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How long can a rebuilt transmission sit without fluid?


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10:55 AM
May 10, 2020
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I'm thinking about purchasing a 727 transmission that we rebuilt a year ago. Never run, never had fluid put in it.

Is it ok for a transmission to sit that long without any fluid?

I would say yes provide it was in a dry environment.
The front and rear oil seals may go hard after several years.
Generally Yes, but where was it sitting? Moisture could be a problem.
I'll be looking at it on Friday. So I'll know for then.

Also... This was going into a 68 B-Body. This should be the same as the 72 B-Body correct? Tail shaft and all?

The important thing to know is, was Assembl`ee Goo used in the rebuild process?? If so, you are probably good to go. If not, seals are probably ruined, or will be at first startup.. If you are gonna give it a go without knowing, I'd plan on putting some fluid in it and at least rolling it around in the floor several times before installing in a vehicle.

The two applications would bolt up the same, but likely have different valve bodies and therefore different programming....can't remember the key difference maybe part throttle kickdown....otherwise very very similar.
Fill it with fluid and run it.
Just for context...I pulled a 727 out of a Dodge Polara that had been sitting dry in the junkyard (for at least two years that I could verify) installed it in a car, put a new pan and gasket on it and proceeded to beat the crap out of it on the street and the strip for about two years before the band strut broke. It did weep a bit from the selector shaft seal area during that time, not too bad though and it took everything I threw at it.
If you can/want to rebuild it now, great. Otherwise, run it!. 727s are some tough summabitches...
Most people that rebuild these things slather transmission fluid or assembly lube on everything. It should be OK to go. A bonus is, the '72 transmission will have part throttle kick down.
I built one in the late 80s for a Challenger project I sold but, kept the 727. I tore it down for the 4 pinion planetaries in 2018 and it looked great inside. I did have it sealed up very well.
I bought a 87 Dodge Ram D250 with a 360/auto and when I got it home and started servicing it the tranny fluid that came out looked like chunky chocolate milk and worst smelling fluid I've ever drained out of any vehicle! There was no drain on the converter so put new filter and fluid in it and ran it for a month then drained it again, new filter and fluid and then ran for about 6 months and did another service....after a year the fluid was nice and clean and I worked that truck hard over the years and that 727 never missed a beat. So yeah tough transmissions to kill!
Hopefully the clutches were properly soaked before assembly.
Ok, so I bought this transmission and I looked over the torque converter and there is a sticker that says "CVC" with a date of manufacture and "C21".
I looked it up online and "CVC" is a company that rebuilds torque converters. And "C21" seems to be a stock converter (not a stall converter as sold to me, however i don't thing he was 100 positive himself) and for a steel crankshaft.
I have a 1972 Satellite (block says 1973) 400 which is cast iron external balance.
What is the difference of the steel crankshaft converter vs the cast converter? Just the weights?
So much to learn. Ugh!




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I am pretty sure you can buy an aftermarket unbalanced drive plate to adapt this to cast crank. Check places that sell modified converters or A&A Transmissions near Indy.