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Installing Classic Auto Air in a '70 Charger

Thanks.
I didn't expect this to be a perfect job. Trying to match the paint is next to impossible. The goal is to just hide the old holes and make it look less obvious than before. With the ECM, Ballast resistor, Voltage regulator and wiring in place, it will look better than it did.
 
Here is another detail that may apply to others that buy aftermarket radiators for their classics.
Overflow jugs.
My radiator is an ECP from Speed Cooling, it is a 26” designed to fit the car and has been excellent. I have never overheated this car with this radiator. The only shortcoming it has is how the overflow nipple points to the drivers side.

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I have a non stock jug attached to the right fender apron.

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It works well but this requires me to plumb it like this:

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Freiberger thinks it is fine. I don’t.
I had planned on having a radiator shop move the nipple to the other side so the hose has a straight shot but the only place nearby that actually works on radiators didn’t think he could (or just didn’t want to) so I figured I’d pull the nipple, block that hole with a plug and drill and tap the other side.
The problem there is twofold: the neck is thin, leaving little material to thread into. To add, I don’t know where to find a 1/8” tap for a compression fitting if it even exists.
 
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Here is another detail that may apply to others that buy aftermarket radiators for their classics.
Overflow jugs.
My radiator is an ECP from Speed Cooling, it is a 26” designed to fit the car and has been excellent. I have never overheated this car with this radiator. The only shortcoming it has is how the overflow nipple points to the drivers side.

View attachment 2003649

View attachment 2003650

I have a non stock jug attached to the right fender apron.

View attachment 2003651

It works well but this requires me to plumb it like this:

View attachment 2003653

Freiberger thinks it is fine. I don’t.
I had planned on having a radiator shop move the nipple to the other side so the hose has a straight shot but the only place nearby that actually works on radiators didn’t think he could (or just didn’t want to) so I figured I’d pull the nipple, block that hole with a plug and drill and tap the other side.
The problem there is twofold: the neck is thin, leaving little material to thread into. To add, I don’t know where to find a 1/8” tap for a compression fitting if it even exists.
You can find an 1/8" NPT tap virtually anywhere, which is what you need for that nipple. You might be better off just drilling a hole in that neck and finding someone to TIG a nipple into place.
 
How about moving the overflow jug?
That may work, but where exactly? The battery eats up all the space next to the radiator but what about below the battery tray ?

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It could work but it would crowd things a bit. Not ideal. What about on the front side of the core support?

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There are a few places but sure don’t want anything visible through the grille.

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I like this position, right next to the headlight pedestal.

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I’d want it parallel with the length of the car.

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What if I made a mount to do that….

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Using a cardboard template, I figured I could make a bracket that also had a section that could be painted to hide the jug…

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More to come.
 
I made a triangle shaped bracket to mount the jug…

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It just 18 gauge sheet metal but triangles are sturdy. I used two 5/16 bolts to mount it, the heads were tack welded to the bracket.

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It may work.

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You can see it through the grille…

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I may just spray undercoating on the jug to hide it in plain site.
 
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