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LCA strut bushing retaining washer orientation

dadsbee

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When I did my PST suspension kit a couple years back on the Bee, the assembly diagram showed the inner washer backwards to the FSM's instructions. I assumed someone just drew it backwards by mistake and installed things per the FSM. Now I'm into this Dart and both the inner and outer retaining washers are installed backwards with regard to the FSM. Why on earth and what purpose does this serve??? Seems *** backwards to me, instead of retaining the rubber bushings it lets them squash outwards..

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Agreed, just look at the distance from the cotterpin to the nut.
 
Should be a split pin and they're always a fair way off the retaining washer... but why the washers backwards. Maybe James can shed some light on this @PST ..
 
Look *** backward to me. My Satellite was the opposite of that.
adart.JPG
 
Yep, I know what the FSM shows, but PST shows the inner one backwards in THEIR installation instructions and this car has both backwards... and I've seen others over on A bodies doing the same thing..

At least the OE dart bushing is one piece and you can change them without pulling torsion bars and LCA!
 
Every original cup washer I have ever removed from the strut rod, has
the cup washer fitting over the rubber bushing, cup side of washer faces
towards K-frame, just like Fran shows in the FSM.
 
If your running OE style bushings the washers go the way you expect them to go, If your running MOOG improved design steel lined bushings they go the opposite way...

Screen Shot 2020-12-05 at 6.28.32 PM.png
 
I have heard of this before on other pieces of equipment and it was explained as such:
Washers effect the performance of the bushing and are commonly seen in two different styles. Cupped washers will provide high rebound, more resistance, and hold the bushing's shape. Flat washers (or backward cupped washers) will allow the bushing to be more forgiving.
 
The moog improved versions do have the washer backwards but I recall the washer being fused to the rubberbushing, so there was no choice. The Moogs I have done do not look crushed down like yours.
 
This has been discussed before, but I can't remember the results.
On my '70 Charger, it had the washers installed like yours, and was marked "cup side faces out". I would leave it that way.
The strut rod pivots with the control arm, and I could see how it might pinch the bushing when the car is on jacks if installed cup side in.
 
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I think pinching, binding is the issue...newer higher durometer material seems to bind at full travel, washer could make it worse. I would leave them alone. I noticed when my superbird was mounted by the pinch welds on a frame machine with the rearend squared, all stock style replacement, and urethane bushings put the lower control arms 1/4" too far back...equated to 2 degrees caster, the wrong way. My original bushings were near perfect for thickness, new and urethane were too thick, what you have in there looks squished enough to be about perfect. I am going to run cut down urethane, with cut sleeves, and stock washers, to get that caster at 4 degrees, equal both sides, hold alignment, and look almost stock. Your results my vary, funny stuff happens with a frame machine and plotted points.
 
Thanks all ! Those bushings won't be staying, so I'll be following what ever PST gives as directions with their Super kit this round. Entire K frame / engine / trans / rear axle assembly is coming out of this thing this week. Just spent 4 hours ordering a couple grand worth of parts to cover the majority of the suspension components and then some. Here I go again... lol
 
Yep, I know what the FSM shows, but PST shows the inner one backwards in THEIR installation instructions and this car has both backwards... and I've seen others over on A bodies doing the same thing..

At least the OE dart bushing is one piece and you can change them without pulling torsion bars and LCA!
I had the very same question when I installed some PST bushings. So I called PST and asked them about the installation instructions. The guy on the phone thought it was a mistake, but then I also got the feeling he didn't really know and was just kind of guessing.
 
Every 69 B-body i ever took apart in the 70's had the cup in.
 
To me the way the cup is put on reduces the cushining of the rubber. I'd check the welds on the K member where the plate is welded on. Broke that plate off my 68 Dart, of course the driver brutalized the car. I think of selling my Satellite and buying car that's really nice, but then you find it has a few warts anyway.
 
All coming apart Fran..hope to have the K frame on the floor this week. Need to drop the rear axle assembly first, so I can then drop the damn exhaust in one piece, as it's all welded together header flanges back. Then I can drop the K frame and everything sitting on it!
 
Factory go on with cups toward the bushing. Some aftermarket and poly are cup out. The set I installed from Mancini have stamped into the non cupped face "this side toward bushing."
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