Is a R/T worth alot without all the numbers matching componets?

[moparguy951]

Figured I start a new thread..

Looking at of all places ebay...Seeing these 69-70 chargers/coronets selling for stupid cash for basically a shell. Are they still worth that money without the matching drivetrain? I can see having a real r/t car yes but not worth 10k with out the drivetrain correct?

 

[lewtot184]

what are the ebay selling prices? i have a 69 r/t and don't follow the prices much. some of this stuff can be very subjective.

 

[gtx1of1]

none of the junk on egag is selling.
prices are more than double what they should be.

 

[hawkeye]

Click on 'sold' listings on Ebay that will show you what actually sold and for how much. Follow it for a couple of months and it will give you a pretty good idea of the value.

 

[ma mopar nutz]

Asking price and actual selling price always different !!

 

[djais1801]

before I bought my 'cuda, I was almost into a 69 GTO Judge w/out original engine. In the end we were too far apart, he was stuck on the fact it was a "Judge", and I was stuck on what makes it a "Judge" was the RAIII engine...no special vin, just the decals and the engine.

 

[terzmo]

" I can see having a real r/t car yes but not worth 10k with out the drivetrain correct?"

10K???? what condition for 10K...junk or just needing a drivetrain ? Many of the ones left are not numbers matching even if the owner "thinks" it is. My 67 R/T is the red headed stepchild of all the R/T's ...I pulled the non numbers 440....installed a 472 hemi with a correct 354 dana and caltracs. and tweaked 727. The body is great....is it worth more than a stock numbers matching L code 67 R/T ? I would like to think it is

 

[moparguy951]

saw acouple sold for anywhere from 7500-10k... None had the matching drivetrain.. So I was asking would someone still buy a real r/t for the sole rights to just the vin stating its an r/t... And not having a numbers matching r/t but still in theory an r/t

 

[terzmo]

so you meana "real R/T" vs clone. I had two clones and they were perfect except for vin number. That "bugged" me so now I have a real R/T with non matching numbers drivetrain. Content with that.

My 2 cents,I would not buy a shell that is not the real deal or "pedigree" R/T's start with WS...anything else is a clone.

 

[Northern Runner]

Well just to chime in, here's a listing in my area of exactly what you guys are talking about, guy has an SE Charger, trunk is toast, and he still wants $13,500, just because it's been on fleabay twice and has the auction has gone for around that much. I think his asking price is outrageous myself...
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4918125993.html

 

[moparguy951]

I was just wondering if its worth to have a non matching r/t car...versus a numbers matching r/t... do people still want a real r/t without the matching drivetrain

 

[Meep-Meep]

I suppose it depends on how good the shell is. All original sheet metal and not too damaged by rust might be worth a good chunk. I sum it up like this: Any old car that retains it's original sheet metal, is an honest numbers matching and correctly restored car with proper date coded parts where applicable, etc.. is one notch down from a (good) survivor and thus a benchmark for pricing. Cars like what I just described are not common. So to figure pricing you take the best example that has not been largely recreated using AMD sheet metal and back off from there based on what's missing. Original engines and trannys, once gone are gone, and that car will never be at the top of the heap price wise. Find all the rest of the R/T trim, build the car and it is what it is - a real R/T with date correct engine and tranny (if that's the case) or just transplanted from a Winnebago. What annoys me is all these auction sales of cars that were rebuilt from a pile of rust and an AMD catalog selling for top dollar. It's like me claiming to be Greek when I'm really only 1/16th Greek. To borrow a famous sailor's quote "I yam what I yam."

 

[NJRR]

I think it all depends on what the principal motivation is; striving for the highest price/collector's value or to have an R/T to drive and enjoy. This was discussed in another thread the other day. Number's matching means exactly that. If the drivetrain is not original to the car, that aspect is gone forever and it can never be "worth" as much as a true numbers car, except maybe to the owner.

 

[monaco66coupe]

it is difficult to say exactly what reduction in value there is from all correct numbers VS just the body being titled as a muscle car. The production numbers Influence the value, and desirability. A 69 318 dart hardtop has much less value than a 340, 0r 383. even if the engine is gone, the latter will bring more than the former. A 69' cuda 383 four speed one of 148 for example, or a build date of 1 August, will sell all day for pretty much the same price even if the original engine is gone. As long as it is a original A 383 correct year code, the car would sell for big money. Now a 68-70 Charger is so much in demand that any surviving body or car, regardless of engine will bring a lot of money today. Rich chevy guys own Mopar collectibles, and they want the Charger most above all. Personally, owning a GM should preclude them from owning a Charger.HA HA

 

[moparguy951]

i agree chargers in any state of rust or repair currently are going for crazy money

 

[NJRR]

I was referring to the differential between a numbers car with the matching drivetrain and the same car with a non-matching drivetrain. There is no question that the all matching car would be worth more than a non-matching car in the same condition. Will a non-matching car be worth more than a clone (ie a satellite cloned to a roadrunner)? Probably, but I think the differential might be less than the matching/non-matching drivetrain differential. At least to me.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

if everything is # matching you would think it is worth more to the buyer looking for the real deal.but in reality how hard is it to clone one n even transfer all the # from a totally rust out r/t to a 318 or six car buy changing all the # n putting r/t upgrades on it,fender tags rad supports n drip rails etc this has happened lots off times.unless you find one that has never been touched n have taken lots off pics to show this off before n after whats a clone n whats real .

 

[lewtot184]

if everything is # matching you would think it is worth more to the buyer looking for the real deal.but in reality how hard is it to clone one n even transfer all the # from a totally rust out r/t to a 318 or six car buy changing all the # n putting r/t upgrades on it,fender tags rad supports n drip rails etc this has happened lots off times.unless you find one that has never been touched n have taken lots off pics to show this off before n after whats a clone n whats real .

fender tag and build sheet that correspond to body numbers helps to eliminate some fraud.

 

[Dennis H]

I used to hear "Nice R/T. Now I hear "is that a real R/T? I really don't care about numbers or value. Just the thrill of the drive.

 

[Budnicks]

Resale value all is dependent on condition
#'s matching engine trans & rear etc.,
all the proper stampings vin & fender tag
when done experts say, they can "allegedly" fetch 20%-25% more resale

with out any engine or trans, a real R/T roller shell, your guess is as good as mine,
condition condition condition means everything,
how much of the rest of the OE R/T is still there ??

resale value when restored/finished quality of the build & attention to detail on the restoration,
IMHO is probably more important than #'s matching, when it comes to resale value,
as long as it's disclosed, some of the more purist at heart, will argue that point maybe...

#'s matching IMHO isn't as important,
if it's not rare, or low production #'s,
than IMO it really makes a big difference...

I've seen many resto-mods & pro-touring cars, go for more $$$,
than 100% OE original 1000pt concourse cars too, depends on the buyers & market...
like everyone says;
"it takes all types,
there's an *** for every seat,
it worth what somebody is willing to pay"...

I'd personally {not knowing the cars real condition} start with about
{or take off as much as deemed necessary, for missing parts}
1/2 of the asking price & go from there,
if you like the car & see value in it,
if you can get it for "what your willing to pay", then buy it...

I bought a complete running & driving,
100% #'s matching 383ci 727tf drive train, slightly rough exterior,
perfect black Décor interior, 69k original miles, real LL1 Surf Turquoise,
1968 RR HT RM23 for $6000 in the peak of the market 2005
I have at-least $25k invested in it now & 100's of hrs,
but I'm not going to sell anytime soon either, I build it all myself & to my taste...

there were many other cars I looked at, that were basket cases
&/or really rough, for the same price or even more...

My thoughts were;
"It's better to buy something as complete as possible"...

My point is there are good deals "still out there" now too,
you may have to travel to find or get one...

good luck