Is It Worth It To Recore A Vintage Radiator

[Auggie56]

Or even possible now days ?

https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/6000317792.html

 

[Glenwood]

I had estimates to re-core my 22" of about $350-400 CAD. I ended up buying an aluminum rad for just over $300US + shipping. The deciding factor was that the bottom tank is too narrow to fit much wider cores that I was after.

 

[glassman]

All depends on how vintage. My radiator shop was going to do my 38 Dodge radiator and found out that it was plugged up and did not need recored. It just needed the rod method of cleaning. Price was free. He said it was a pleasure to work on a good piece rather than a newer piece of crap.

 

[1968rick]

Depends on the application...going for a full stock restoration then yes.....going to be a driver or a race car go with an aluminum rad. My 41 Ply was quoted at 700cad. Aluminum was 250...no brainer.

 

[furyus]

I would like to have the original radiator in my 340 Swinger, but it's about $500 to recore it. Plus, the greedy bastards that are selling rebuildable radiators want $275 to 300 for a 50 year old piece of junk. Mine will just stay aluminum.

 

[Rick@Laysons]

If you do decide to re-core it, check out places that work on farm and/or industrial machinery. You might very well get a better price for the work done.

 

[idrivemopar]

I think as 1968rick says, it depends on what you are going for. I like many of you were wowed by the expense of having a radiator recored/restored, so I bought a cheap aftermarket radiator, wasn't happy, it looked funny in my car, it was too skinny and a bit too tall. So, I had GlenRay take my original and they basically built me a new factory radiator because both my tanks were shot plus the core. It was expensive yes, but was it worth it to me, yes!!! Proper fit, has the correct Chrysler stampings and numbers and it goes great with my car because it pretty much was factory restoration, and the radiator is great, they did excellent work.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I agree with all the posts above. Custom cores are still built, but the companies that do build copper/brass cores from scratch usually focus on semi-trucks & heavy equipment, so try those guys instead of an "auto" guy. Older radiator technicians still remember how to re-core copper/brass that doesn't have the "stamp-in-place" plastic tanks. If you're looking for something "numbers matching" then go for it. If you want cheap/easy go aluminum.

 

[brian6pac]

If it's just plugged up you can clean it out with white vinegar, I just laid mine in the driveway so the hoses are facing up put on a rad cap and put in a gal of white vinegar and let it sit 3 - 4 hrs, drained it and was amazed from what came out. Did it one more time and flushed it good with water, flows like new. If the core is junk then it's your call. I got a new rad and changed the top tank. One guy told me he could not do it the size was just off to much.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

You'll have as much at more in that as a new "good" aluminum piece. Unless it's a restoration I wouldn't bother.

 

[texas69bee]

http://www.restorationradiators.com/

 

[super-bee_ski]

I had my 70 Superbee Hemi radiator recored.
Also had a 77 Gremlin X radiator recored and a Pontiac GTO done

 

[GetX'd]

I had my factory radiator restored and triple cored for my 440 GTX. It cost me $500 which seems to be a good price from what I see on these posts. Works like a champ. Toms Radiator in Anoka, MN did the work.

 

[69a100]

I had mine redone with a 3 core about 10 years ago when it developed a problem, was fine until last month when the bearing in my H2O pump took a dump and my fan played tag with the rad and now leaks.
I'm on the fence right now as if it's repairable or not, or go new Aluminum?

 

[Speedbird]

Let me try and remember.
I think the core that came in that radiator won't be available from what my shop said.
But the tanks can be reused for "correct" appearance if it's from a 67 car.
Tank are reproduced with Chrysler approval but they are VERY pricey from what I saw.
My manual car came with an auto radiator in it.
Hey, it's probably what they had on hand and what difference would it have made to the original owner?
I've got a good radiator shop and had the orginal radiator, so that's what I did.
But if my car didn't have the correct radiator in it I would go with what Classic has on the shelf for the best price.
I talked to our mechanical engineer at work and he poo pooed aluminum radiators.
Well, he did anyway. Opinions I guess.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/radiator.113403/#post-910458853

And watch the inlet and outlet size and location.
I don't know if that's different for your application.

 

[5wndwcpe]

Contact Bob at GlenRay and ask him what the core is worth. It might be worth picking up based on that alone.

 

[Auggie56]

As usual I gained a wealth of information from you guys. I guess it would be asking a lot to trust the integrity of a fifty year old one, even with a new core. Anyone deal with this guy off ebay ? He doesn't say who built the radiator or stated no guarantee.

 

[5.7 hemi]

The copper core is what's expensive. The actual work is reasonable. The price of copper is outrageous!

 

[Speedbird]

As usual I gained a wealth of information from you guys. I guess it would be asking a lot to trust the integrity of a fifty year old one, even with a new core. Anyone deal with this guy off ebay ? He doesn't say who built the radiator or stated no guarantee.

My thinking is that the tanks don't go bad.
It's a brass thing.
The leaks are always at seams and in the tubes.
Watch a youtube video on how brass radiators are made.

 

[BeeKool]

If you do decide to re-core it, check out places that work on farm and/or industrial machinery. You might very well get a better price for the work done.

Very true. A lot of the restoration places are price gougers.
I drive 45 miles to my radiator shop because he's half the price.