Tie rod length discrepancies

[Bbody4speed]

Getting my 63 Plymouth ready to go to alignment shop after upper and lower control arm and tie rod end replacement. The previous owner put the new control arm bushings in it, and said that he marked the cam bolts before disassembly. Trying to get the toe set close to where it needs to be. Steering wheel turns 6 turns lock to lock. With the weight on the suspension and the steering wheel centered, I set the drivers side straight in alignment with the back wheel then I adjusted the passenger side in until about 1/8" toe in was achieved. What I end up with is the drivers side tie rod assembly being about an inch longer than the passenger side. I can't seem to figure out why. I popped the center link off of the pitman arm just to confirm lock to lock. 6 turns exactly. Then I decide to pull the pitman arm off and I can't seem to get it off, using a pitman arm puller of course. It started stripping threads on the puller. (Perhaps not the best puller made) but should it be that hard? It seems like what is dictating drivers side tie rod end length is pitman arm position. Could some one have jammed it on there in the wrong position. Should I just not worry about it as long as it can be aligned?

 

[kiwigtx]

I don't think it matters if the tie rods protrude 'unevenly' as long as the end result is a good alignment job

It really comes down to how particular the guy doing the work is. Some guys don't take any notice, some don't care, some don't realise.

 

[Bbody4speed]

Is it possible the pitman arm has no keyway to match the steering box spline? I have a brand new one for a C body that I got from Craig at mobile parts that doesn't have one.

 

[kiwigtx]

Is it possible the pitman arm has no keyway to match the steering box spline? I have a brand new one for a C body that I got from Craig at mobile parts that doesn't have one.

I can't speak for the quality of the Pitman arm you describe, but a 'C' body unit....surely you need a B Body Pitman arm????

I know E body are different....the angle or the arm might be the issue. Did you get sent what you asked for?

 

[hunt2elk]

Is your steering wheel centered?

 

[Bbody4speed]

I can't speak for the quality of the Pitman arm you describe, but a 'C' body unit....surely you need a B Body Pitman arm????

I know E body are different....the angle or the arm might be the issue. Did you get sent what you asked for?

Thanks, I am restoring a 66 300 and have bought all of the front suspension. I was just looking at that for a reference on the spline. Not putting a new arm on the Plymouth. Just trying to figure out why tie rod assembly discrepancy.

 

[Bbody4speed]

Is your steering wheel centered?

Yes. 6 turns lock to lock with center link disconnected. Set at 3 turns to center.

 

[Jam72]

Getting my 63 Plymouth ready to go to alignment shop after upper and lower control arm and tie rod end replacement. The previous owner put the new control arm bushings in it, and said that he marked the cam bolts before disassembly. Trying to get the toe set close to where it needs to be. Steering wheel turns 6 turns lock to lock. With the weight on the suspension and the steering wheel centered, I set the drivers side straight in alignment with the back wheel then I adjusted the passenger side in until about 1/8" toe in was achieved. What I end up with is the drivers side tie rod assembly being about an inch longer than the passenger side. I can't seem to figure out why. I popped the center link off of the pitman arm just to confirm lock to lock. 6 turns exactly. Then I decide to pull the pitman arm off and I can't seem to get it off, using a pitman arm puller of course. It started stripping threads on the puller. (Perhaps not the best puller made) but should it be that hard? It seems like what is dictating drivers side tie rod end length is pitman arm position. Could some one have jammed it on there in the wrong position. Should I just not worry about it as long as it can be aligned?

I don't believe there is any law or spec saying that tie rods must be assembled to equal lengths. Once you set them for proper toe, (assuming camber & caster is confirmed correct) then you may have to readjust them in opposite directions to centre the steering wheel if it is not already centred. If in doubt take it in for an alignment, they will set it right.

 

[steve340]

Has it got an oddball part in there somewhere?
In theory the length of the rods from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end should be the same at any given toe in setting.
All 4 tie rod ends should have approximately the same amount of thread protruding from the adjuster turnbuckle.

 

[kiwigtx]

All 4 tie rod ends should have approximately the same amount of thread protruding from the adjuster turnbuckle.

That equality is totally down to the guy setting up the alignment on the car. If they don't take any care about what they're doing, the thread lengths can easily differ....much like if they don't centre the steering wheel and lock it down before any alignment changes are made.

I'm sure that different brands of tie rod ends have slightly different length of thread....that is just down to how they are manufactured - tolerances don't figure highly in some factories.

 

[steve340]

You are right - nobody who has had 5 minutes of training and has 12 minutes to align a customers car is not going to give a **** about doing it right.

 

[kiwigtx]

You are right - nobody who has had 5 minutes of training and has 12 minutes to align a customers car is not going to give a **** about doing it right.

 

[retractable]

I just had my 64 Belvedere aliened and the right side tie rod is almost all the way in and the left side has a number of threads showing. this is with the steering wheel centered.
This car is mostly original and with no damage. 84000 miles.

 

[Bbody4speed]

I just had my 64 Belvedere aliened and the right side tie rod is almost all the way in and the left side has a number of threads showing. this is with the steering wheel centered.
This car is mostly original and with no damage. 84000 miles.

Mine is going in for alignment. I have the same thing as you, almost all the way in on the right and threads showing on the left. About 3/4 of an inch difference in length. Maybe once camber and caster are adjusted it will be more equal

 

[toolmanmike]

Get it close and drive it slowly to get it aligned or just have it towed if you can't zero it close enough to drive a mile or to. The alignment shop will straighten it out if it is off.

 

[Kern Dog]

Yes. 6 turns lock to lock with center link disconnected. Set at 3 turns to center.

You must have manual steering. I’ve never seen a power steering car have more than 3 3/4 turns full left to right.

Has it got an oddball part in there somewhere?
In theory the length of the rods from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end should be the same at any given toe in setting.
All 4 tie rod ends should have approximately the same amount of thread protruding from the adjuster turnbuckle.

False. I’ve owned several and noticed that many are longer on one side.

I just had my 64 Belvedere aliened and the right side tie rod is almost all the way in and the left side has a number of threads showing. this is with the steering wheel centered.
This car is mostly original and with no damage. 84000 miles.

FACT.
It has nothing to do with being “hacked”. These cars have wide tolerances as built. Add in years of service and you just work with what you have. If you have equal turns from center to lock, the length of the tie rod sleeves and ends is irrelevant.