K Member

[RT SE 440]

Been working on the K Member lately everything is painted and started assembling all the Nos ball joints upper & lower ,tie rod ends, idler arm,pitman arm new brake caliper kit new control arm bushes upper & lower strut rod bushes ,sway bar bushes, new brake hoses,wheel bearings and dust caps, power steering pump i'm very happy with the result considering i done it all myself and a first timer

 

[Timmayy]

Looks great.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Very nice...

 

[archangel]

I am also a first timer but not quite as far along as you. Hopefully mine will turn out as nice looking as yours.
Several questions:
Where did you find NOS parts? I could only find NOS Moog parts.
Did you dip your LCAs?
With respect to the LCA pivot shaft holes in the K-Member...did you clean out the paint (maybe you had masked them off?) or leave them painted before installing your LCAs?

 

[RT SE 440]

I am also a first timer but not quite as far along as you. Hopefully mine will turn out as nice looking as yours.
Several questions:
Where did you find NOS parts? I could only find NOS Moog parts.
Did you dip your LCAs?
With respect to the LCA pivot shaft holes in the K-Member...did you clean out the paint (maybe you had masked them off?) or leave them painted before installing your LCAs?

Hello i'm sure yours will turn out just as good if not better. I 2pac painted everything even the raw steel stuff is 2pk i had a special paint mixed to replicated raw metal.The nos parts were mostly found on evil bay or on this and dc forums but if you can't find nos mopar the older TRW stuff is probably just as good quality as i seem to remember reading somewhere TRW made the Mopar stuff anyway back in the day.I just found the correct idler arm as i have the incorrect one on K frame at the moment. As to the dipping no these were painted in 2pk paint too replicate the original dipping including the dripping affect. The pivot shafts were cleaned out and masked off so no paint would go in & i added a tiny amount of no cease paste in the shaft holes & also on the tie rod end tubes prior to assembling.Good luck with your project

 

[archangel]

Wow, I am impressed. Factory look but with great durability and rust prevention.
At the start I decided to replicate factory methods, with their inherent drawbacks, as much as practical for an amateur restorer (myself) but have rethought my decision more than once. Oh well, I have to remind myself that there are many paths to the final goal of getting my car back on the road.

 

[RT SE 440]

The Disc's are on with new bearings,bearing seals, backing plate seals, disc pads , grease caps,wheel studs & wheel nuts amazing how many parts go on these cars it's like the never ending story

 

[Cranky]

The Disc's are on with new bearings,bearing seals, backing plate seals, disc pads , grease caps,wheel studs & wheel nuts amazing how many parts go on these cars it's like the never ending story

View attachment 1477352

View attachment 1477353

If you think these cars are like a never ending story, do a new vehicle with the miles and miles and more miles of wiring lol

 

[Bluesky10]

RT SE 440, Your work looks great. I am assisting my son on a 74RR build, but all is just being painted black. I told him when he gets out of high school and a bit older, he can disassemble and start new and that this will preserve his car until then.
Here is the link here on FBBO. He started the project a year ago, but has stayed with it.

1973/74 Plymouth Road Runner preservation with Q&A Feedback

I am new to B-Bodies only, and just as new to a B-Body preservation. For background information, I am a mechanic by trade and have Chevy Muscle Car rebuild experience. However, when my wife asked me to consider my next project to be a 1974 Satellite like I had, and we dated in during high...

www.forbbodiesonly.com

If you all here have builds going on any B-body's or components or parts, please send me a link. We review other work to gain knowledge on assemblies and parts providers.

Thank you,