I have the FSM. Was hard to pin point the section I needed to read.
At this point I think you can forget the ballast resistor.I think this electrical issue points to a problem with the key system. However, I am going to test the ballast resistor first since it is so easy to get at. Can anyone guide me through testing these two components?
Yeah ^^^^ Can't emphasize this enough.Check the starter relay and, more specifically, the ignition wire from the bulkhead connector to the relay (condition and contact). If both of those are in acceptable working condition it's the ignition switch.
Good catch. I will look for that in the FSM as well.
Why would someone bypass this?
4 Speed.Usually because the NSS is bad or the gear shift linkage is misadjusted causing the car to not CRANK with the key and they don't know what is causing it and/or don't know how to fix it. Once again, a simple circuit and easy to repair with a little troubleshooting effort.
Is this an automatic car? or 4-speed? The circuits are slightly different.
OK, back to the original subject. I have a ballast on order, should have it Wednesday. Amazon of all places had it.
Anyway, how do I do some testing to narrow this down? I'm thinking there has to be a way to test the ignition switch at the ballast to see if the switch is faulty.
The fact that the car will initially start and run fine, but upon restart wont run, is throwing me for a loop. If it was a bad switch I would experience the issues on the initial run as well as a restart run. From what I have read, when a ballast goes it goes all the way, something like 1/1000 where the ballast will basically weld the filament back together and run, but then break again. (this would explain why it will run fine the next day but would be incredibly unlikely)