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I need help

Lofty goals, hope your wallet is full as all those mods will probably cost $70-100k since you are paying a shop. While huge HP engines sound cool and are fun for a while as others said they can be tempermental and not so "driver" friendly in the long term. Make sure of what you want and can live with before you go all out.
 
The bolt in stuff is fairly straightforward. One thing to remember or be mindful of is that you are dealing with an old car. You have to finesse things quite a bit. Brute force is not your friend. Think of it like this. You have grandparents, uncles/aunts etc that may not be very limber/are creaky/aches/pains etc. They don't do well when they get yanked around. May break something.
Probably your biggest challenge/expenditure will be body issues, outer panels/inner panels/floors/frame rails etc. Those are the biggest expenditures to deal with for correction and repair. What shape is you car in on those avenues? These issues take quite a bit of time and skills to do.
How are your mechanical skills? How well are you set tool/equipment wise? Can you weld/fabricate? If the skill level sucks, get some education to make them unsuck. The more you can do on your ride, the better for you and save money. If you lack skills, do you have skills in other areas that you can do labor trades with? Very helpful.
 
Welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras
 
Thank you everyone,

TL;DR
Thank you very much everyone for giving me some insight on where/how to start. The car had old parts that needed to be replaced and still would stall out, but turned out it was a wiring issue so I bought a new wiring kit and it runs fine. My next install will be the borgeson steering box and some wilwood brakes.

I appreciate all this advice and GREAT starting points. I've been able to drive the car for about 3 months and had the car for roughly a year and a half. For the longest time the car would turn over and run for about 30 seconds and stall out completely. I searched for days what could be the problem and I came across a forum that had a list of possibilities but the one that came up the most was a grounding issue somewhere. I pulled up the wiring schematic page and it was a foreign language haha. With the knowledge that I do know, I took the dash off and tried following majority of the wires and everything seemed ok just old wiring. At first I thought it was the distributor because 1: it was old and 2: the connector was worn and broken. So I replaced the distributor with the same off brand the previous owner put in and nothing. So I bought the American classic wiring kit and had it installed. I've been driving it ever since with no issue other than the steering feels loose. I like that you all are very helpful usually I just post questions on Facebook pages and you get all types of responses. I didn't want to get to over my head and my next step would be to do something about the steering, then brakes. I've read a lot about the borgesons steering box that a lot of other mopar enthusiasts use and had good reviews. For the brakes I definitely wanted wilwood brakes.
I'm going to comment on your plan to jump into changing out the steering box "because the steering feels loose"... Have you checked the steering linkage components for wear yet? I would be willing to bet that you will find a worn out idler arm or some worn tie rod ends. They wear out much quicker than the original Mopar steering boxes. Have someone yank the wheel firmly back and forth with engine off while you lay on the ground and watch the steering linkage for "slop" or excessive loose movement. Report back to this thread what you see.....
 
Welcome from Alabama, it's a great project as it is. There been a lot of good advice shared on your intentions. We have no idea what your budget is, that you can actually afford to do right now. Along with your intended upgrades, you also need to plan a time-line and budget. We are all guilty of exceeding our budgets and time-line and even with my experience this is a large list and expensive one, as well as time consuming. Dream big, but be realistic. Small steps accomplish big dreams one step at a time.
 
Welcome from New Zealand.

When I got my current car ('72 Satellite) I planed to upgrade and completely refurbish the original interior with new everything including bucket seats. Then I thought about how I don't care (too much) about the kids dripping ice-cream on the back seat of the current interior. I thought about how my wife likes to sit in the centre of the bench seat so she can snuggle up to me while we drive. And I thought about how I love that funky '70s smell that only an original interior can offer. I've never had thoughts of a new interior since.


If that was my car I would just drive it and enjoy it for what it is. 'Upgrade' is a subjective word and I think your car is perfect just the way it is...and of course I don't have tens of thousands of dollars to "upgrade".
 
Learn, learn, learn all you can, before you burn, burn, burn through all your cash. Look into a local vocational school for classes in automotive troubleshooting. You learn how to read a multimeter and electrical schematics you will save a bundle in repair shop labor dollars, and replacing parts that didn’t need to be replaced. Fill your library before you fill your garage.
Best of luck. You will have fun years ahead.
P.S. Locate reputable garages and mechanics for working on your pride and joy. Trust me and everyone on this forum, there are a lot of bull shitters and hacks out there.
 
Hello again, I will be sending in some more pictures of the 68 charger. I was getting the gear ratio and I believe it to be 3.55 ( I marked the driveshaft and tire and spun it 10 times) but I had noticed this stamp on the differential. I'm not sure what that means. During this process I asked myself, would I need to switch the axles and differentials if I want switch the auto trans to the TKX 5 speed?
20221226_141443.jpg
 
Hello again, I will be sending in some more pictures of the 68 charger. I was getting the gear ratio and I believe it to be 3.55 ( I marked the driveshaft and tire and spun it 10 times) but I had noticed this stamp on the differential. I'm not sure what that means. During this process I asked myself, would I need to switch the axles and differentials if I want switch the auto trans to the TKX 5 speed?View attachment 1392598

Look on the differential cover, there should be a tag under one of the bolts that will have the gear ratio on it.

If you are made of the kind of money it takes to do the mods you want, possibly consider finding a 68 Charger that already has that stuff done. I doubt you'll come out ahead on $'s by paying a shop to modify your base car, and the work certainly won't get done overnight.

FWIW I would not want to daily a cop magnet.
 
Look on the differential cover, there should be a tag under one of the bolts that will have the gear ratio on it.

If you are made of the kind of money it takes to do the mods you want, possibly consider finding a 68 Charger that already has that stuff done. I doubt you'll come out ahead on $'s by paying a shop to modify your base car, and the work certainly won't get done overnight.

FWIW I would not want to daily a cop magnet.
Thank you, I would like to be able to do what I can and possibly learn a little something. I have the funds, the time, and an idea of what I'd like. I didn't want to dive head first into a sea of a new hobby that I don't really know too to much about but this forum has given me a good starting point. I got some new tires and wheels coming in and will be making a better brake purchase hopefully this week.
 
Honestly, for the parts you want to put on this car, you need to take every single thing off the car and do a full rotisserie restoration (and expect it to be off the road for multiple years). It doesn't make any sense to throw 10 grand into the suspension and maybe 30k or more into the motor plus the cost of labour and stick it all on a chassis that hasn't been touched since it rolled off the assembly line. I bet you are looking at more than subframe connectors too - 71 440 Chargers at least had extra chassis reinforcements that 318 cars didn't get.

As someone else pointed out, will a base 318 car be worth the money you plan to put into it? Or will you take a big loss? If you look around at what's on the market, maybe you can find a guy who has to take a big loss on what he built. Than you win all the way around.

You said something about putting a Borgeson steering box in - but the QA1 Level 3 suspension includes rack and pinion steering.

There's some debate on the forum about the virtue of coil over suspension conversions vs the factory leaf spring and torsion bar system. Personally, I don't see the value of the coil over suspension. If you want to corner-carve, well, you just spent enough money on suspension to get a C4 or maybe a C5 Corvette. If you can have more than one car, I think that makes far more sense than one do-it-all supercar that's going to get miles on it. Get a Corvette for your performance kicks and do maintenance and reasonable upgrades to the Charger. I agree with the Borgeson steering box and replacing the pitman arm, idler arm, and end links. PST has solid adjusting sleeves that would be worth getting - Link. I went with the 11/16" sleeves and the C-body end links that go with them.

Modern brakes are a good choice but it can get complicated fast. I haven't thought about it in a while but I'm pretty sure the master cylinder has to be changed as well if converting to discs. Or maybe it's the metering block (or both?). I'm not sure about the lines, but your lines are 54 years old. For the cost of new lines, why put your life on the line with the old ones? You're also going to be looking at adding a proportioning valve and getting that set right.

It goes on and on - expect to take years learning this stuff and building your car up. I've spent 3 years on my 72 and it's still on jack stands. A lot of the time went into cleaning and refinishing. Not even bolting new parts on, just taking off boring existing stuff with surface rust, cleaning it off and repainting.
 
Welcome from Michigan........ patience patience.

Good Luck on the build! :thumbsup:
 
Welcome to the club! Let's get some more pic's of the car. Do you have the fender tag and or build sheet.

Personally, I'd just drop a 383 or 440 into it and call it a day. You'd be saving yourself a ton of money & more time to drive it, which is why we buy these cars.
 
Hello again, I will be sending in some more pictures of the 68 charger. I was getting the gear ratio and I believe it to be 3.55 ( I marked the driveshaft and tire and spun it 10 times) but I had noticed this stamp on the differential. I'm not sure what that means. During this process I asked myself, would I need to switch the axles and differentials if I want switch the auto trans to the TKX 5 speed?View attachment 1392598
The 2070741 carrier casting number tells you it’s an 8 3/4” rear axle with a 1 3/8” pinion made between 64-72. Used on low to medium horsepower cars. It is a strong rear axle, but the 742 casting is a bigger 1 3/4” pinion to handle more horses from the HP engines. Look for the tin tag where the chuck fastens to the axle housing that will tell you what the gear ratio is. It’s a little strip of metal stamped with 2.94, 3.23, 3.55 possibly.
 
The 2070741 carrier casting number tells you it’s an 8 3/4” rear axle with a 1 3/8” pinion made between 64-72. Used on low to medium horsepower cars. It is a strong rear axle, but the 742 casting is a bigger 1 3/4” pinion to handle more horses from the HP engines. Look for the tin tag where the chuck fastens to the axle housing that will tell you what the gear ratio is. It’s a little strip of metal stamped with 2.94, 3.23, 3.55 possibly.

I found my tag on the differential cover. I have the 72 8 1/4, is it different for 8 3/4 or other years?
 
I found my tag on the differential cover. I have the 72 8 1/4, is it different for 8 3/4 or other years?
Yes, there is a difference in appearance. The 8 1/4” has a removable cover on the rear of the housing and the gear ratio tag is hanging from the fastener of the cover. The 8 3/4” has the tag hanging from the carrier assembly fastener.
 
Hello again,

The brakes have come in along with the Proportioning valve, master cylinder, front disc and rear drum to disc. I also got the green bearing and flex lines and waiting for the brake push rods to come in. My question is after looking around, would I need a new brake booster as well?
 
Hey Demetrius welcome from south Florida!
You have a beautiful car there and I know you want to drive and enjoy as much as possible. Since you have had a few months of seat time you have an idea of how it drives.
You should really think of what you want the final product to be. That way you won't be making changes that are incompatible with your goal.
Try to plan things so you only change things once. I'm not familiar with QA1, but if their system comes with rack and pinion steering don't put the borgeson in now because that would be wasting money.
Plan your projects so there is little down time to take away from cruising and enjoying.
GOOD LUCK!
 
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