Just replaced my electronic ignition w/ points, yup.

[moparedtn]

I'm like a lot of you, being brought up learning to do points. Still have a points dizzy in a box somewhere
for the GTX even.
That said, when I converted my first Mopar (a '68 Bee) to the Mopar electronics using the Mopar Electronic
Ignition Kit being sold by Direct Connection back in the early 80's, that was it for me.
I mean come on, we're talking like what, 4 wires?
Everything was in the kit except for the recommended electronic voltage regulator (mandatory if you ask me)
and Ma even made (and still makes) one that uses the stock wiring harness for that, too.
Couldn't be easier and no more points to replace, not to mention easier tune-ups.
Put a hotter coil on the whole she-bang and get longer life out of caps, rotors, plugs....

The key, at least for me, was keeping it all Mopar. I still do - the GTX has been converted as well, although
I admit to using a "vintage" orange control unit from Mopar, not trusting the newer ones (I've read the
stories). Still works easy peasy.
It just makes more sense, least to me - and it's easily reversible should the next steward of the car after
me choose to do so.

 

[Nate S]

HOW is done??? If the spark occurs randomly as you suggest, and if the rotor is between wire terminals when this occurs, no spark will be introduced to the plugs to inniate premature ignition.
The points and condenser (NOS Mopar) in my origional Prestolite dual point distributor do not exhibit this phenomenon....from idle thru 6000 RPM. Which "best points" are you referring to? Perhaps the Chinese variety? The Chinese control modules have been known to falsely trigger which may exhibit the "bouncing" of the timing light indications. "Pinging" or detonation is usually csused by too much spark advance for the compression ratio and/or low octane fuel (ethanol blended) for the same conditions.
BOB RENTON

I don’t hate points or anything. Just have worked on many and the point of opening simply isn’t as consistent as a reluctor pulse. Brand new good parts do better but they age and that changes. Most cars I’ve never converted but there’s certainly an advantage to good EI. The whole world switching over is a hint. Cars ran well before 1973 too.

As for pinging, you weren’t thinking about it. If the line jitters under the timing light that means some sparks are more advanced than others. If you’re on the edge of pinging these push some firings over the line.

 

[RJRENTON]

I guess I'm struggling with phonetics......the term "dizzy" has a totally different meaning, not related to automobile ignition systems.
"As for pinging, you weren’t thinking about it. If the line jitters under the timing light that means some sparks are more advanced than others. If you’re on the edge of pinging these push some firings over the line."
.... not really...it just means that the spark is erratic....which could be occuring any where in the ignition cycle, not necessarily ahead of combustion. Pinging can be attributable to preignition or detonation not totally caused by erratic spark occurrences but several other factors.
BOB RENTON

 

[toolmanmike]

You guys running points, contact @HALIFAXHOPS. He sells new old stock Mopar and aftermarket tune up parts. Nothing like the quality of the old stuff. I stocked up for my dual point.

 

[moparedtn]

There's a reason the entire new car industry went electronic (and then computerized), gentlemen.
Nothing wrong with keeping them original - or just personally being more comfortable with points (there's still folks out there that believe Henry Ford got it perfect, too).
But....
They certainly aren't "better" for the task at hand by any measure.

 

[RJRENTON]

You guys running points, contact @HALIFAXHOPS. He sells new old stock Mopar and aftermarket tune up parts. Nothing like the quality of the old stuff. I stocked up for my dual point.

View attachment 962788 View attachment 962789

Filko along with Standard Motor Products "Blue Streak", were always my "go to" brand. I found the Blue Streak points had one of the largest, by area, point structures which promoted low contact resistance and long life, and in addition, had an additional copper conductor, in parallel with the spring.
But....nothing beats today's modern computer controlled ignition (and fuel delivery) systems for accuracy and reliability and performance. I just want to maintain correct appearance and originality with the GTX. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[myk r sanchez]

Always a great debate Points or Electronic igntion Regarding reliability.​

I'm also still running Points.​

In most cases I will reccomend mechanical over electronic for reliability on the street. I'm talking about fans, water pumps, ignition and fuel pumps. Electronics are sensitive little things and will die if less than optimum conditions are maintained in its environment. That being said, I run a Firecore distributor, old style MSD6 analog and an electric fuel pump. I plan to go with an electric fan and water pump, not for reliability or better performance, but because I think running newer tech in old cars is cool...

 

[oldbee]

You guys running points, contact @HALIFAXHOPS. He sells new old stock Mopar and aftermarket tune up parts. Nothing like the quality of the old stuff. I stocked up for my dual point.

View attachment 962788 View attachment 962789

Filko, now there's a name I haven't heard in 50+(yrs)!! Ok, I'm old.

 

[MoparLeo]

Looks like a years supply of points..... What does 30 years supply of reluctor's look like and how often do you have to set the "gap"? They both work but some people still like to wind a watch...

 

[69hemibeep]

I now carry an extra condenser Iv'e had two leave me stranded. Acts as if the fuel pump is giving up and quits.

 

[toolmanmike]

I only drive my 66 a few thousand miles a year. A couple sets of points will last me a few years each. I bought them right and have plenty to sell. These also work in most 50's Hemi dual points.

 

[toolmanmike]

I now carry an extra condenser Iv'e had two leave me stranded. Acts as if the fuel pump is giving up and quits.

Condensers are also something to get from Halifaxhops. The new ones are very poor quality.

 

[toolmanmike]

Filko, now there's a name I haven't heard in 50+(yrs)!! Ok, I'm old.

I used to sell Filko back in the 70's. Top quality stuff.

 

[gary h]

I run Points in my Mopars, Was wondering how many average miles they may last under Normal driving ? Avoid Chinese ****. Me likes Filko and Blue Streak !

 

[oldbee]

10-15k? Theoretically if the condenser is "perfectly" matched to the system, the points won't wear out. Never happens though, Renton may know something of this; I heard it yrs ago from Delco-Remy instructor.

 

[toolmanmike]

I run Points in my Mopars, Was wondering how many average miles they may last under Normal driving ? Avoid Chinese ****. Me likes Filko and Blue Streak !

View attachment 963123 View attachment 963124 View attachment 963125

That's a holy grail if Filko right there.

 

[toolmanmike]

I run Points in my Mopars, Was wondering how many average miles they may last under Normal driving ? Avoid Chinese ****. Me likes Filko and Blue Streak !

View attachment 963123 View attachment 963124 View attachment 963125

Back in the day a tune up was done every 12 months or 12, 000 miles. A good rule for gravy mechanical work but not necessary. I probably threw away thousands of good condensers in my lifetime.
They are a poor quality component now days. I think I will just leave mine in until it fails. (which could be a long time from now)

 

[RJRENTON]

10-15k? Theoretically if the condenser is "perfectly" matched to the system, the points won't wear out. Never happens though, Renton may know something of this; I heard it yrs ago from Delco-Remy instructor.

Oldbee.......My comments re condensers...
Its a function of the coil's primary inductive reactance (~ the coil's ability to charge and discharge and the time it takes to do this) and the capacitor 's capacitive reactance (~ the capacitor's ability to absorb the coil's primary energy and the time it takes to do this when the points open then release the absorbed energy) without excessive arcing at the points. The voltage generated by the coil's collapsing primary field windings can be several hundred volts, at the same time the coil's secondary windings are producing the 20,000+ volts for the spark plugs......several hundred times a second. If the coil's reactance and the capacitor's reactance do not compliment each other, a weak or erratic spark can occur resulting in a misfire and lack of power produced.
This is the simplified explanation without factoring connection resistance, system voltage, dwell time (the degrees of angular rotation of the distributor shaft that the points are closed and primary current is flowing), and engine RPM. Hope this helps.....
BOB RENTON

 

[toolmanmike]

And yes, the points do wear out. he contacts erode from arcing and the rubbing blocks wear even with lubrication.

 

[oldbee]

That's kinda what RJ said, the main wear point is the rubbing block for the point. No "crater" on one side of the points. Thanks RJ. Jeff