LED Headlight conversion what to use

[Oldgearhead]

I am restoring a 1970 RR convertible 383 4 Speed car. I have been researching what is available in the LED category and have found many. Can someone share their experiences with these and what they are using? Thanks!

 

[dfrazz]

There are multiple threads on this topic, have you tried search?

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

My stepdads friend tried some from Summit but they unfortunately did not work out

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

@Triplegreen500 I am sure can add to this because he recently did an LED upgrade

 

[71RRHI]

Holley retro brights, expensive, but they work, and fit with no modifications to the bucket or wiring.

 

[twecomm]

I second the opinion on Holley Retrobrights. Bought em for my 66 Charger. Plug n Play, no modification electrically or mechanically. You can also pick what color temperature you prefer. They work great, not cheap but you get what you pay for..

 

[Aron Gleason]

Dapper Lighting is a good company to go with

 

[Sinitro]

If U are seriously considering upgrading to LED headlights below are a few thoughts:
1. Unlike the OE incadescent headlights, the brightness of LED headlights is more
dependent on current rather than voltage so modifying the wiring and adding relays is not required.
The LED headlight current draw is about 25% of the OE incadescents.
2. For mounting LED headlights in our legacy Mopars, depending on brand check carefully their depth.
Many require modifying the buckets for clearance, note the Holley retro-brights drop rite in no mods required.
3. Upgrading to LEDs headlights is strongly recommended, they have a wider, brighter dispersion plus being long-life.

Just my $0.02..

 

[Triplegreen500]

I installed Hella (NOT Holley - Hella is SIGNIFICANTLY less expensive...like, you can get them for $165 a PAIR) Vision Plus sealed beam H4 conversion lamps in my Charger (and 3 of my motorcycles...).

They make a hi/lo combo unit, as well as a high-beam-only unit for those of us with 4 lights. No modifications to the mounting bucket are required. They make them in 5.75", 7", 4x6" rectangle and 5x7 rectangle. Lenses are GLASS, and they are extremely well made, both in durability and in optics/beam spread.

All of them take a standard H4 bulb. You can use halogen; you can use HID; you can use LED - whatever you want, as long as it is H4 style/shape.

I installed H4 35w HID hi/low beams in 4300k color temp (warm white) in the outer hi/lo housings, and H4 LED high beams in 3000k (amber) in the inner hi-only housings - LEDs for instant-on switching when I need high beams. The HID kit I got came with its own relay and harness (they draw about the same as an incandescent when they're warming up, but once they've warmed up - figure 10-15 seconds - they have minimal current draw); the LED's don't require one. I used the factory socket for one high beam as the trigger for the whole setup, to trigger the relay for the lows and turn on the highs. No cutting harnesses, completely reversible if a future owner "has to have concours-correct".

Me, I prefer to see the deer far enough in advance, to avoid hitting them.

 

[Crackedback]

Retros are not 25% of OE draw. They draw maybe 25% less (certain conditions), according to tested results from 72RRGTX who is independent of the manufacturer sale brochure stuff.

They draw roughly the same as an OE 4 headlight system and only marginally less than a sealed beam halogen set up. Get closer to 14 volts to the lights, amp load is reduced.

Bright light is not necessarily good light.

Pick your parts, pay your money.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

As @dfrazz said, there are multiple threads on this topic. Do a search. I don’t recommend LED for the headlights, I recommend @Crackedback plug and play wiring harness with voltage regulators. Cheaper than LEDs, and works just as good if not better. Plus it retains all factory appearances to the car. I love mine. Others that have it will chime in too.

 

[Triplegreen500]

Bright light is not necessarily good light.

As a stage and concert lighting designer...I agree. Hence my comment about good optics on the Hellas. The HID/LED sources I use are brighter, and the Hella optics make sure to put it in the right place downrange. The spread is even, it doesn't blind oncoming drivers, and the spill to the sides lights the shoulders and woods and road signs quite well. They use "E-code" lighting specs, which are European specs (make sure to get "left dip" for use in the USA!) and are much more effective than US DOT junk.

 

[F4R/T]

Get DOT approved.. don’t be the GUY that blinds everyone. Also make sure the are correctly aimed in. Having an astigmatism changes how bad LED lights are for oncoming divers and if a driver has an accident and states you blinded them it will turn to you, you will be liable. I like better lights too but as a DOT inspector for years there are reasons.

 

[Triplegreen500]

DOT has adopted many of the E code specs, notably the hard cutoff at the top of the beam.

My E-code lights are less "in my eyes" than my DOT cars lights, sitting side by side in the garage and me in the driveway facing them.

Yes...I do that. Again - production lighting designer. I pay attention to these things, and wholeheartedly endorse the e-code lights - as long as they're properly aimed.

 

[Sinitro]

A couple of technical points when comparing competitive headlight products...
For the supplied chart the indicated specs for the Holley retro-brights are on the higher side vs actual measurements by about 20%.
Also note that the Holley retro-brights are constructed of poly-carbonate not glass like the Hella Vision bulbs. Also note the Hella Vision bulbs are halogen and have
a significantly shorter projected life whereas the Holley retro-brights projected life is >20K hours.
Closing thoughts...
Today the consumer has a broad choice of headlights, and one should do their homework before deciding what best fits their applications including budget.

Just my $0.02...