• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Inner Frame Rail..... Coating - How to.......

stanhope55

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:01 AM
Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
132
Reaction score
3
Location
Atlantic Canada
Ok.... lets hear the stories of How to apply and what product to use.....

Inner Frame Rail Coating.... who wants to go first...

Ok i will, is 10/30 mixed with Kerosene a resonable option ?
 
I've been using the green stuff sold by Eastwood.
 
don't understand what the kero mix is supposed to do? If you don't want to see a detailed explanation, DO NOT read on, you may be wasting your time.
First my 68 RR was on a rotisserie so working underneath was easy. I made several air blow nozzles with copper tubes to reach back in the frames. I would tap on the frame (with a hammer) all over and then blow it out, and do this about 30 times. you will always seem to get stuff out of the frame sections. I would take the longer and shorter nozzles and bend them and insert in every hole and in each direction. be patient and keep doing this.
After it seemed to be cleaned, I got the green internal frame coating from Eastwood, and ordered some tygon tube from Mcmaster Carr (the same internal diameter as what comes with the Eastwood coating) and took the spray can push button nozzle from the frame coating can, removed the little tube that comes with it (had to slit it with a razor blade to get it off), and installed the longer tube on it. I also installed the small fan spray nozzle on the longer tube (about 4 feet long). I added one small drop of superglue to each end to keep the tygon tube from coming off. I then used the longer copper tubes I made for the air nozzles and taped the tygon tube to the copper (as a stiffner). I would insert the long spray nozzle and then spray as I was pulling it out. I did not skrimp on the frame coating and used about 7 cans, and did this 2 or more times in each section until the green paint was coming out. I also bought some "Pre-paint spray" from eastwood and would remove the push button from the frame coating can, insert it on the pre-paint and spray just a little to flush out the frame coating so it was clean and could be reused.
This was not a fast process, but I know this frame will outlast me many years (car will not be sold). so you need to make the decision of if you want to go to this level of detail.
The trunk floor was out so it was easy to clean and paint the rear frame rails. I also installed the frame connectors from US Cartool and sprayed them also.
As you may observe from the long write-up, I am an Engineer and I assume NOTHING, and always go overboard on anything I do.
Since my Roadrunner will almost never see any rain or bad weather conditions, I think the frame will last about 100 more years.
Let the clock and your pocketbook be your guide. I really think that there are only a handful of cars out there that have this much internal frame work.
good luck and thanks for your patience in reading this run-on explanation.
I really did this for others to see what the ultimate internal frame coating is about. I know a few people will like this but I also know some will think I have a real problem with detail. Donny (DR. Blast) will appreciate this as he and I are alike.
thanks
PT in Tennessee
 
I did a similar treatment to my 1965 Belvedere. I also found the Eastwood frame coating worked well to spray along sheetmetal lap joints-it will creep in and seal the space between the layers.
Mike
 
Your 10/30 mix will work on undercoating to loosen it before scrapping. Eastwood green inside frame rails is what I also used, careful about painting yourself taking the nozzle out of the frame.
 
tube size

sorry 493 mike, I have been in Canada working, so not a good connection to email.
I am back home, I will look for my invoice and or measure it and let you know tonight.
thanks
pt in tennessee
 
I also installed the frame connectors from US Cartool and sprayed them also.

Great write up PTURNER - Got a question for you . . . I too got the US Cartools frame connectors, and they have relief cuts in the bends ( to assist with the bending process ? ) . . . after installation of the frame connector, do these ( or should these ) be welded up to make them solid ? Or should they be left alone ?

I'd really appreciate the input of an engineer on this - Would like to know that I'm doing it correctly.
 
I have the same frame connectors and the paperwork that came with them said to weld them up after installation.
 
I have the same frame connectors and the paperwork that came with them said to weld them up after installation.

Thanks MarkB . . . I've been trying to find the directions and they have appeared to vanish into thin air ? ! ? ! ?
 
I think if you have access to the inside of the frame rails, a good epoxy primer, then some undercoating or something will ensure they last 200 yrs. I see a LOT of these frame rails, and none were coated from the factory, and, there's never much rust in them -- granted, I'm not in the 'Rust Belt' of the North, but, I'm from NH and seen my share of rotted cars...my GTX was one of those such cars. Post some pics, this is interesting to see what you all are doing. Thanks.
 
Welding up the US Cartools frame connectors . . .

Post some pics, this is interesting to see what you all are doing. Thanks.

Sure Donny - we're talking about finishing up the install of the US Cartools frame connectors.

Turns out the the frame connectors from US Cartools needed one additional piece of work to complete them, and I missed it.
The connectors come with some reliefs at the bending locations, probably simplifies the bending process.
After installation, the reliefs need to be welded up - to make them continuous and probably make them that much stronger too.


So, the reliefs look like this:

attachment.jpg


So I've welded all of the reliefs on both frame connectors ( 12 of them in all )

attachment.jpg


Donny - I'm documenting and putting pictures of all this on my thread at:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...7-Belvedere-Convertible-Plans-and-Restoration

If you'd like to follow along . . .

Hope that helps.
 
all, here is a little more info. the tubing was Mcmaster.com part number 5108k42, 1/8" id, 3/16" od with 1/32 wall. it fit the little nozzle ok, but I also added a drop of superglue, didn't want it blowing off.
on the slots in the frame connectors, I have yet to weld in my slots. it is a relief to allow smooth bending just as "con67" said. the upper portion (welding attachment edge) would be wavy as crap with out these. I am a little undecided about full welding, as there will be no opening for water to get out if it got inside. I have another set of the frame connectors from XV Motorsports I did not use as these really did not fit at all. I expected to do a little modification but they looked like they were for another car. I could never get them to respond to any calls or emails, so I bought the US Car tools ones.
I am doing metal work now and will turn the car on the side to complete all the finish welding.
pt in tennessee

- - - Updated - - -

oh guys, just saw the above pics and see the hole in them! mine do not have a hole in the bottom, soooooo, I will drill a hole or two and weld the reliefs.
just as Donny said, I made two holes in the floor pan and sprayed them thru the holes with the little painting nozzles I made, I did use epoxy primer.
learn more every day.
pt
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top