How to install fiberglass hood

[mrluoto]

Hi everyone! I'm looking for guidance on how to properly install the fiberglass hood pin mount on a Mopar B-Body, as I'm using a hood without hinges. Any tips or pictures would be greatly appreciated!

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Timo Luoto (@mrluoto) • Instagram photos and videos

 

[Bird 426]

The front pin goes in that hole in front of the screw in rubber bumper height adj. Do you have the rear mounts? Can be tricky figuring. You just have to establish a starting point. Probably from the front pins. I would drill small hole on each side, enlarge and or move till you are happy. After you are happy with those, and the hood placement is in position, kinda the same for the rear. The rear mounts will establish where you start the same rear procedure. One thing about fiberglass, you can repair it. Just take your time and come up with a plan. Go slowly. I have a picture of the rear mounts if you need it. They are available.

 

[mrluoto]

Thanks for the detailed advice! That makes sense about the front pin. I don’t have the rear mounts yet, but I appreciate the tips on establishing a starting point. If you could share that picture of the rear mounts, that would be really helpful! I’ll definitely take my time with it.

 

[WileE]

Rear mount bracket is on the hinge hole

 

[Toxic Orange 493]

Here are the rear mounts

A-12 Reproduction Lift Off Hood Brackets - 66-70 Dodge Plymouth B-Body

 

[dvw]

You want to mount the front pins as far forward as possible. 6" back can allow the front of the hood to bend up at speed. Be aware of the structure under the hood before chosing a location. You dont want to be in a rib stucture. Mount the pins. The surface of the hood may require that the pin be angled so it is 90 degrees to the hood surface. This is easily acomplished by sliding a deep well socket over the pin with a long extension. The sheet metal the pin is mounted into will bend slightly aloowing you to square the pin to the hoods surface. Now that the pins are located, make carefull measurements fom the edges of the opening. I suggest during thus step to lower the pins to the hoods surface height for more accuracy. Don't forget to take the hood gap into the equation. Remove the pins. Lay the hood in the opening setting the gaps. Now transfer you measurements. Drill the holes to exact size for the remaining pin. You may have to open the hole a touch to make the hood set where you want. Now install pin 2 and repeat the process. I suggest starting with the front pins. Repeat until all 4 are done. Don't worry if some of the holes are iregular. the pyn trim will cover it. If you look close you will see the front of the hood scoops forward. Theses holes were drilled after paint.
Doug

 

[Bird 426]

What year is your car, model? The holes that I mentioned are where the front pins go, not somewhere else. Yes, you will go through structure reinforcement. If you have a race weight light hood, yes, it can fold the front of the hood up, hope that you have a regular. If not, well, my friend has broken his race weight hood more than once. I wouldn't drill one hole up to size and then do the other, I did mine both at the same time. Yes, if things get off a little, the SS base cover will cover the mistake, unless you are really off. I had an advantage on my Dart, I used hinges with light springs. Was easy to get it located before I started drilling the holes up. Here's a couple of pictures of my A 12 factory hood. It's in kinda rough shape, shot at and missed, **** at it and hit. Trying to repair to the best of my fiberglass ability! I know enough to be dangerous, did alot of fiberglass work on an airplane that I built. As you can see, the pins do go through the reinforcement structure. Not that I want to, but going back to 4 pins, the hinges were tearing the corners up from too heavy of spring. Was going to use a prop rod, but decided not to, back to the 4 pin. Hey, can I get hand to take my hood off?

 

[mrluoto]

Thanks for the clarification! My car is a 1971 Satellite. I understand now that the holes for the front pins go through the reinforcement structure. I appreciate the advice about drilling both holes at the same time; that makes sense. Your A12 factory hood looks interesting, and I admire your fiberglass skills! My hood is lighter. Also, I’d love to see those rear mount pictures when you get a chance!

 

[mrluoto]

You want to mount the front pins as far forward as possible. 6" back can allow the front of the hood to bend up at speed. Be aware of the structure under the hood before chosing a location. You dont want to be in a rib stucture. Mount the pins. The surface of the hood may require that the pin be angled so it is 90 degrees to the hood surface. This is easily acomplished by sliding a deep well socket over the pin with a long extension. The sheet metal the pin is mounted into will bend slightly aloowing you to square the pin to the hoods surface. Now that the pins are located, make carefull measurements fom the edges of the opening. I suggest during thus step to lower the pins to the hoods surface height for more accuracy. Don't forget to take the hood gap into the equation. Remove the pins. Lay the hood in the opening setting the gaps. Now transfer you measurements. Drill the holes to exact size for the remaining pin. You may have to open the hole a touch to make the hood set where you want. Now install pin 2 and repeat the process. I suggest starting with the front pins. Repeat until all 4 are done. Don't worry if some of the holes are iregular. the pyn trim will cover it. If you look close you will see the front of the hood scoops forward. Theses holes were drilled

Thanks, Doug! That's really helpful advice about mounting the front pins as far forward as possible. I appreciate the tip on ensuring the pins are at a 90-degree angle to the hood surface; I'll definitely use a deep well socket for that. I’ll be careful with my measurements and consider the hood gap as well. It's good to know that any irregular holes will be covered by the trim. I’ll start with the front pins as you suggested. Thanks again for the detailed instructions.

 

[dvw]

Here's my mounts. The rears are simple 1/8" aluminum L shape. Didn't know if they would be strong enough at the time they were fabbed. But 13 years and 1250 passes later they are fine.
Doug

 

[Bird 426]

#7 is the rear mount. Do you need more?
Both sides seem to be the same, no hole drilling they bolt right in. Guessing that mine are the aftermarket ones that can be bought . Mega Parts carries them.

 

[mrluoto]

Here's my mounts. The rears are simple 1/8" aluminum L shape. Didn't know if they would be strong enough at the time they were fabbed. But 13 years and 1250 passes later they are fine.
Doug

View attachment 1960497

View attachment 1960498

Great pics. Thank you Doug

 

[mrluoto]

The front pin goes in that hole in front of the screw in rubber bumper height adj. Do you have the rear mounts? Can be tricky figuring. You just have to establish a starting point. Probably from the front pins. I would drill small hole on each side, enlarge and or move till you are happy. After you are happy with those, and the hood placement is in position, kinda the same for the rear. The rear mounts will establish where you start the same rear procedure. One thing about fiberglass, you can repair it. Just take your time and come up with a plan. Go slowly. I have a picture of the rear mounts if you need it. They are available.

View attachment 1960276

Great picture. Thank you