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Hydraulic roller rocker cam setup

Hacker67RT

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Joined
Dec 31, 2025
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Location
Ghent Ky
438 Stroker kit .30 over
Eldelbrock easy street heads
Headers
750 carb

Hey guys, I am wanting to upgrade to roller hydraulic cam lifters rockers..

Looking for best combo that has worked for yall!!
 
Welcome to the site say hi in the welcome section.

Roller rockers? Or hydraulic roller lifters.
Or both??
 
This is going to turn into a lot more than cam and lifters. Spec a cam and valve springs, then roller lifters, pushrods, roller rockers and shafts, geometry kit, bronze oil pump /gear shaft, good timing set and timing cover/thrust button set up.
 
This is going to turn into a lot more than cam and lifters. Spec a cam and valve springs, then roller lifters, pushrods, roller rockers and shafts, geometry kit, bronze oil pump /gear shaft, good timing set and timing cover/thrust button set up.

Be prepared to spend $2500-3000 in parts(depending on exactly what you decide on for lifters and rockers), then add in any labor for anything you can’t do yourself.

Plus, you’re going to need to spell out all the details about the car and how it will be getting used……. To help nail down the cam selection itself.
 
My set up may be somewhat similar to what you're looking for (maybe). 400 +.030, standard stroke (so it's only 408ish), RPM Performer heads, 10.5:1 CR, DP4B intake, comp cams XR292HR-10, comp cams magnum roller lifters, 440 source full roller rockers. Has a rough idle, doesn't make a lot of vacuum at idle. The valve train is quiet, no noise like some folks talk about (don't know if that is unique or not). MSD distributor, MSD-6AL ignition, 26 degrees adv at idle, 43 by 2500 RPM. It makes RPM's instantly (haven't taken it past 6500, yet), and roasts the tires at will, internally balanced, FTI 3600 TC. Haven't had it on the track with slicks yet, that will be this coming season.
 
Be prepared to spend $2500-3000 in parts(depending on exactly what you decide on for lifters and rockers), then add in any labor for anything you can’t do yourself.

Plus, you’re going to need to spell out all the details about the car and how it will be getting used……. To help nail down the cam selection itself.
I’m OK with spending the money and I plan on doing all the work myself I built the motor.. it’s a 69 super Bee, 4 speed, 355 sure grip and mostly just for show and get out and drive on nice days, but looking to get close to 500 horse. It has the MSD distributor and the 6AL box.
 
My set up may be somewhat similar to what you're looking for (maybe). 400 +.030, standard stroke (so it's only 408ish), RPM Performer heads, 10.5:1 CR, DP4B intake, comp cams XR292HR-10, comp cams magnum roller lifters, 440 source full roller rockers. Has a rough idle, doesn't make a lot of vacuum at idle. The valve train is quiet, no noise like some folks talk about (don't know if that is unique or not). MSD distributor, MSD-6AL ignition, 26 degrees adv at idle, 43 by 2500 RPM. It makes RPM's instantly (haven't taken it past 6500, yet), and roasts the tires at will, internally balanced, FTI 3600 TC. Haven't had it on the track with slicks yet, that will be this coming season.
Yes sir! Sounds similar. My compression is 10.3 to one.. along with the Msd as well
 
My set up may be somewhat similar to what you're looking for (maybe). 400 +.030, standard stroke (so it's only 408ish), RPM Performer heads, 10.5:1 CR, DP4B intake, comp cams XR292HR-10, comp cams magnum roller lifters, 440 source full roller rockers. Has a rough idle, doesn't make a lot of vacuum at idle. The valve train is quiet, no noise like some folks talk about (don't know if that is unique or not). MSD distributor, MSD-6AL ignition, 26 degrees adv at idle, 43 by 2500 RPM. It makes RPM's instantly (haven't taken it past 6500, yet), and roasts the tires at will, internally balanced, FTI 3600 TC. Haven't had it on the track with slicks yet, that will be this coming season.
I'm curious as to why you're at 43 degrees total timing since most BB Mopars with Edelbrock heads seem to make peak power around 35-36 degrees.
 
In addition to the other's questions... What are your current cam specs and are you looking to change them... such as you want more duration, more or less LSA, more lift, etc.?

Where I see a lot of this start to become an issue is with the heads concerning lift and springs having issues with the potential aggressiveness of the lobe, which is/can be much more with a roller. Combine that with the potential use of 1.6 rockers (not sure if that is on the table) and P2V is a real potential, especially at RPM.

I guess my only real question is: why are you converting to roller? Don't get me wrong, I can argue rollers over flat for days... they are MUCH better. But converting to roller can get a bit involved if you're looking for huge power gains. For example, if you're going from a 450HP setup and want a HP bump and like the idea of having a roller, and the cam specs aren't super different... and not looking for high RPM performance... then I'd say you're good to go without much other changes. But if you're at 325HP now looking for 500, then that's going to mean different specs on the cam and then that could lead to other changes to the head, such as springs, cutting guides, and testing for P2V... all simple, but take time and money.
 
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