And... what are your vacuum readings ?
Yes, sure sounds like a vacuum leak to me; at least that’s the first thing to check.
Buy some tools. Start with a vacuum gauge and a timing light.
Do this, do that. Check here, check there. Try this, try that. Replace this, replace that. And yet you don't even know where you started. See these ^^ posts. That's where you start.Basics first would be looking for vacuum leaks/leaking hoses etc:
- disconnect & plug brake booster
- plug ALL vac fittings to the carb or intake manifold
- check spark plugs & cracks in the insulators
- etc. Look for things that age or mileage could cause deterioration.
The factory never used the paper gaskets on standard port B/RB engines. They didn't exist. Nor were they needed.Did they use RTV and/or paper gaskets at the factory? What exactly did the factory use/do?
So i watched a couple videos and these people seem to use RTV together with the gasket:
Is this necessary/good?
If necessary also if you use the additional paper gaskets or is this basically the alternative to using the additional paper gaskets?
Do this, do that. Check here, check there. Try this, try that. Replace this, replace that. And yet you don't even know where you started. See these ^^ posts. That's where you start.
Did you diagnose the cruise control for a vacuum leak?Well i already found two vaccum leaks (the intake even leaks on both sides) so i don't think that further diagnosis is needed at this point.
I mean sure maybe there is even more wrong but i will start with those two leaks. Personally i don't really expect more to be wrong (timing, carb tuning etc.) because the engine runs great apart from this idle rpm issue.
Back to the booster - are you sure the booster is bad or is the check valve bad? The check valve is an easy and cheap fix. You can have your current booster rebuilt. I used Booster Dewey (actually Power Brake Booster) last year and it’s working great. Turn around was very reasonable too.
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Did you diagnose the cruise control for a vacuum leak?