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How to force pistons out of 383

Update: tried bfh and 1/2" black pipe after it sat in MMO, no luck freeing it. I dont know at this point what im doing, im going to check and see if a friend can bring his torch so I can cut rods and lift crank, then im going to get a 4x4 and hopefully beat out the rings
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That block is likely junk.
What im thinking, just happy that I can salvage what I can, timing cover, valve covers, water pump housing, rockers, pulleys, brackets, motor mount brackets, alternator, distributor drive gear, yada yada. I think i pulled away over 300$ worth of big block accessories at least. At least compared to what i could buy new, just needs soaked and painted. Just amazes me how the outside looked as nice as a complete engine that sat for 10 years can be, yet the pistons are THIS STUCK. Maybe its a sign to get a 440 after all haha, this time I'll go with a BARE block to not have to do this mess again. Not like im using anything else.

Doesn't mean im not going to try and get these pistons out
 
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Well, title kinda says it, soaked cylinders in MMO for 2 days now, getting impatient as I want to get the ball rolling and the block off to machine shop soon. You guys know how long they take, so sooner out sooner back, and all 8 pistons are in it frozen. Tried air hammer on both sides of the pistons, hammer hammer on wood, big breaker bar, nothing. As referenced by air hammer, dont care about piston and rods, just want the block and preferably the crank. Leading theory in my mind right now is torch/cut out the rods, drill a hole in piston, and give it love with air hammer
Should I be worried though about melted rod hitting my block and messing it up?
I know it sounds crazy, but I have used coke cola as a soak many times with stuck pistons. It has always broken loose for me. I don't know why but I think the coke tales care of stuck rings to bore, but as I said, it has worked probably a half dozen times for me
 
I'm just happy to hear that there is a 17 year old that is into this. You go kid. Best of luck with your build.
 
I'm just happy to hear that there is a 17 year old that is into this. You go kid. Best of luck with your build.
Yeah, its going, sometimes it's tough but I'm trying to make it work. I mean, its what it is as far as money goes and what I can do with it. Not calling anyone out specifically, but its annoying though hearing people repeatedly trying to convince me how stuff that is undoubtedly nice is "what I need". Especially with roller cams. People here are generally not totally against flat tappet, but most people I meet in person are adamant about going full roller. They also are a lot of times adamant about h beam and lightweight pistons like Diamonds and roller rockers. If I followed their advice, hell I'd never have a engine built damn it. I know its a "better" way to do things but is it necessary? I dont make enough to build my car how i would like to as it is, adding more cost isn't possible.

There is some things that just make sense, but sometimes I wonder is it really needed
Thanks to people who offer advice and offer parts free except for shipping, like @Eric Pearson for his rotating assembly that i ended up not getting either way, but for the offer
 
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This is your low cost short cut verses the small block you have, or a used small block short block.

Hard to imagine
 
This is your low cost short cut verses the small block you have, or a used small block short block.

Hard to imagine
I detailed in another post why anything aside from another 340 won't work for me, a 360 won't cut it for parental reasons, long story short. The small block I have is numbers matching, I don't want to even really chance losing the value if it kills itself

Find me a 1500$ 340 short block with forged pistons that's ready to slap in
You dont think i would've if I found one? I've had 1500$ cash in hand at points in time and ive hunted marketplace, craigslist, and classifieds on a 500mi radius for that damn deal since day 1 because ive known what a numbers matching drivetrain is worth

Damn I feel like a broken record, it gets old
 
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Yeah, its going, sometimes it's tough but I'm trying to make it work. I mean, its what it is as far as money goes and what I can do with it. Not calling anyone out specifically, but its annoying though hearing people repeatedly trying to convince me how stuff that is undoubtedly nice is "what I need". Especially with roller cams. People here are generally not totally against flat tappet, but most people I meet in person are adamant about going full roller. They also are a lot of times adamant about h beam and lightweight pistons like Diamonds and roller rockers. If I followed their advice, hell I'd never have a engine built damn it. I know its a "better" way to do things but is it necessary? I dont make enough to build my car how i would like to as it is, adding more cost isn't possible.

There is some things that just make sense, but sometimes I wonder is it really needed
Thanks to people who offer advice and offer parts free except for shipping, like @Eric Pearson for his rotating assembly that i ended up not getting either way, but for the offer
F#%k roller cams. If you read here long enough there are plenty of failures there as well. On the cheap get a good name brand hydraulic flat tappet, recommended valve springs, double roller timing chain and break-in oil. Don’t go snake oil break-in additives. And you don’t need them H-beam rods factory Chrysler rods are forged and probably better than the chinamen sell. Get a quality piston with the tallest compression height you can find. I hope you get the pistons out and the block is serviceable. Get a valve job on them iron heads, steel shim head gaskets, a gasket set. Put it together and enjoy it. Remember it doesnt need to be the fastest or prettiest just drive it and enjoy it.
 
F#%k roller cams. If you read here long enough there are plenty of failures there as well. On the cheap get a good name brand hydraulic flat tappet, recommended valve springs, double roller timing chain and break-in oil. Don’t go snake oil break-in additives. And you don’t need them H-beam rods factory Chrysler rods are forged and probably better than the chinamen sell. Get a quality piston with the tallest compression height you can find. I hope you get the pistons out and the block is serviceable. Get a valve job on them iron heads, steel shim head gaskets, a gasket set. Put it together and enjoy it. Remember it doesnt need to be the fastest or prettiest just drive it and enjoy it.
Thanks for the advice man, best of luck with your builds too
 
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F#%k roller cams. If you read here long enough there are plenty of failures there as well. On the cheap get a good name brand hydraulic flat tappet, recommended valve springs, double roller timing chain and break-in oil. Don’t go snake oil break-in additives. And you don’t need them H-beam rods factory Chrysler rods are forged and probably better than the chinamen sell. Get a quality piston with the tallest compression height you can find. I hope you get the pistons out and the block is serviceable. Get a valve job on them iron heads, steel shim head gaskets, a gasket set. Put it together and enjoy it. Remember it doesnt need to be the fastest or prettiest just drive it and enjoy it.
Yeah those iron heads are done i think. Valve seats? There's only memories of those left on one of the chambers, not to mention one of the exterior bolt holes is cracked. Its hairline, and it doesnt go inside the head. Don't know if that's something that'll be catastrophic. Only reason i even have half of a slight hope for it is that the crack isnt near the inside of the head

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If the pistons are that stuck, how bad do the lifter bores look?
Honestly not bad at all, the lifters kept the bores safe, and I was able to just pop em out. Its weird, you wouldn't expect such a fight from the pistons with everything else that is nice and fine
 
Honestly not bad at all, the lifters kept the bores safe, and I was able to just pop em out. Its weird, you wouldn't expect such a fight from the pistons with everything else that is nice and fine
Sounds good, did it just sit with water in the cylinders?
might try heating and cooling with wax?
 
I know it sounds crazy, but I have used coke cola as a soak many times with stuck pistons. It has always broken loose for me. I don't know why but I think the coke tales care of stuck rings to bore, but as I said, it has worked probably a half dozen times for me

My guess would be the citric acid. Also, household hack but I use it on the exhaust tips of my 2011 Challenger, Coke poured on the part and aluminum foil used as a rag cleans up rust from chrome pretty well: Just think what Coke is doing to your gut...
 
My guess would be the citric acid. Also, household hack but I use it on the exhaust tips of my 2011 Challenger, Coke poured on the part and aluminum foil used as a rag cleans up rust from chrome pretty well: Just think what Coke is doing to your gut...

Well, despite my curiosity, cokes not going to get its shot at freeing up the 383. Already found and picked up a standard bore for now 440 bare block that checks out and im as soon as I can swapping their spots on the engine stand. We forge on the path of the 440
 
Doesn't mean im not going to try and get these pistons out
This is a process I wouldn't normally recommend, but I had your scenario to deal with on a frozen 273 a few years ago. I got the engine in a parts lot and had zero interest in using it. It was massively frozen and I decided to give it a go just for educational purposes - it was going to the scrapper one way or another.

Anyway, I couldn't get the crank out because several of the rod bolts were in such a location it was impossible to get at with any kind of a wrench. I did all the soaking and banging stuff to no avail. Finally I rolled the engine bottom side up and started whaling on the crank counterweights with a BFH. After lots of caveman effort I finally shocked everything loose and was able to get it apart. In retrospect, if I was to do this again with a block and parts I wanted to save, I'd give that a try but use a block of hardwood on the counterweight then get after it with the hammer. I peened some of the counterweights hitting them directly. Again, this worked for me but I'm sure there are better ideas out there.
 
This is a process I wouldn't normally recommend, but I had your scenario to deal with on a frozen 273 a few years ago. I got the engine in a parts lot and had zero interest in using it. It was massively frozen and I decided to give it a go just for educational purposes - it was going to the scrapper one way or another.

Anyway, I couldn't get the crank out because several of the rod bolts were in such a location it was impossible to get at with any kind of a wrench. I did all the soaking and banging stuff to no avail. Finally I rolled the engine bottom side up and started whaling on the crank counterweights with a BFH. After lots of caveman effort I finally shocked everything loose and was able to get it apart. In retrospect, if I was to do this again with a block and parts I wanted to save, I'd give that a try but use a block of hardwood on the counterweight then get after it with the hammer. I peened some of the counterweights hitting them directly. Again, this worked for me but I'm sure there are better ideas out there.
I dunno if this is even gonna work, as the rotational force might not be enough. Remember, I used a 12lb sledge and a chinese long extension and just popped the top off the pistons. I haven't messed with it in a while, but I think im gonna either buy a torch or get a friend to bring one and im gonna cut out the rods, then use a 4x4 and a sledge.
Not to mention i was putting force on ONE piston, not spread across 8.

I might try it, if by miracle the block is saveable its a 1970 HP block so some restorer gotta want money for it, right? Just don't mention all it took to free it
 
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