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How much vertical play does an engine have with mounts in?

jogirob

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I finally got an FSM specific to my year (74) and it calls for raising the engine ~1.25-1.75" if I remember correctly. I was wondering if this can be achieved without removing the engine mounts?

I'm going to attempt to pull this pan again. Funny story, while the FSM calls for slightly raising the engine, the Haynes manual calls for removing the rear bolt holding the transmission, and slightly lifting up from the transmission. Sounds easier but would like to be informed in case one method doesn't work.
 
If your engine moves up when trying to raise it without loosening the mounts, you’ve got a problem! Loosen the mounts, it’ll make your job sooo much easier.
 
I agree with 5.7, just get under there and remove the through-bolt on each side..remember to take the nut off of the trans mount to allow everything to move. Easy and effective. I'm not sure what the Haynes book is talking about, if you were to lift from the transmission, all you're going to do is tilt the motor forward on its mounts...
 
I think they are meaning that if you raise the tail of the transmission you will gain rear pan clearance over the center link. Thus not having to drop the center link to drop the pan.

But I agree with the guys above. Not sure how much you could gain. Maybe enough to drop the pan but maybe not.
 
Unbolt the mounts. Place a block of wood under the crank pulley and jack it up with a bottle jack. Keep an eye on the firewall so you aren't pushing against anything.

Or just yank the dang motor out and be done with it. Half day job out and in that you have been dragging out over a month now. Get some help that knows what they are doing to help you.
 
Most Haynes books are just a bunch of generic info put together by data processors. They borrow pics and text from Motor Manuals and the like. Not very reliable, I've seen many mistakes reading them and won't buy any.
 
Like above, just take out the thru-bolt. Mine has no slop any which way(Moroso solid mounts from late 70’s, lol)
 
Jogirob….your motor has virtually no vertical movement at all, so follow the advice above. As for removing the pan on a 70, you drop the drag link & it comes right off, but I do vaguely recall something a little different with the newer cars.
 
73-up spool mounts have a threw bolt. Just have to loosen not remove the bolt for as the tower is slotted.

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Hah! I finally managed to pull the bugger off. I tried the Haynes way. One transmission support bolt on the back, jacked the tail of the transmission up a few inches and out the pan came. I guess the reason this works is because while the K member stays in place, by tipping the transmission (and motor) assembly up it creates the tinyest of extra space between the K and the front of the transmission housing needed to squeeze the pan out.

Most definitely had to drop the centerlink still btw.
 
Hah! I finally managed to pull the bugger off. I tried the Haynes way. One transmission support bolt on the back, jacked the tail of the transmission up a few inches and out the pan came. I guess the reason this works is because while the K member stays in place, by tipping the transmission (and motor) assembly up it creates the tinyest of extra space between the K and the front of the transmission housing needed to squeeze the pan out.

Most definitely had to drop the centerlink still btw.

Did you raise the engine also, loosen motor mounts?
 
Did you raise the engine also, loosen motor mounts?
Nope. It was as simple as:
#1 Drain oil
#2 Unbolt pan
#3 Remove pitman and idler arm nut and drop center link.
#3A Be stuck for about a month
#4 Remove transmission support bolt and jack up tail end 1.5-2".
#5 Profit. From saving $700 from an engine pull.
 
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