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Hydro Brake Booster score!

Triple Black 73

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On a previous thread I asked for help about weak brakes. You guys recommended getting a different brake master cylinder. Well, today I picked up a hydro brake booster on trade.

Not sure who makes it or what model it is. It has the marking of "GL10" and "2798" on the booster. The ports are 1/2" double flare. Not sure what master cylinder that is. Maybe someone knows?

The main question if have is what kind of linkage do I need to attach to the stock brake pedal?

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And a before:
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Trust me your gonna love that hydro booster !! installed one on the satellite and that bitch Stop's on a Frick'n dime, No **** it'll make the passenger seat go flying forward, thankfully no one was in it !!! Lol
 
Trust me your gonna love that hydro booster !! installed one on the satellite and that bitch Stop's on a Frick'n dime, No **** it'll make the passenger seat go flying forward, thankfully no one was in it !!! Lol

Heck yeah! That is what I want to hear!

Based on what I read so far, the stock system is lucky to produce 700 psi, or 1200 psi with a 15/16" master cylinder. This hydro system should produce over 2600 PSI of passenger flying through the car braking pressure! That's a hell of a lot of stopping force! With a 34mm bore master cylinder no less! HECK YEAH!

I found the brake linkage, a line kit, and a cooler from Summit Racing for less than two Bens. I'll need to make an adapter bracket for the firewall mount. It's just two plates, a spacer, and some bolts. This should be an affordable and fun little project.
 
I would sell the items on eBay and use the money to buy a hydro-boost kit made for cars. They were optional on many GM vans like the "Astro-van" Just like doing a power disc brake upgrade from manual drums, many companies sell complete kits with all required hardware. No fabricating or guess work. Get a matching setup instead of a Frankenstein cluster of parts. You will be glad that you did.
 
I would sell the items on eBay and use the money to buy a hydro-boost kit made for cars. They were optional on many GM vans like the "Astro-van" Just like doing a power disc brake upgrade from manual drums, many companies sell complete kits with all required hardware. No fabricating or guess work. Get a matching setup instead of a Frankenstein cluster of parts. You will be glad that you did.

Why? This unit is beefier than the hot rod stuff and more standard than the automotive stuff. The headaches will be finding the special fittings for the Mopar stuff.
 
On a previous thread I asked for help about weak brakes. You guys recommended getting a different brake master cylinder. Well, today I picked up a hydro brake booster on trade.

Not sure who makes it or what model it is. It has the marking of "GL10" and "2798" on the booster. The ports are 1/2" double flare. Not sure what master cylinder that is. Maybe someone knows?

The main question if have is what kind of linkage do I need to attach to the stock brake pedal?

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And a before:
View attachment 514723
You'll really like the unit but there are some things you should do before mounting:
1- Under no circumstances try to pull the push rod out
2- Separate the master because you don't know if it will work with your brake
configuration. You still need a disk/drum, drum/drum master @ about 1 /1/4+ bore.
3- Remove the locking ring for the mounting plate (pipe wrench) to flip the plate. This
flips the unit 180 degrees and puts all the hydraulic lines to the underside (tidy look)
The plate is keyed (probably) so file the tab off to rotate it.
4- Mount the master after the booster. It's easier to connect the lines and mount booster.
5- Regardless of what you read do not tie the return lines from the booster and power
unit together using a Tee. Have a separate return port on the reservoir of the PS pump
or buy a rebuilt Saginaw that already has two return nipples. You cannot have the
return from one unit backing up into the return line from the other which can happen
when using a tee.
6- Have a hydraulic shop make your lines using steel JIC fittings and ORB ends if
necessary.You can use the line you have and they will cut and remount the fitting
on one end for custom length line. The JIC fittings that go in the unit come in
straight, 45,90,135 degree configurations to keep the lines neat and tucked under.
7- Find or have a coupling sleeve made for the rod on the unit so you can shorten or
lengthen the rod to the pedal arm. Mine is left/right so turning it changes the rod
length while attached to the brake pedal arm. Don't forget locking nuts. Use a rod
end at the brake pedal arm if possible for fine adjustment tuning.
8- These units are very powerful so pedal ratio is very important. Information is online
and sometimes the arm has to be modified or replaced especially where the mounting
pin or hole in the arm is located. Although they stop the car with ease you'll want
more than just a 1/4 inch of travel in the arm to do this. If the brakes are to sensitive
you've got the wrong pedal ratio.
9- You only need the cooler in the return line between the steering box and pump.

If you have any questions or would like to see my installed unit PM me. Mines been on for two and a half years without issue. Remember, do it once, do it right because these are very powerful units working under 1300+ PSI of hydraulic fluid.
 
You'll really like the unit but there are some things you should do before mounting:
1- Under no circumstances try to pull the push rod out
2- Separate the master because you don't know if it will work with your brake
configuration. You still need a disk/drum, drum/drum master @ about 1 /1/4+ bore.
3- Remove the locking ring for the mounting plate (pipe wrench) to flip the plate. This
flips the unit 180 degrees and puts all the hydraulic lines to the underside (tidy look)
The plate is keyed (probably) so file the tab off to rotate it.
4- Mount the master after the booster. It's easier to connect the lines and mount booster.
5- Regardless of what you read do not tie the return lines from the booster and power
unit together using a Tee. Have a separate return port on the reservoir of the PS pump
or buy a rebuilt Saginaw that already has two return nipples. You cannot have the
return from one unit backing up into the return line from the other which can happen
when using a tee.
6- Have a hydraulic shop make your lines using steel JIC fittings and ORB ends if
necessary.You can use the line you have and they will cut and remount the fitting
on one end for custom length line. The JIC fittings that go in the unit come in
straight, 45,90,135 degree configurations to keep the lines neat and tucked under.
7- Find or have a coupling sleeve made for the rod on the unit so you can shorten or
lengthen the rod to the pedal arm. Mine is left/right so turning it changes the rod
length while attached to the brake pedal arm. Don't forget locking nuts. Use a rod
end at the brake pedal arm if possible for fine adjustment tuning.
8- These units are very powerful so pedal ratio is very important. Information is online
and sometimes the arm has to be modified or replaced especially where the mounting
pin or hole in the arm is located. Although they stop the car with ease you'll want
more than just a 1/4 inch of travel in the arm to do this. If the brakes are to sensitive
you've got the wrong pedal ratio.
9- You only need the cooler in the return line between the steering box and pump.

If you have any questions or would like to see my installed unit PM me. Mines been on for two and a half years without issue. Remember, do it once, do it right because these are very powerful units working under 1300+ PSI of hydraulic fluid.

I'm PM you then do a write up in here.
 
I'm PM you then do a write up in here.
Hey,

This is a long shot since this thread is 6ish years old, but i'm looking at doing this upgrade to my 69' Superbee but it seems as though most of the smaller companies doing these have stopped and Hydratech is now the only one in the game. Do you have a write up on what you actually did, or recall how you pieced it all together? Any info/tips/tricks you learned along the way would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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