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Ignition Selection

Hammer108

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Location
Bel Air, MD
I own a 65 Dodge Coronet 440 4dr w/318 Poly V8:
I am looking to upgrade the ignition. I have looked at several companies and eventually purchased a Pertronix unit with the Ignitor III (Part # 71318A) and their Coil to match this Ignitor unit
I attempted to install it and it just doesn't seem to fit correctly. Actually I think it might be the wrong part. Its doesn't easily fit inside the distributor and the directions are horrible.

Any suggestions or thoughts on what type of electronic ignition I should order? The attached photo is from when I removed the distributor cap. I am not 100% sure if its the original cap and rotor.

An update: Summit suggests this: PerTronix 91381A Ignitor II

Thanks again, Henry

IMG_1335.jpeg
 
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Could be because you have the old cast iron distributor instead of the newer aluminum style?
 
Upgrade.... as in less maintenance? Really nothing wrong with points and a good quality coil.
 
Could be because you have the old cast iron distributor instead of the newer aluminum style?

I am not sure. I bought the car about 2 months ago. I am slowly upgrading and fixing things and thought to upgrade the ignition. So I am not sure what distributor I currently have... The pic is all I have.
 
You will get no noticeable performance in my opinion. If it were me I would buy quality points and condenser. Lube the cam and set it up. Back in the old days that was good for 10,000 miles.
 
You will get no noticeable performance in my opinion. If it were me I would buy quality points and condenser. Lube the cam and set it up. Back in the old days that was good for 10,000 miles.

I've re-installed the old points and condenser. I know the points need to be adjusted or set. Now the car runs and idles nicely. But as soon as I slightly press the gas pedal, it stumbles/putts. The exhaust smell is atrocious and smells of unburnt gas/exhaust.
Suggestions on correcting the stumble/putts issues and smells? Now when I slam the gas pedal, the RPM's do go up, but I can hear some slight stumbling..... BTW: no heavy dark smoke from the exhaust.
 
I've re-installed the old points and condenser. I know the points need to be adjusted or set. Now the car runs and idles nicely. But as soon as I slightly press the gas pedal, it stumbles/putts. The exhaust smell is atrocious and smells of unburnt gas/exhaust.
Suggestions on correcting the stumble/putts issues and smells? Now when I slam the gas pedal, the RPM's do go up, but I can hear some slight stumbling..... BTW: no heavy dark smoke from the exhaust.
When was the last time the carb was rebuilt? Accelerator pump may need replacing along with a very good cleaning/adjusting.
 
What was the petronix number you have? Personally, I like the 1381's seem to be way more reliable have done dozens of them. Still nothing wrong with a good set of points unless your looking for a 1/10th of a second difference at the strip.
 
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Upgrade.... as in less maintenance? Really nothing wrong with points and a good quality coil.

IMO....I concur whole heartily, poihts will be just fine for an occaisional use vehicle. Looking at pix of the distributor, it appears to be using Blue Streak points and condenser. The distributor looks to be a little corroded and rusty. There should be a metal tag on the distributor body, usually inder a cap mounting screw or points mounting plate.....it would be helpful to know the info on the tag for future reference.
BOB RENTON
 
What was the petronix number you have? Personally, I like the 1381's seem to be way more reliable have done dozens of them. Still nothing wrong with a good set of points unless your looking for a 1/10th of a second difference at the strip.

71381A Ignitor
 
Petronix III they have issues on fitment. Good product just misleading.
 
Get a good set of high spring tension points and a good condenser and you're good for ten years on a classic car.
 
What was the petronix number you have? Personally, I like the 1381's seem to be way more reliable have done dozens of them. Still nothing wrong with a good set of points unless your looking for a 1/10th of a second difference at the strip.

Ray.....my experiences with a 1965 318 cubic inch 2 bbl polyhead engine is you don't want to exceed 5000 RPM too often or too long.....or....you'll be replacing the rod bearings......ask me how I know......
BOB RENTON
 
71381A should be the correct Pertronix III for single point distributor. The Pertronix II is still a good unit it just doesn't have rev limiter and it uses a hall effect sleeve over the lobes.

I have to disagree with everyone that says points are better. Electronic runs better and performs better and is easier to set up. I have the II in my 62 Belvedere and the III in my 69 GTX. You couldn't get me to go back to points.
 
71381A should be the correct Pertronix III for single point distributor. The Pertronix II is still a good unit it just doesn't have rev limiter and it uses a hall effect sleeve over the lobes.

I have to disagree with everyone that says points are better. Electronic runs better and performs better and is easier to set up. I have the II in my 62 Belvedere and the III in my 69 GTX. You couldn't get me to go back to points.

Another unsubstantiated endorsement. WHY do think electronic ignition is better than points for an occaisional use vehicle vehicle? Just curious as to decision making process......
BOB RENTON
 
Another unsubstantiated endorsement. WHY do think electronic ignition is better than points for an occaisional use vehicle vehicle? Just curious as to decision making process......
BOB RENTON
The pro points guys have yet to substantiate why they are better too. If you have a correct restoration then I can see the need. Otherwise, the points from my personal use break up easier on the top end, require more adjustments and replacements as they wear and they require lower power to run i.e. ballast resistor.

Run electronic and the need for ballast goes away and once the air gap is set, there are no wear parts. And you can run the higher volt coils.
 
Get a good set of high spring tension points and a good condenser and you're good for ten years on a classic car.

I hate to ask, but why high spring tension points? and another dumb one, what are high spring tension points? HA
 
OK spring tension is pretty easy it is the amount of tension on the points measured near the tips. Most stock Mopar points are 17-21 inlbs. High tension like say Accel are upwards of 32-34. What it does is makes sure the points close at high RPM, low tension will float and not make contact. Get it?
 
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