gkent
Well-Known Member
You said it first !! LOL !
I'm getting close to switching to a roller cam in the big block!
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themechanic
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What do the reviews say on Summit.com? A problem this serious would probably already be mentioned there. And if not, consider leaving a review to let others know what you went through.
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If/When I get an email notification of a product review, I'll certainly respond.
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The 440 Source offers a reproduction steel timing cover that is reinforced for roller camshaft engines.
It is a nice looking piece, with the timing seal it weighed over 2 1/2 lbs. It felt heavy compared to a stock one.
They spot weld an additional plate here.
Timing mark is included.
The stock covers I weighed were all gunky but still they weighed 1 1/2 lbs. This one being a full lb heavier must mean thicker metal, right ?
.78 is what…16 gauge? The stock cover is noticeably thinner.
.040 from what I see.
That comes to 18 gauge according to my Miller thickness gauge.
It is a nice looking piece, with the timing seal it weighed over 2 1/2 lbs. It felt heavy compared to a stock one.
They spot weld an additional plate here.
Timing mark is included.
The stock covers I weighed were all gunky but still they weighed 1 1/2 lbs. This one being a full lb heavier must mean thicker metal, right ?
.78 is what…16 gauge? The stock cover is noticeably thinner.
.040 from what I see.
That comes to 18 gauge according to my Miller thickness gauge.
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I decided to check a few things. The timing cover gasket I have here is from Fel Pro.
I measured another one that was in an old gasket set.
Both were near .030. That seems thick compared to what “Mopar Joe” measured in the video posted in this thread yesterday. I think he had .155 ?
Moving on…
Straight edge across the cover to check depth.
Minus the thickness of the straight edge…
The new cover has a net depth of .805, the seasoned stock cover was at .824. Add the .030 gasket and the new cover will sit .845 off of the face of the block. I’m sure that after thousands of miles and production tolerances, there is no way I can measure a different block and expect that number to be the same as mine. I’ll have to dig in to know. If the cam button touches the cover on mock up, I thought I heard one could use a thicker timing cover gasket?
I measured another one that was in an old gasket set.
Both were near .030. That seems thick compared to what “Mopar Joe” measured in the video posted in this thread yesterday. I think he had .155 ?
Moving on…
Straight edge across the cover to check depth.
Minus the thickness of the straight edge…
The new cover has a net depth of .805, the seasoned stock cover was at .824. Add the .030 gasket and the new cover will sit .845 off of the face of the block. I’m sure that after thousands of miles and production tolerances, there is no way I can measure a different block and expect that number to be the same as mine. I’ll have to dig in to know. If the cam button touches the cover on mock up, I thought I heard one could use a thicker timing cover gasket?
No shims with the button kit?
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No. The one I got didn't even have the sleeve!
I can cut discs out of soda cans if need be. What are they.... .005 thick?
I can cut discs out of soda cans if need be. What are they.... .005 thick?
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Videos like THIS can kick start a project...
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Summit came through with the cam button and sleeve.
The sleeve is small enough to fit on Mary’s pinky. It fits in the cam sprocket just fine.
With the sprocket bolted to the cam and the button in place, there is .140 clearance to the bolt heads.
Scuffed and primed…
It is forecast to be 68 tomorrow so it will be plenty warm to paint outside.
Yeah… one of the UPsides to California.
The sleeve is small enough to fit on Mary’s pinky. It fits in the cam sprocket just fine.
With the sprocket bolted to the cam and the button in place, there is .140 clearance to the bolt heads.
Scuffed and primed…
It is forecast to be 68 tomorrow so it will be plenty warm to paint outside.
Yeah… one of the UPsides to California.
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The firewall plate I mentioned before…
Cleaned, scuffed and primed.
Same as the timing cover, it will get painted tomorrow. The holes for the A/C lines will be drilled when I get the condenser off and the system is open. I’ll use grommets at the holes for a cleaner look.
Cleaned, scuffed and primed.
Same as the timing cover, it will get painted tomorrow. The holes for the A/C lines will be drilled when I get the condenser off and the system is open. I’ll use grommets at the holes for a cleaner look.
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I do like GoManGo.
Nobody will see it but me. Can you see the gold metallic in it ?
I do like the red as well.
For small stuff like this, you could spray through a gun like you’d use to paint car bodies but why? The volume of paint you’d use is so small, it is overkill. You can do it another way…
On the left is a Pre Val. These are a self contained spray kit that uses an aerosol canister and a mixing bottle.
The one drawback of these is that the spray pattern is almost a pinpoint and on wider parts, you can get uneven coverage that some refer to as tiger stripes.
The Harbor Freight gun though….
Small, simple and the spray pattern is more like an hourglass. The pressure is adjustable too. For paint…
13 year old Omni single stage “Flame Red”.
The timing cover was sprayed with paint I got last year. Both have a catalyst and reducer so they will be as durable as the outer body of the car. When I had the engine out for a rebuild in 2022, I decided to paint it with something more durable than spray can paint. The catalyzed enamel can be washed with Dawn detergent and not lose it’s shine.
Nobody will see it but me. Can you see the gold metallic in it ?
I do like the red as well.
For small stuff like this, you could spray through a gun like you’d use to paint car bodies but why? The volume of paint you’d use is so small, it is overkill. You can do it another way…
On the left is a Pre Val. These are a self contained spray kit that uses an aerosol canister and a mixing bottle.
The one drawback of these is that the spray pattern is almost a pinpoint and on wider parts, you can get uneven coverage that some refer to as tiger stripes.
The Harbor Freight gun though….
Small, simple and the spray pattern is more like an hourglass. The pressure is adjustable too. For paint…
13 year old Omni single stage “Flame Red”.
The timing cover was sprayed with paint I got last year. Both have a catalyst and reducer so they will be as durable as the outer body of the car. When I had the engine out for a rebuild in 2022, I decided to paint it with something more durable than spray can paint. The catalyzed enamel can be washed with Dawn detergent and not lose it’s shine.
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I'm trying to muster the motivation to dig in and do this. I have delayed and made excuses too damned long.
I can be so impulsive with many things but car projects I sometimes OVERthink things.
I've read that the roller lifters as shipped need to be cleaned with mineral spirits, then soaked in oil. Today I was out and got two Wix 51515 oil filters and wanted to buy oil but could not find Valvoline VR1 in a 10 w 30. Two stores had it in 20 w 50 but I thought I read that these lifters don't like oil that thick.
I'm still curious as to why a high zinc oil is recommended. The roller cam and lifters would seem to be the reason why the high zinc oil is not needed.
I'll use it because the difference in cost is not dramatically different but just like it is for me, I am curious about the why when something seems to defy sense. It isn't as easy to find as it used to be.
I can be so impulsive with many things but car projects I sometimes OVERthink things.
I've read that the roller lifters as shipped need to be cleaned with mineral spirits, then soaked in oil. Today I was out and got two Wix 51515 oil filters and wanted to buy oil but could not find Valvoline VR1 in a 10 w 30. Two stores had it in 20 w 50 but I thought I read that these lifters don't like oil that thick.
I'm still curious as to why a high zinc oil is recommended. The roller cam and lifters would seem to be the reason why the high zinc oil is not needed.
I'll use it because the difference in cost is not dramatically different but just like it is for me, I am curious about the why when something seems to defy sense. It isn't as easy to find as it used to be.
themechanic
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My engine builder recommended against full synthetic oil and to use a regular break in oil. So, I used Lucas 30 weight break-in oil.
themechanic
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This is from Blake at the Motor Oil Geek. I'm pretty sure he has a YouTube video on the subject.
Based on the insights from Lake Speed Jr., "The Motor Oil Geek", as referenced in the search context, the discussion around break-in oil for roller cam engines leans more toward practical application and science over widespread opinion.
While some sources suggest that roller cams don't require special break-in oil—since the cam and lifters are already roller-bearing and don't rely on the same hig… What oil for roller cam break-in the motor oil geek
Based on the insights from Lake Speed Jr., "The Motor Oil Geek", as referenced in the search context, the discussion around break-in oil for roller cam engines leans more toward practical application and science over widespread opinion.
While some sources suggest that roller cams don't require special break-in oil—since the cam and lifters are already roller-bearing and don't rely on the same hig… What oil for roller cam break-in the motor oil geek
Amazon is my go to for VR1. Cost is about half per quart compared to local stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10...d=1770437662&sprefix=valvoline,aps,242&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10...d=1770437662&sprefix=valvoline,aps,242&sr=8-2
gkent
Well-Known Member
I’m of the belief that roller cams do not require breaking in. I also don’t understand why anyone gives a **** about what number comes before the “W” for a car that only gets driven in fair weather !!!
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Commies! I'm surprised as getting the 20-50 the wagon eats is a non issue.
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Same here. O'Rielley's has it. I don't want to run oil that thick with these lifters.
Fair point. This car does get driven every month of the year though and it does get down into the 40s in the Winter.
Fair point. This car does get driven every month of the year though and it does get down into the 40s in the Winter.
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