• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

keep coilovers and panard bars or change out to caltrac system please help me choose

Bobo

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:53 AM
Joined
Jun 20, 2014
Messages
427
Reaction score
287
Location
Georgia
what started this whole idea is both rear tires are wearing funny on the 3 rows of inside tread i get the dodge on jack stands and start looking and measuring and thinking then i notice cracked welds where the ladder bar is welded to the axel housing i take the car to highly rated local hot rod shop ricks rods in west palm bch fla he wants to remove my 83/4 put it in a jig to see if its bent and or repair it cut off all the brackets install super stock springs and caltrac system wants 2 k in labor says a weeks worth of time plus parts grand total around 4 k to get it done......mopar GURU please tell me what i should do ....the car is for local cruise in and very little track time i hope to make 650-700 hp one day is a a833 4 speed 451 crappy heads and intake at this time I REALLY THOUGH THE REAR SET UP IN THE CAR WAS THE ONLY PART I WOULD NOW HAVE TROUBLE WITH but here i am image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg:angryfire:
 
If its your plan too make that much steam with the 4spd the 8 3/4 won't live long. At the track with good hook, even with good parts in it your on borrowed time. But on the street your just going too blow the tires out...


If it were I, I would scrounge a Dana 60 out of a truck lop off the ends weld your current ends on and reuse your axels keeping the ladder bar set up.....


Or option #2 you could step up and go 4 link and gain a lot of room for some added tire clearance.... This would be a good time too rob the disk brakes off a mustang for the rear end as well.
 
When a suspension expert checks in could they please explain the adjustable lower link on the ladder bar. I don't see how that works correctly, but I'm no suspension guy either.
 
If it were me

I'd fix what's wrong with the current set-up,
replace the heim joints too while your at it

A Dana-60 or Strange S-60 would be ideal for the amount of power your planning on, but the 8-3/4 can work for a while too, tell you can step up & spend the extra $2,500+ easily on a Dana or S-60 properly set-up, even more $$$ if you can't do the installation & fab work yourself, probably double the figure in total cost like easily $5k & if you change from a ladder bar I'd go with a 4 link & not go backwards to a leaf spring set-up & Caltracs, JMO...

by the way Caltracs aren't recommended with S/S springs,
use one or the other, but not both if you go in that direction...

good luck & happy Moparing

the adjustment on the bottom of the ladders is to add preload
or pinion angle to the current bar setting, R-side to L-side
it will help with pulling/body lean to one side on hard launches/veering or
traction issues, it's for fine tuning, along with the front positioning of the bars,
for a specific use or a specific track or specific condition,
fine tuning each side preload/pinion angle etc.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top