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Installation Tips for Longtube Headers in 383

Tyron68

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I am swapping out my factory exhaust manifolds for long tube headers on my 69 charger (Jegs part #555-30081). It has the original 383 in it. I am looking for some helpful tips or information that may aid in the installation. I haven’t done this before and imagine there’s a number of people on this forum that have. I was going to go down the YouTube rabbit hole but figured I’d start here. Thanks in advance.
 
Depending on how they are made you will probably need to remove or shorten most if not all the studs. Some have coolant behind them. Good luck
 
Not a job for the meek !!

First tip is to buy a quality set of headers. You will curse every moment if you cheap out !!

Second tip ... RARELY will you find a set of headers that are a perfect fit - all bolts line up and the pipes clear everything. Have a ballpeen hammer on hand.

Third - you need space to work - above and below. The engine mounts need to be unbolted and the motor will need to be jacked up. You'll need the front of the car on jackstands for safety. And DEFINATELY - disconnect the battery !

Passenger side will be a breeze - driver side not so much! Avoid the temptation to do the passenger side first - they may have interference when you go to do the driver side.

Good luck !!
 
you will probably need to remove or shorten most if not all the studs. Some have coolant behind them.
Good point. Good idea to drain the coolany !! The new headers will likely come with bolts - have some gasket sealant (not silicone !!) on hand to coat them when you install them.
 
On mine I had to remove the starter, motor mount on drivers side, jack up the engine and then install the header and starter simultaneously
It's a PIA compared to manifolds.
 
On mine I had to remove the starter, motor mount on drivers side, jack up the engine and then install the header and starter simultaneously
It's a PIA compared to manifolds.
This is making me seriously question my decision…….
 
It's a matter of priorities. If you want your engine to look more 'modified/racey', like the difference in sound when the hood is open and idling, and want a few extra horsepower, go for a good set of headers like Dougs or TTIs.
On the other hand, if you never open the hood and would rather listen to music from your radio or system over the header "pings", or you prefer a stock appearing engine, stick with manifolds. Some people are gearheads and want their engines to match the performance look of their cars and others don't care.
Which is right for you?
As far as installation, I would recommend you go to Summit's site (Summitracing.com), look up a good set of headers and read the installation instructions. Are you capable of following the directions and doing the work? Some are, some aren't. Do you own a floor jack, jackstands, a set of sockets, combination wrench set, etc.? Also go to You Tube and watch a few guys/girls install headers to really immerse yourself in doing it. Unfortunately, a lot of folks who film themselves doing an install aren't experienced and make mistakes, but that's okay. Better to see them do it and learn than to do the mistakes yourself.
If I'm at a show and I see a modified muscle car with the hood open I expect it to have headers, unless it's a stock restoration. If you decide to do it, there's a ton of help on this site with people who will gladly share it.
Good luck...
 
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It's a matter of priorities. If you want your engine to look more 'modified/racey', like the difference in sound when the hood is open and idling, and want a few extra horsepower, go for a good set of headers like Dougs or TTIs.
On the other hand, if you never open the hood and would rather listen to music from your radio or system over the header "pings", or you prefer a stock appearing engine, stick with manifolds. Some people are gearheads and want their engines to match the performance look of their cars and others don't care.
Which is right for you?
As far as installation, I would recommend you go to Summit's site (Summitracing.com), look up a good set of headers and read the installation instructions. Are you capable of following the directions and doing the work? Some are, some aren't. Do you own a floor jack, jackstands, a set of sockets, combination wrench set, etc.? Also go to You Tube and watch a few guys/girls install headers to really immerse yourself in doing it. Unfortunately, a lot of folks who film themselves doing an install aren't experienced and make mistakes, but that's okay. Better to see them do it and learn than to do the mistakes yourself.
If I'm at a show and I see a modified muscle car with the hood open I expect it to have headers, unless it's a stock restoration. If you decide to do it, there's a ton of help on this site with people who will gladly share it.
Good luck...
If I am being totaly honest, the only reason I bought the headers and kit that I did is because I could not find a reasonable priced exhaust kit that was a direct bolt on to my manifolds, so I was trying to get out of paying a muffler shop to have to the connection portion to my manifolds. I have no preference between manifolds or headers. I have all the tools and shop at my house to do the work, so that’s not the issue. If this is just an asinine reason than I can always send back what I got.
 
Headers are not difficult to install. I'd done many going back over half century ago. How are you mating them to your exhaust ?
 
Reasonable sized tube headers on a 383/400 in a b body is usually pretty easy. Back in the day we had a set that could be bolted on outside the car and the engine trans and headers all dressed went in with the leveler on the picker and fit between the torsion bars.
With a 383 I've usually been able to install above or below, most often setting them in the bay while you lower the engine in. But your engine is in. Even with a 440 or a C body when the narrower torsion bars I've never had to loosen the mounts and raise the engine. Lots of different header designs out there though. But on a 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 tube set they should go in easy. Now, they probably will need hammered around a power steering box and potentially for spark plug access/space to not burn wires.
 
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