Is this cam too small for a 383/489 stroker?

[TorRed]

I already have this cam for a 383/432 build. I'm now considering a 383/489 build for 1) a stock 'looking' build with 906 heads, exhaust manifolds and DP4B intake or 2) CNC'd Stealth heads, headers, and probably a six pack setup. I'd like some decent lope but nothing too radical. Will this cam work for one or both options?


20230712 Lunati Voodoo Retro Fit 3 Bolt Hydraulic Roller Camshaft BB Chrysler
Lunati's Voodoo Series deliver more area under the curve than any other series. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum, and better efficiency. These factors, combined with max hp and torque, make Voodoo cams the best choice for a wide range of high-performance applications

This 1958+ Big Block Chrysler V8 361-440 is designed as a high performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb, and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance

Vehicle Make	BB Chrysler, Chrysler
Camshaft Type	Hydraulic Roller
RPM Range	2200 to 6200
Intake Lift	0.535
Exhaust Lift	0.550
Intake Duration at 50	231
Exhaust Duration at 50	239
Advertised Intake Duration	282
Advertised Exhaust Duration	290
Camshaft Series	Voodoo
Valve Setting	Hydraulic
Lobe Separation Angle	110

 

[qkcuda]

I used a 236/242 comp hydraulic roller in my 400/500 stroker and it was a great cam for the street. It made 550 HP and 610 TQ with pocket ported 452 heads. My buddy used the one smaller 230/236 version and made about the same horsepower and even more torque. You are right in the middle of those two, so I would definitely use it.

 

[33 IMP]

It will be a torque monster, with limited topend, (and I would bet....) disappointing results with 906s and manifolds.
Good heads and headers, it will be a torque MONSTER, and you'll love it.
You have the cam....run it.
Edit: I have been looking at voodoo solids for a while. I like almost all of the voodoo grinds.
2nd edit: build the 489. Same bore and stroke as a favorite bbc build, with a longer rod.

 

[not so famous bob]

I already have this cam for a 383/432 build. I'm now considering a 383/489 build for 1) a stock 'looking' build with 906 heads, exhaust manifolds and DP4B intake or 2) CNC'd Stealth heads, headers, and probably a six pack setup. I'd like some decent lope but nothing too radical. Will this cam work for one or both options?


20230712 Lunati Voodoo Retro Fit 3 Bolt Hydraulic Roller Camshaft BB Chrysler
Lunati's Voodoo Series deliver more area under the curve than any other series. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum, and better efficiency. These factors, combined with max hp and torque, make Voodoo cams the best choice for a wide range of high-performance applications

This 1958+ Big Block Chrysler V8 361-440 is designed as a high performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb, and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance

Vehicle Make	BB Chrysler, Chrysler
Camshaft Type	Hydraulic Roller
RPM Range	2200 to 6200
Intake Lift	0.535
Exhaust Lift	0.550
Intake Duration at 50	231
Exhaust Duration at 50	239
Advertised Intake Duration	282
Advertised Exhaust Duration	290
Camshaft Series	Voodoo
Valve Setting	Hydraulic
Lobe Separation Angle	110

a little too small...jmo

 

[TorRed]

I used a 236/242 comp hydraulic roller in my 400/500 stroker and it was a great cam for the street. It made 550 HP and 610 TQ with pocket ported 452 heads. My buddy used the one smaller 230/236 version and made about the same horsepower and even more torque. You are right in the middle of those two, so I would definitely use it.

Thanks for the feedback, mind me asking what stall your converter is and rear gear ratio? Thx

 

[TorRed]

It will be a torque monster, with limited topend, (and I would bet....) disappointing results with 906s and manifolds.
Good heads and headers, it will be a torque MONSTER, and you'll love it.
You have the cam....run it.
Edit: I have been looking at voodoo solids for a while. I like almost all of the voodoo grinds.
2nd edit: build the 489. Same bore and stroke as a favorite bbc build, with a longer rod.

Part of me wants to keep it more "stock" since the drivetrain is all original and the motor still has the original heads and I've got the original intake and period DP4B to use. Once I start going away from that I kind of think just go for it. Thx

 

[TorRed]

a little too small...jmo

I was originally planning a 383/451 build but no one offers a 3.9" stroker anymore. So it's either 432 or 489 for those of us with 383's. Thx

 

[33 IMP]

If you're gonna use iron heads and manifolds, build the 432.
If your gonna build the 489, and you wanna be happy with the result, I'd use good heads and headers.
Jmo.

 

[33 IMP]

For a 3.9 crank, you could try molner (would be my choice) or Ohio crank.

 

[qkcuda]

Thanks for the feedback, mind me asking what stall your converter is and rear gear ratio? Thx

My converter was somewhere between 3000-3500 stall, and I used a 3.55 gear. The car ran 11.50's at 120 mph in full street trim with 1 3/4 headers and full 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Frankly I'm not sure the converter or gear mattered that much with the torque that engine produced. It was over 500 lb/ft from as low as we pulled it on the dyno (around 3000 rpm). I am pretty sure the fellow with the other engine with the smaller cam switched to 2.76 gears and could still roast the tires at will.

 

[TorRed]

For a 3.9 crank, you could try molner (would be my choice) or Ohio crank.

Thanks, I've looked at Molner but would have to go with custom pistons and piece the 'Stroker Kit' together myself. Not impossible, just haven't done it before. Thx

 

[TorRed]

On 500ish Strokers, does anyone hear use any block stiffeners, girdles, cross bolted caps, etc.? Thx

 

[radical rob]

I have a Hughes stud girdle on mine

 

[451Mopar]

On 500ish Strokers, does anyone hear use any block stiffeners, girdles, cross bolted caps, etc.? Thx

Depends on power level and use.
The problem is at what point do you just go to an aftermarket block? Maybe around 800 HP?
A stock block and caps with studs should be good for 550 to maybe 600 HP. The 440 source 1/4" girdle with stock caps is pretty affordable as it comes with all the hardware too, and does not need extra machine work. I'm not sure how much it helps, but will space the windage tray lower to clear the stroker crank.
Aftermarket caps require align boring the main caps, and maybe even more machine work which can be expensive unless you own a machine shop.
I did the BCR aluminum caps with their 1/2" girdle. I think the cost of the cap girdle kit and machine work was around $2,000.

 

[TorRed]

Since I'm valuing the original engine & drivetrain as much as I am, I think I need to stick with a moderate 432 build. Last thing I'd want to do is punch a hole in the side of the block. 450-500 HP, 500ish Torque should be fine. Thanks everyone for helping me decide. Now I just need to find a decent shop around here that has an opening to work on the Bird.

Thanks, Jim

 

[RemCharger]

Since I'm valuing the original engine & drivetrain as much as I am.......

.... then save it and grab a 400 block..
New crank, rods, pistons, heads, valvetrain...
Why would you risk the #s complete motor?
For the same price you end up with a bigger better motor AND the factory complete motor. 2 motors for the price of 1 is a no- brainer to me
I've had to help a customer load up a smashed #s block after I built him a new one. No one was smiling.

 

[33 IMP]

Numbers block? Save it, and build something else. Freshen the numbers block engine at your leisure. Remchargers suggestion is a good one!
My numbers A12 engine is sitting in the corner, on a stand. Built a 511 to put in the runner.

 

[TorRed]

For me it's a matter of practicality. I have a 2 1/2 car garage at my 'retirement' home that's half the size of the 5 bedroom house we had 6 years ago with full basement. Right now it's the Roadrunner and a golf cart inside and it's going to be hard enough getting it cleaned out enough to actually park two cars in the garage which I want to do. Finding room for a 900# engine on an engine stand is just not in the cards. Besides, the car is going to my son as soon as I can no longer drive it or I'm gone and I'm going to have to get a move on it just to finish it before either of those happens. He's already said he just wants to cruise in it, his idea of a fast car looks a lot like a V-10 Audi R8. I don't know, maybe I ought to protect the originality and refresh the 383 with at most a hotter cam than the stock Magnum one.

 

[BSB67]

I think your cam choice for either displacement engine (432 or 489) is just fine, with headers.

If it’s a 489 with manifolds, I’d prefer that cam ground on a wider LSA. If on a 432, I’d probably a step down in size on a wider LSA.

 

[Geoff 2]

If you want 'nothing too radical', then that would be a good cam. I would install it with a 106 ICL with a 432 engine & 110 ICL with the 489.