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How to make old Mopars better?

A must indeed.
Lol - my '63 had four ash trays with the original console, now only has three. I found a leather console out of a Lincoln at a swap meet for 10 bucks thinking it had some upgrading potential. It has an idiot light bar I rewired for headlights, brake lights, and turn signals (dash has only ONE pencil head size turn signal indicator). A bud machined a gauge plate and cup holder insert from scrap aluminum (holder was fun grinding/radiusing it to set right in the triangular spot where a tray was). Added two more gauges, and painted it to match the interior. Has a deep glove compartment and a rest for right elbow. Being a coffee addict it was a nice option. Another thanks to Nacho helping me figure out light bar wiring.

Ply Console L.jpg Console 1 pic Plymouth.jpg
 
Also a coffee addict.:lol: my van has no console and I buy one big *** mug holder for cheap, can't. Have a nice morning with at least half a litter of coffee.
 
Lol - my '63 had four ash trays with the original console, now only has three. I found a leather console out of a Lincoln at a swap meet for 10 bucks thinking it had some upgrading potential. It has an idiot light bar I rewired for headlights, brake lights, and turn signals (dash has only ONE pencil head size turn signal indicator). A bud machined a gauge plate and cup holder insert from scrap aluminum (holder was fun grinding/radiusing it to set right in the triangular spot where a tray was). Added two more gauges, and painted it to match the interior. Has a deep glove compartment and a rest for right elbow. Being a coffee addict it was a nice option. Another thanks to Nacho helping me figure out light bar wiring.

View attachment 1173754 View attachment 1173755
What year Lincoln?
 
Nice upgrade. Always good to have a place for a drink.
More of a challenge with a 4 gear.
 
I forgot all about that car! We called it the Lincoln Granada.
Lol, yeah - wasn't the most memorable car...more like forgettable. Found the Phord logo underneath so began the hunt to find out what it was out of and took a while before coming across it. Had it on a garage shelf for 10 years before getting the urge to finally do it. All sorts of futzing and fabbing to do it but I'm pretty happy how it ended up.
 
Lol, yeah - wasn't the most memorable car...more like forgettable. Found the Phord logo underneath so began the hunt to find out what it was out of and took a while before coming across it. Had it on a garage shelf for 10 years before getting the urge to finally do it. All sorts of futzing and fabbing to do it but I'm pretty happy how it ended up.
Hey, it looks very functional and for the price you scored big. It's the Lincoln buddy seat.
 
Replacing the wiring is second after brakes. Nothing else matters if your car burns to the ground from old cracked wires shorting out.
 
It depends on what "better" is, safer? Faster? etc.

But if better stands for more fun to drive then def steering/suspension is the thing to upgrade.
 
A reliable engine. Nothing worse than having to pop the hood in the grocery store parking lot with your ice cream melting.
I usually get the motor running really well before I concentrate on anything else. Then I work my way out, brakes (lines too), suspension, tires, etc.
 
Thin metric rings on short pistons and a stroked crank.
Hydraulic roller cam
CNC ported heads (any porting, including intake!)
Fwd pattern manual valvebody that does away with kickdown
Subframe connectors
Lightweight disc brakes
Nitrous!
Cal-trac split monos and traction aids
Adjustable shocks

I've done all of the above. Car drives like a dream cruising around and feels like a train hits you from behind when using 250 shot. Virtually no downside other than the spool is a PITA in tight parking spots.
 
Best upgrades to make an old Mopar more enjoyable.

Disk brakes.
O.D. transmission (TKO 600 or T56 for me).
Fuel system upgrade.
Complete suspension overhaul.


That's where I'd spend my money. Fuel system upgrade.. what I'm referring to is the vapor lock issue that's so prevalent today with ethenol fuel. Insulate the carb (phenolic spacer) and run an electric fuel pump with a return style regulator.. this should almost completely take care of those issues. This has been my #1 headache, I've done everything except the electric pump and return line but still have the occasional vapor lock in stopped traffic. Very embarrassing and frustrating!
Cant wait for the vapor lock if it is there.
 
Cant wait for the vapor lock if it is there.
I run a phenolic spacer and vapor lock is virtually non-existent. It will still boil the fuel in the carb bowls after shutting it off and heat soaking, but typically fires right up if you give it a second.
Run as thick of a spacer as you can. A friend also has a metal shield under his carb that directs the heat away from the carb as it rises off the engine. Seems to work well.
 
I run a phenolic spacer and vapor lock is virtually non-existent. It will still boil the fuel in the carb bowls after shutting it off and heat soaking, but typically fires right up if you give it a second.
Run as thick of a spacer as you can. A friend also has a metal shield under his carb that directs the heat away from the carb as it rises off the engine. Seems to work well.
Old school is always fun.
 
I drive out in the sticks,I just tell myself it don't quite as quick. New brake lines and MS always.
I always get a new gas tank and pickup. Blowout the hard line with air.
Replace needed front suspension.
We are in the South. We don't buy projects with rusted frames, sheetmetal yes. 2 x 3 in frame connector welded in.
You must have something to sit on that does not hurt or make your *** end hurt or bleed.
Rear springs sagging. Buy need or rearch. New shocks.
Check all wiring and new eng. harness repop if needed.
Engine woreout. Pay for a rebuild. If like me, look for a better old one!
If this takes you more than a week, you are TOO slow!!
 
I drive out in the sticks,I just tell myself it don't quite as quick. New brake lines and MS always.
I always get a new gas tank and pickup. Blowout the hard line with air.
Replace needed front suspension.
We are in the South. We don't buy projects with rusted frames, sheetmetal yes. 2 x 3 in frame connector welded in.
You must have something to sit on that does not hurt or make your *** end hurt or bleed.
Rear springs sagging. Buy need or rearch. New shocks.
Check all wiring and new eng. harness repop if needed.
Engine woreout. Pay for a rebuild. If like me, look for a better old one!
If this takes you more than a week, you are TOO slow!!
Been a year so slow is the way.
 
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