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If they are not the same, they are pretty damn close!!!
WTB I am in the beginning stage of looking for a 1968 Superbee to purchase.
- Thread starter Bart K
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Yes, I have seen that one, and it is a nice car with a good price, but I want to real 1968 WM21 Super Bee if at all possible. If it proves impossible, I might go for a different model of 68 Coronet or even a 69 Super Bee. I have only been looking for a couple of months, so I am good to hang on for a while and see what comes up, but thank you very much for the tip! It is greatly appreciated!!!
Mr. PNW
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A lot of work or a lot of parts. Those power bulge hoods are hard to come by. It says sale pending $7,500.
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1968 Coronet 500 Factory 383 4bbl, 3.23 Sure Grip, Power bulge hood, Medium blue with white vinyl top, Blue and white interior, Comes with a new quarters and trunk floor inner fenders. Have extra fenders and Door along with a better trunk lid. i have a std bore 1968 383 block that goes with it. Clean title in my name. Floors are super solid.
1968 Coronet 500 Factory 383 4bbl, 3.23 Sure Grip, Power bulge hood, Medium blue with white vinyl top, Blue and white interior, Comes with a new quarters and trunk floor inner fenders. Have extra fenders and Door along with a better trunk lid. i have a std bore 1968 383 block that goes with it. Clean title in my name. Floors are super solid.
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I've looked at it several times. I'm not opposed to clones in the marketplace, but not really interested in a 318 clone. I still want a big block B Body. I appreciate you sharing the car ad.
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OK guys, just came across this one. I do see some rust in the rear quarters and he does show a pretty big scratch in the driver door bottom in to the body, but the price is decent. What do you all think? 1968 Dodge super bee
Numbers matching with build sheet and original Certicard and owners manual from original purchase. New rims and tires with extra parts Car was repainted in the 90’s Body numbers and radiator support match vin and build sheet. The car has only been driven 1300 miles since 2004. Bought to restore but plans have changed. Have more pics if wanted
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Numbers matching with build sheet and original Certicard and owners manual from original purchase. New rims and tires with extra parts Car was repainted in the 90’s Body numbers and radiator support match vin and build sheet. The car has only been driven 1300 miles since 2004. Bought to restore but plans have changed. Have more pics if wanted
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Not as nice as the red one. The rust bubbles in the rocker would worry me. The dash and cluster looks old and worn. I would much rather pay a little more for a rust free, clean car with decent paint, than be facing a $25k bill for body repair and repaint to satisfy afterwards buyers remorse. Limited video is not enough to really evaluate the car
oldchevelle541
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Agreed
Mr. PNW
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Nothing showing the underside or trunk floor, which will reveals a lot about any rust issue.The engine bay looks like a quick paint cover up, with painted wire harness and wiper motor. Might be the same with the body paint.
Well I'm going to be in the minority here and recommend a buy. It's a honest driver at a fair price. (disclaimer Bart sent me a 300MB video of the car idling)
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Definitely not as nice as the red one, but remember the red one was $23k more and it was red and a 4 speed, neither of which I wanted. Also, I am looking for a driver, not a car where every rock chip is gonna make me soil my panties. Remember, the red one had a paint mismatch issue on the driver door and behind the stripe on the driver rear quarter. I mean it was not bad, but it was there. I saw the rust bubbles in front of the tires on the rear quarters as well as the scratch on the passenger door and fender, but for the price, I can live with that and get those issues addressed over time. The owner told me that the owner before him had the trunk pan replaced, and apparently the owner and his wife had a big fight about painting the car white. Thank God that did not happen, but apparently they did pull the engine and painted the bay white because that owner thought that would look better. So that may be why there is some funkiness with the engine bay paint work. Anyhow, you all know how it went back in the day, people modified their cars to what they thought looked cool. People are still doing that to cars today. Some mods I like and some I certainly not do to my car! I am working on arranging an appraisal, and if nothing earth-shattering is found, I think I am going to pull the trigger on this one. Here are some under car pics and video.
I guess it is not going to let me attach the video, I will try on a different message.
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autoxcuda
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Body number on radiator support and trunk lip should be the SO number not the VIN.
SO number is on fender tag and buildsheet. So check that.
Is the motor and trans numbers matching? Those match the vin.
Pictures were taken not in direct sunlight. That is giving the TT1 med green paint a darker look. Here’s some pics of it in direct sunlight: 1968 TT1 green?
SO number is on fender tag and buildsheet. So check that.
Is the motor and trans numbers matching? Those match the vin.
Pictures were taken not in direct sunlight. That is giving the TT1 med green paint a darker look. Here’s some pics of it in direct sunlight: 1968 TT1 green?
I thought 1968 model year was not straightforward to prove engine and transmission numbers matching?
Anyhow I watched the video and knowing what I know about finding these cars in this price range I still say it's a good buy. Getting an appraisal is a smart thing to do to see if the car is represented accurately.
I hope this one works out.
Anyhow I watched the video and knowing what I know about finding these cars in this price range I still say it's a good buy. Getting an appraisal is a smart thing to do to see if the car is represented accurately.
I hope this one works out.
oldchevelle541
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Agreed, the first photo I ask to see if online is the trunk floor without any trunk mat present and underside. That tells a lot about any car.
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Description of this car reminds me of my third GTX, which I bought in 1991 for $10,000. One owner factory A/C car with column auto, original sheet metal, 97, 000 miles. One 14 year old re-paint. Car had been garaged all it's life, which preserved the trunk floor. Surface rust in trunk, but no pinholes or structural issues. The GTX had rust bubbles in the same section of the driver's side wheel lip as this Dodge, and the lower driver's fender, where debris had trapped moisture in the support brace.
I cut both sections out after I bought the car. Fender hole the size of a quarter, hole at the wheel lip was the size of my thumb. I patched both spots with fiberglass, coated them from motor oil and WD40 from the inside. The repairs still looked good seven years later when I sold the car. There were no other rust issues, A/C blew cold the whole time, never had to charge it.
The car in question seems like a good candidate for a hands on inspection. Even a sound B body will show issues in the areas mentioned if it hasn't been restored.
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