okiemopar
Well-Known Member
What amp altinater is every one running? it's a 70 383 RR with no power but it is now just putting out 11.5 volts and that is not enough. So do I need to go with a 60 amp one? Thanks for any info. Ronnie
How many Amps?????
- Thread starter okiemopar
- Start date
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
I just upgraded to a 136 Denso alternator from a newer truck.
Is your alternator only 11-volts at idle or all the time?
If it is all the time, then it is not working. Could be alternator or regulator?
A 60 amp should work fine. usually when going to a larger output alternator, run another 10AWG or larger wire from the alternator output stud to the battery to take some of the load off the stock wiring, bulkhead connectors, and amp meter. When you do this the amp meter will not show much movement, so a voltage gauge should be used.
Is your alternator only 11-volts at idle or all the time?
If it is all the time, then it is not working. Could be alternator or regulator?
A 60 amp should work fine. usually when going to a larger output alternator, run another 10AWG or larger wire from the alternator output stud to the battery to take some of the load off the stock wiring, bulkhead connectors, and amp meter. When you do this the amp meter will not show much movement, so a voltage gauge should be used.
PoppaSmurf
Well-Known Member
been running a Power Master 75amp for 6 years now
I think the original ALT is about 35 amps and unless you have a ton of accessories like power windows and some megawatt stereo there is no reason to go with more.
One clarification regarding amps. A 60 amp alternator is only capable of putting out 60 amps only if there is a demand for it. Do not go down the road of misconception thinking that a 60 amp alternator will instantly put 60 amps through your wiring.
Just diagnose your charging system and replace what's broken, which is by far the cheapest and easiest solution. If you do go with the high power alternator then upgrading the wiring to keep consistent is a good idea. Kind of like building electrical codes that say a 20A circuit must use 12 ga wire.
One clarification regarding amps. A 60 amp alternator is only capable of putting out 60 amps only if there is a demand for it. Do not go down the road of misconception thinking that a 60 amp alternator will instantly put 60 amps through your wiring.
Just diagnose your charging system and replace what's broken, which is by far the cheapest and easiest solution. If you do go with the high power alternator then upgrading the wiring to keep consistent is a good idea. Kind of like building electrical codes that say a 20A circuit must use 12 ga wire.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
I have a 100 amp tuff stuff alt. got tired of having to re charge the battery every time i wanted to sit and idle for tuning. Plus I have electronic ignition and now the battery will get a charge at idle unlike the stock 35 alt.
If you are all stock a 60 upgrade would be fine but check your regulator it is probably going out. If you upgrade to electronic the tuff stuff and the power masters both offer one wire internal regulators alts.
If you need a stock replacement let me know I have an original from my 383 and a 440source after market I will sell for $40 plus shipping both working. Stock is dual pulley after is single.
If you are all stock a 60 upgrade would be fine but check your regulator it is probably going out. If you upgrade to electronic the tuff stuff and the power masters both offer one wire internal regulators alts.
If you need a stock replacement let me know I have an original from my 383 and a 440source after market I will sell for $40 plus shipping both working. Stock is dual pulley after is single.
eagleone1983
Well-Known Member
Don't mean to steal the thread but since my question is on the same subject. What alternator is recommended when running an after market stereo on a non-a/c '69 RR. Also do the after market alts fit with the stock brackets?
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
The Tuff Stuff one wire I have is 100 amps, more than enough to drive high output stereos, amps, lights etc.. technically if your car wiring is in good condition a 75 amp alt would be more than enough as well.
Yes the aftermarkets alts fit perfectly with the stock brackets, look for square back. Look for things like single or dual pulley depending on your set up.
If you have stock ignition you might consider replacing your regulator when you get a new alt.
If you have electronic ignition such as MSD or Pertronics then the square back one wires work well. Internal regulator. Good luck.
okiemopar
Well-Known Member
I have all new regulater an engine wiring harness, don't you think this would be good for a sixty amp one? I can get a sixty for the same price as the small ones. Ronnie
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Everything stock? then yes.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
1badgtx
Well-Known Member
I,m runnin the tuff stuff 100 amp also.I,m runnin a 1000 watt stereo amp with 10 imch sub in the trunk..Also have full msd with retard box...So I,m sucking alot of juice...
Petty blue 67 gtx
Petty blue 67 gtx
eagleone1983
Well-Known Member
I don't have an ignition system really picked out yet but currently I have all the Chrysler electronic ignition components that were with the car when I bought it. So with the Petronics set up I don't need the voltage regulator bolted to the firewall? I bought all new wiring and when I bought the M&H engine harness I went with the one that is already modified for Chrysler electronic ignition so I'll probably just use what I already have.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
With Petronics and the one wire internal reg alt you will not need fire wall reg put it on shelf. If you keep the stock electronic set up even with a new harness the 60 amp should be fine. external reg. one wire means no ground at alt two wire means run a ground to alt terminal.
67 B-body
Well-Known Member
What do you need?
OK,,, being an electrical guy, I can't set by and let this one go untouched!
When designing any electrical circuit, you start by concidering the load. "Load = all devices that could be on at the same time". If you have 3 items your trying to supply power to, you can easily add up the tottal amp draw and provide that amount plus some buffer when sizing the alt.
Most of your aftermarket devices come with a "MAX" amp draw specification. This is the only way you can fuse it properly. If you want to know for example, how much current "amps" your headlights draw, you can simply use an amp meter in place of the headlight fuse and turn them on. Record that value and move on to the next device. Once everything is calculated individualy, you can size the alternator to that needed value plus say 10% for charging while using all components. Remember as pointed out by others, you need to size your wire for this rating as well.... There are plenty of charts available online, so I wont get into the details of this in my post. Also make sure your bulk head connectors, fuse box, and any splices, joining points are up for the challenge when increasing current flow through any conductor.
A smart planned approach is ALWAYS safer than a stab in the dark bigger is better method.
Good luck!
OK,,, being an electrical guy, I can't set by and let this one go untouched!
When designing any electrical circuit, you start by concidering the load. "Load = all devices that could be on at the same time". If you have 3 items your trying to supply power to, you can easily add up the tottal amp draw and provide that amount plus some buffer when sizing the alt.
Most of your aftermarket devices come with a "MAX" amp draw specification. This is the only way you can fuse it properly. If you want to know for example, how much current "amps" your headlights draw, you can simply use an amp meter in place of the headlight fuse and turn them on. Record that value and move on to the next device. Once everything is calculated individualy, you can size the alternator to that needed value plus say 10% for charging while using all components. Remember as pointed out by others, you need to size your wire for this rating as well.... There are plenty of charts available online, so I wont get into the details of this in my post. Also make sure your bulk head connectors, fuse box, and any splices, joining points are up for the challenge when increasing current flow through any conductor.
A smart planned approach is ALWAYS safer than a stab in the dark bigger is better method.
Good luck!
green1
Well-Known Member
I think mopar went from 35 to 60 in 70 or 71. No the problem is, your wires aren't big enough to handle the bigger alt. We just did this on a 70 duster and 69 charger. I am not near the paperwork, but I know on the duster; That advanced auto, coming from china, with 1 field contact grounded, would have fried the dash, if the field wires hadn't been reversed on it in the engine comp (green and blue) 20+ volts. Oh, this was just putting a later 71 in it. Caught that. Now, to install it; madelectric for chebbies, works the same, bypass ammeter, run the big wire in engine bay, get voltmeter. works great.
On the charger, we did the same bypass, and talked to the same local alt builder I FORGOT- you have to buy the fusible link wire from him, 2 sizes, $5,just a smaller wire is not a fusible link.
We had him modify a Denso to 110 (700 watt stereo), he grounded 1 fiield for the 69, it took about 1/2 a day to make/modify some brackets to get it lined up, but smaller, and perfect. Also install a solid state regulator, not the mopar one.
On the charger, we did the same bypass, and talked to the same local alt builder I FORGOT- you have to buy the fusible link wire from him, 2 sizes, $5,just a smaller wire is not a fusible link.
We had him modify a Denso to 110 (700 watt stereo), he grounded 1 fiield for the 69, it took about 1/2 a day to make/modify some brackets to get it lined up, but smaller, and perfect. Also install a solid state regulator, not the mopar one.
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