How To Remove Small Block From '72 BBody: Level or Jacked?

[Dibbons]

The 318 is all loose and ready to remove. My only question now is whether to pull it jacked up like it is (so I could disconnect the torque convertor) or bring it back down on it's tires again?

I realize either option will require me to find some way or other to support the automatic transmission.

Thank you.

 

[Don Frelier]

If you can lift it high enough you can leave the car as it sits.
You may not find out until you almost get it out of there though...
But...
It is a bit frightening to have an engine suspended so high and then move the hoist around.
Looks like you have nice flat concrete to work on so that is a huge plus!

Did you support the transmission?
It's going to want to drop in the front when you get the engine free of the locating dowels.

 

[70chall440]

You can "probably" pull it as you have it but as mentioned you are going to have to get the engine pretty high to clear. I would recommend that you get the engine loose and free as the car sits now which gives you room under the car to crawl under and pry or push. I would use a floor jack under the trans (with a board across the pan) until the engine is free, then you can run a strap between the T bars to hold the trans up.

Once the engine free and you have the trans held by a strap (chain, rope, etc.), then lower the car down, jack up and remove the engine. Installation is reverse of this.

 

[Don Frelier]

Usually if everything is disconnected you can just hook a hoist to it and lift it out.
The dowel pins should be the only thing to break free and they only require 1/4" of movement.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: This is how I proceeded. I lowered the vehicle back down to the ground. Placed blocks under the transmission oil pan to support it in its current state. Tried to slide the cherry picker under the chassis but found it interfering with suspension and the torsion bar adjusting bolts.

Aired up the front tires from 20 lbs to 50 lbs (51 max. printed on front tires) This gave me almost enough clearance. Then stopped to think for awhile.

Decided to place some small squared of wood under the front tires to gain just enough clearance for the cherry picker. So jacked the vehilcle front tires off the ground and slid in the wooden spacers. Then had to add more spacers to the transmission which was raised a bit at the same time.

Then finally began to raise the motor out. I freed itself from the passenger side of the block, but not the driver's side. After wiggling a few times I found yet another bell housing bolt located above the starter. Once that bolt was removed, both sides broke free. I raised the cherry picker just enough to clear the header panel (which was 12 3/4 inches of the chrome hydraulic tube sticking out of the jack portion). I will need more clearance upon installation because the Kevko oil pan I am using is deeper than the stock pan. I noticed the bottom of the stock pan is concave now (lots of speed bumps here in Mexico).

I used a pair of vice grips to hopefully hold the torque converter in place.

 

[Runcharger]

Ratchet strap between the t-bars is handy for securing the trans as well and allows you to roll the body front and back if required.