LED Headlight conversion what to use

[Mopar Hunter]

The Holley, when it fails...you buy a complete unit. Hella? Put in a new bulb.

You can buy replacement LEDs for the Holley’s.

 

[Sinitro]

The hellas come with an H4 incandescent bulb. You can (and I did) change it for ANY H4 style light. I run HID in my low/hi units, and LED in my high beams.

The Holley, when it fails...you buy a complete unit. Hella? Put in a new bulb.

Incorrect..
Holley has replacement LED elements available..

https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/led_lighting/led_headlights/led_bulbs/parts/LFRB20

Just my $0.02...

 

[Triplegreen500]

That's a Holley H4 LED bulb...is that what the Holley light assemblies use? I was under the impression they were sealed units.

 

[Sinitro]

That's a Holley H4 LED bulb...is that what the Holley light assemblies use? I was under the impression they were sealed units.

No...
It is a plug-in module, easy to swap out also note these are available through Summit, Classic Industries and even Amazon..

Just my $0.02..

 

[Triplegreen500]

No...
It is a plug-in module, easy to swap out also note these are available through Summit, Classic Industries and even Amazon..

Just my $0.02..

Yes, it plugs into the vehicle wiring harness.

I still think that is Holley's version of an "LED H4 bulb", to use in any H4 housing. I don't see anywhere on Holley's site where a) the RetroBright units have removable bulbs, or b) where the bulb you show fits the RetroBright housings. It still looks to me like the RetroBright assemblies are one sealed unit...maybe someone who has them, can check and verify one way or the other.

But I'm still partial to the glass-lens Hellas...and their MUCH lower price....

 

[Mopar Hunter]

It still looks to me like the RetroBright assemblies are one sealed unit...maybe someone who has them, can check and verify one way or the other.

 

[Triplegreen500]

View attachment 1937711

Got it.

I stand corrected, thank you.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Got it.

I stand corrected, thank you.

No problem, the Holley’s will withstand a hit by a rock over a regular glass headlight.

 

[Sinitro]

Yes, it plugs into the vehicle wiring harness.

I still think that is Holley's version of an "LED H4 bulb", to use in any H4 housing. I don't see anywhere on Holley's site where a) the RetroBright units have removable bulbs, or b) where the bulb you show fits the RetroBright housings. It still looks to me like the RetroBright assemblies are one sealed unit...maybe someone who has them, can check and verify one way or the other.

But I'm still partial to the glass-lens Hellas...and their MUCH lower price....

Note that Holley sells the housing by itself without the LED module..
https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/led_lighting/retrobright/parts/LFRB195

As posted previously...
The consumer has multiple headlight options..
Review each option then decide what is the best to meet their expectations.
If one prefers the lower cost Hella halogen, with its glass bulb, 50% higher current demand and shorter service life..
Then go for it...
For me, being in the biz my labor costs are high and I don't like to change out parts frequently.
As pappy always said, "U can pay me now or pay me later.."
I rather do the job just once and install the more reliable, higher cost part 1st.
But thats just me...
If the consumer does the labor install themselves then go that route, choice is up to each individual..

Just my $0.02...

 

[Triplegreen500]

50% higher current demand and shorter service life..

again...change to an LED or HID bulb when you install, and both your current draw and your service life issues are addressed. 35w H4 HID, $35 a pair; H4 LED, anywhere from $20each and up.

I've run the Hellas in my motorcycles for nearly a decade now, with 35w HID lamps, and zero issues - and that's on a motorcycle charging system.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

A couple of technical points when comparing competitive headlight products...
For the supplied chart the indicated specs for the Holley retro-brights are on the higher side vs actual measurements by about 20%.

Just my $0.02...

The numbers on that chart mentioned are carefully measured numbers using the same test equipment for all bulb types listed. They are the actual numbers for both sets Retrobrights I own. The stock headlight wiring and related components were barley able to handle the OE sealed beams without significant voltage drop when they were new. 50-years on, there is no reason not to run relays, any bulb type will benefit from minimal voltage drop and reduced current stress for the stock wiring/components.

 

[Sinitro]

The numbers on that chart mentioned are carefully measured numbers using the same equipment for all bulb types listed. The are the actual numbers for both sets Retrobrights I own. The stock headlight wiring and related components were barley able to handle the OE sealed beams without significant voltage drop when they were new. 50-years on, there is no reason not to run relays, any bulb type will benefit from minimal voltage drop and reduced current stress for the stock wiring/components.
View attachment 1937851

We did measure the Holley LFRB 145s using a precision Keithley/Tektronix DMM6500...
And found @ 12.5 Volts they required just under 2 amps which equates to about 25W the published Holley spec not the 27W the chart indicates. Note that depending upon what brand/model volt/amp meter was used, certain lower cost measuring volt/amp meters have a tolerance of +/- 5%. Note that I do agree using the Mopar OE factory headlight wiring for 15' of 12AWG there is significant voltage loss of up to 2V. And here a closer placed relay system can/will minimize any significant voltage loss. So if the headlght system is using an OE sealed beam or halogen bulb there will be a significant, visible brightness loss, if a Mopar OE wiring system is used. But as I posted previously, in my personal experience for the Holley LEDs retro-brights for brightness output they are less sensitive to voltage changes but more dependent upon current availability. My personal opinion remains the same, the Holley retro-brights are an expensive but quality, easy to install alternative and deliver a significant, improved brightness/dispersion output compared to OE factory sealed beam and other branded LED headlight solutions without having to add relays and make other wiring mods.

Just my $0.02...

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

We did measure the Holley LFRB 145s using a precision Keithley/Tektronix DMM6500...
And found @ 12.5 Volts they required just under 2 amps which equates to about 25W the published Holley spec not the 27W the chart indicates. Note that depending upon what brand/model volt/amp meter was used, certain lower cost measuring volt/amp meters have a tolerance of +/- 5%. Note that I do agree using the Mopar OE factory headlight wiring for 15' of 12AWG there is significant voltage loss of up to 2V. And here a closer placed relay system can/will minimize any significant voltage loss. So if the headlght system is using an OE sealed beam or halogen bulb there will be a significant, visible brightness loss, if a Mopar OE wiring system is used. But as I posted previously, in my personal experience for the Holley LEDs retro-brights for brightness output they are less sensitive to voltage changes but more dependent upon current availability. My personal opinion remains the same, the Holley retro-brights are an expensive but quality, easy to install alternative and deliver a significant, improved brightness/dispersion output compared to OE factory sealed beam and other branded LED headlight solutions without having to add relays and make other wiring mods.

Just my $0.02...

All numbers listed were taken with the same test equipment here at the same time and at 13.5 volts, rounded to a tenth of a volt or so, the tolerances between different test equipment doesn’t play a role in this comparison. OE stock 12AWG headlight wiring? What year/platform is that? Most stock headlight wiring from this time period is 16AWG at best, 18AWG for a-bodies. A full 2+ volt drop is not uncommon through stock headlight wiring and related components while running stock like sealed beams these days.

 

[Crackedback]

Note that I do agree using the Mopar OE factory headlight wiring for 15' of 12AWG there is significant voltage loss of up to 2V.

Where is there 12ga wiring in the headlight circuit of any A/B/E body car?

B/E got 16ga at best IIRC. bean counters!

 

[Don selleck]

Where is there 12ga wiring in the headlight circuit of any A/B/E body car?

B/E got 16ga at best IIRC. bean counters!

do you still make and sell headlight relay kits? I have a Cuda I'm rewiring with new stock harness, would like to correct the front lighting harness issues.

 

[Sinitro]

All numbers listed were taken with the same equipment here at the same time and at 13.5 volts, rounded to a tenth of a volt or so, the tolerances between different test equipment doesn’t play a role in this comparison. OE stock 12AWG headlight wiring? What year/platform is that? Most stock headlight wiring from this time period is 16AWG at best, 18AWG for a-bodies. A full 2+ volt drop is not uncommon through stock headlight wiring and related components while running stock like sealed beams these days.

There are major spec tolerances differences in testing equipments..
The mentioned Keithley/Tektronix DMM6500 is a lab precision instrument selling for $1750, a $125 Fluke multi-meter is like comparing
a 426 Hemi to a 225 6 cylinder... The Fluke tolerance window is +/-5% equaling a 10% window, compared to 0.0025% for the Keithley/Tektronix DMM6500, a tolerance difference of >4000 times. Regarding wire AWG, this is not the only key point its length and amount of voltage drop and current draw over its run, note that we have measured up to a 3.65V drop from end-to-end with a typical Mopar legacy OE system. Note that over the years Chrysler continued to upgrade their wire systems to a larger AWG as the alternator outputs increased from 40 amps up to 120 amps as done in the early 70s for certain models and applications. Besides the AWG spec, note that the OE Mopar wire run also has multiple connectors including the bulkhead and switch contacts throughout its run all of these contribute significantly to its significant voltage drop that becomes more crucial as the current increases. This significant voltage drop is why I agree and support... If someone is running OE sealed beam headlights, there will be a major, visible brightness increase by adding relays close to the headlights bypassing the longer, inefficient wire runs originally used in any year for our mopar legacy systems just like they do in present day vehicles.

Just my $0.02...

 

[Crackedback]

do you still make and sell headlight relay kits? I have a Cuda I'm rewiring with new stock harness, would like to correct the front lighting harness issues.

Sent you a PM and yes I still build them.