating assembly if I can prevent it..

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Complete tear down.
Now or later.
Your choice.
That snot is in every nook and cranny and oil passage and bearing and...well ...you get it....sorry.
 
I’d tear it all down...... every thing in there needs a thorough cleaning and lubing.

For some reason, I thought it was a big block.

I’d say that missing chunk of head gasket connected to that coolant hole is the source of the problem.
 
Have you identified the cause of the problem?
It’s hard to say at the moment the only gasket breach I found was here in this pic around the top of the cylinder. I still need to take off the timing chain cover and see what that looks like. Other than that the head gaskets looked good on all the coolant passages.

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Looks like coolant got into the oil pan, then it was ran awhile. Any overheating issues? How long has it been running bad? Take it all apart, and start again. Was it re built recently?
 
Pr Heads is probably right the headgasket.
And as the others who have posted said that water is everywhere inside that engine.
Very hard to get out without stripping it down.
 
Looks like coolant got into the oil pan, then it was ran awhile. Any overheating issues? How long has it been running bad? Take it all apart, and start again. Was it re built recently?
This motor was rebuilt about 10 yrs ago, and yes there was coolant in the pan when drained. It was run for awhile before it was discovered unfortunately.
 
I’d tear it all down...... every thing in there needs a thorough cleaning and lubing.

For some reason, I thought it was a big block.

I’d say that missing chunk of head gasket connected to that coolant hole is the source of the problem.
What I can’t figure is why that upper chunk would allow any coolant through because it’s not even connected to a passage
 
Sorry but you have to disassemble the engine and rebuild it, I recently send the cylinder head of one of my delivery vans ( 1.6 vw sohc ) to the machine shop due overheat, I try save me some money and I didn't check the oil lines in the block but it was worst, the engine blew a few days later and cost me a lot more because I have to rebuild the engine.
 
Anything noticeable on the intake gaskets? Near the water passages, could have been dumping into the valley. But that wouldn't explain the coolant in the cylinders.
 
Sorry you uncovered this and as others stated it needs a complete rebuild and block/heads checked....
 
Check the timing chain cover. They corrode and can send water into the oil. All the parts may be fine but it's worth a look at the bearings and a good cleaning to be safe. On the other side of the coin I saw plenty of motors at the Dealer that got a head gasket and a oil change and went on their merry way. In the words of Clint Eastwood "you got to ask yourself. Do I feel lucky?"
Doug
 
Check the timing chain cover. They corrode and can send water into the oil. All the parts may be fine but it's worth a look at the bearings and a good cleaning to be safe. On the other side of the coin I saw plenty of motors at the Dealer that got a head gasket and a oil change and went on their merry way. In the words of Clint Eastwood "you got to ask yourself. Do I feel lucky?"
Doug
The timing chain cover is actually my guess as to why this happened but I will need to get it off to check it out. Haven’t gotten the crank bolt off yet, I sprayed some penetrating oil to help me out the next time I go back to it cuz I could not budge it earlier.
 
Might I ask why the forward 2 pistons look like flat top pistons while the other 2 have valve reliefs?

1CB0386F-2CC8-4D1F-9B7E-31FEA69DBE20.jpeg
 
If you don't have an air impact wedge a breaker bar on the bolt to the flor. Thmilken quickly bump the starter. It'll break it loose.
Doug
 
Being that it was rebuilt and not ran much, you could probably get away with a light hone if the cylinders are in nice shape or maybe just clean them up with no hone at all. The bearings, those I would replace because antifreeze is very corrosive to them and for the few hundred bucks, it is cheap insurance. I'd have the block hot tanked and see what it looks like corrosion wise and go from there. Id check the flatness and surface finish on that deck surface and the heads and make sure it's flat and wasn't leaking there because of that. Also was the block magnufluxed for cracks? That's ALOT of coolant inside that engine for a small leak unless it was run for some time like you said. $750-$1000 in gaskets and small parts is cheap insurance for the long run if you want it to stay together and provide years or service.

:thumbsup:
 
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