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I really hate this........

When I ran Hooker super comps on my 383 IIRC I had 1 or 2 45* boots and 1 or 2 90* boots with the rest straight.
 
My B bodies all have BBs, but my Duster has a SB. First set of headers on it was a used set of Hedmans I picked up for $40.. Same issues as yours and low ground clearance. I tore the car apart to redo everything a got some Dougs for it. The car is not all together yet but here is an engine pic:

duster 4-20-19 002.JPG
 
BTW, the Dougs require a mini starter. And my headers look a little different than the ones sold , as I cut the flanges off to lose a little weight. Worth over a lb. The Dougs were $380 shipped to my house with an Autozone 20% discount.
 
I had a set of Hedman headers I got FREE and they were NOT worth what I paid. They hit everything as if they were designed to do that. If I were to cut and reshape several of the bends, they would have worked....BUT why were they built that way? The A body chassis is the most difficult for fitment so often times, if it fits in an A chassis, it also fits a B or E. These were as bad as a set of $40 Doug Thorleys I bought at a swap meet. It makes the TTI and Doug's products seem like an actual bargain at their inflated prices.
 
I had a set of Hedman headers I got FREE and they were NOT worth what I paid. They hit everything as if they were designed to do that. If I were to cut and reshape several of the bends, they would have worked....BUT why were they built that way? The A body chassis is the most difficult for fitment so often times, if it fits in an A chassis, it also fits a B or E. These were as bad as a set of $40 Doug Thorleys I bought at a swap meet. It makes the TTI and Doug's products seem like an actual bargain at their inflated prices.
I was wondering what the fitment difference there was for headers on the A vs B etc. I didn’t think there was any compatibility but in theory they used the sane FE suspension etc. I still have no clue as to what headers I have but the steering clearance is really dicey take a look>

9723BE6F-9C74-40FC-950C-4A44AE482A84.jpeg 6FD6221E-202C-4FAA-AFE0-47F8858360C8.jpeg
 
BTW, the Dougs require a mini starter. And my headers look a little different than the ones sold , as I cut the flanges off to lose a little weight. Worth over a lb. The Dougs were $380 shipped to my house with an Autozone 20% discount.
Nice! Thats a 340 or a 360 block? What heads are you using?
 
I agree that they are proud of them, but they fit really nice and do work, I have a set on my 440 in my Challenger.
 
I agree that they are proud of them, but they fit really nice and do work, I have a set on my 440 in my Challenger.
Looks like they only build for big blocks? I assume B/RB is 440 and 383 Mopar notation?
 
I agree that they are proud of them, but they fit really nice and do work, I have a set on my 440 in my Challenger.
I always wanted to try a set of those, but for some reason Schuemacher didn't make the tri-y's to fit 4-speed cars. Never could figure that one out.
 
Nice! Thats a 340 or a 360 block? What heads are you using?
Actually it's the stock 75,000 mile original 318. I just painted it and stuck a 272 .455 Summit cam in it with an LD4B intake on top. I'm just going to get the car finished and drive it a while before deciding what engine to build for it. I have a 360 LA and a 360 Mag lying around. Will probably build one of those eventually.
Nice! Thats a 340 or a 360 block? What heads are you using?
 
I was wondering what the fitment difference there was for headers on the A vs B etc. I didn’t think there was any compatibility but in theory they used the sane FE suspension etc. I still have no clue as to what headers I have but the steering clearance is really dicey take a look>



View attachment 768591 View attachment 768593
IMG_5820.jpg

A little dicey. The guy that built my motor had these Hedmans hanging on the wall and gave them to me. He had them blasted and painted. Paint is about gone now, that was about seven years ago. Doesn't appear to have hit anything and wire boots haven't melted, but big starter got toasted.
 
90 degree down works for me (my 2 fat yellow wires in the pic), I had 135 degree boots on 5 & 7 to squeeze above the primary, but managed to burn them anyway (even with fiberglass boots)... grabbed a couple of used race wires I had with 90 degree boots and it clears the headers nicely running under them... not pretty, but it's just my daily driver, all go and no show.

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